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New to me 96 GTX

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Looking at your pictures, I cant seem to see the rubber boot that attaches to the PTO from the drive shaft, to me it looks like it is missing. If it is there great, if not you should install one.

235.jpg


This is the boot that should be attached to the PTO
236.jpg
 
Hey all, finally got a chance to take this ski to the lake and had an issue.
When i gave it full throttle it launched hard and revved to 6 or 7 thousand rpms then bogged down to 3500 and stayed there.
Tried over and over with the same result. Thought maybe old gas from sitting or clog in the carbs so i kept trying to get the new gas through the lines. After playing with it a little while i was able to get it up to 4500 rpms but soon after it stalled and wouldn't start. After a while it did start so i took it directly back to the landing. The battery seams a little weak but i assumed once running it should not be an issue. Other then the obvious of replacing the plugs where should i look next.
 
Sounds like a fuel issue. Have the grey fuel lines been replaced, carbs cleaned/rebuilt and fuel selector cleaned?
 
Sounds like a fuel issue. Have the grey fuel lines been replaced, carbs cleaned/rebuilt and fuel selector cleaned?

I have not done anything to it yet, figured i would take it for a test run 1st.
It didn't feel like a fuel issue but i could be wrong. I will try that 1st as it needs to be done anyway to eliminate future issues.
Anything else that could cause this? Rave Valves? Spark or control box?
Just trying to get all the info i can so i can dive in and get it done.
Thanks everyone for all the past and future i have got on this forum.
 
Does it have the grey lines? If so, they definitely need to be changed. Yes, you should check and clean the RAVE's is the are dirty.
 
Yes it has the factory lines.
Any idea what size and how many feet of rubber line i need to replace it all?
Its to dark outside to measure it and i would like to pick it up tomorrow so i can work on replacing it when i get home from work.
 
Yes it has the factory lines.
Any idea what size and how many feet of rubber line i need to replace it all?
Its to dark outside to measure it and i would like to pick it up tomorrow so i can work on replacing it when i get home from work.


1/4" automotive lines, about 20 feet. Get new stainless clamps too.
 
Buy a 25ft roll of it if all your lines are 1/4 in or 6mm which is what it shows on the parts website. You will need to pull the carbs and clean them.
 
If you have two sizes it will be 14 inch and 5/16 inch. 15 foot of each will cover it. Buy stainless steel clamps.

If only one size it is 1/4 inch and a roll of 25 ft is enough.
 
I did my fuel line s a couple yrs ago on my 96 GTX. it took about 23 feet including the vent lines, all 1/4 inch size. I would also add an in-line fuel filter....a Fram G-2 in semi clear yellow.

easiest way is to remove the carbs to get to all the carb lines and to make sure the clamps are tight.
 
Thanks Everyone.
I will pick up the line & clamps today and start on it tonight.
 
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while the carbs are on... i'd go ahead and clean the engine, and hull, its disgusting and must smell like azz.

So i started to change the lines but due to the statement above being true i spent over an hour just cleaning everything.
Didn't get anything done, tomorrows another day.
1 of the fuel lines was changed to rubber, the one from the filter to the tank. Why would someone be so lazy, knowing there is an issue only change 1 small part of the system.
Found a spring in the hull along with a bunch of misc fasteners. No way this was a full rebuild but it is obvious it was broke down to some degree.

IMAG0743_zps3a8c7183.jpg


The strong degreaser and pressure washer did a number on the paint but everything else sure looks better.

IMAG0744_zpsb1db276f.jpg


IMAG0745_zpseaf3acd2.jpg
 
Make sure you clean out the fuel selector valve and the internal carburetor filters before you put everything back together. If it was me I would also check Pop-Off Pressure on carburetors before reinstalling on engine.
Nothing worse then finding out you still have fuel issue and now have to take it all off again, just to find out that carburetors need rebuilding.
By the way, It's a great ski. My family love's it. In the words of LouDoo its the Family Truckster!!
 
Im looking forward to getting it running well and having some fun. I paid $1200 for it so i expected to have some bugs to work out..
I am going to clean everything when i change the lines including making sure the vents are all working, since a couple of the lines are off i assume there was an issue and they took the easy way out. I am good with everything on the carbs except the pop off pressure, i just don't get it. I am the kind of person that if i see it done once i can do it but just reading how baffles me.
 
There is a battery vent line from the front to the battery area that is just for looks (not really, most everyone uses an AGM sealed battery so you won't need this vent). And again, as someone pointed out, the boot covering the pto to driveshaft greased splines is missing. You will want to order this, install and then grease.
 
There is a battery vent line from the front to the battery area that is just for looks (not really, most everyone uses an AGM sealed battery so you won't need this vent). And again, as someone pointed out, the boot covering the pto to driveshaft greased splines is missing. You will want to order this, install and then grease.

replacing the PTO boot is going to require removal of the jet pump, so probably go ahead and start shopping pump rebuild stuff, "while you're in there"

ship fitters disease is a bitch.
 
Finally got a chance to work on it today.
Yep the gray lines had struck again. Internal filters were clogged, inlet tubes were full of gum.
Took everything apart and cleaned it, 2 cans of carb cleaner later they look like new. While working on the ski i found plenty of surprises.
The spring i found in the hull was for the RAVE valve, they must have dropped it while cleaning them and put in some smaller spring they had laying around. The fuel selector was messed up so they just bypassed it. I didn't hook it back up yet since the knob is busted. I will get a new knob, clean then hook it back up. The RAVE valves were really clean but one was put back on without a gasket, they used permatex and put so much it was completely clogging the side vent hole. I cut new gaskets, reinstalled and used the proper spring this time. Hopefully i can make it to the lake tomorrow and see if it made any difference.

Here is the best picture i could get of the clogged fuel inlets.

IMAG0746_zps62285d43.jpg
 
Got it to the lake today, only went out for a short time to test it but it appears to be better.
When i first had issues it would rev to 6000 or 7000 RPM the bog down. Now it launches and runs fine but only gets up to about 5000 rpm.
Does that still sound like a fuel issue or something else?
I did not change the plugs yet but i can't see that making it not rev up.
Any ideas?
 
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