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The X4 Thread

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I finally got the Steering arm off the UMI stem but now I can't for the life of me get the stem out. It moves about a 1/8" and won't budge. I torched it over and over and used a pry bar all along the top. I'm just destroying this thing at this point. Any ideas? I'm thinking I need to put a come along on it and winch it out but I don't have anything high enough that I can put tension on.
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Dude, unbolt the top face plate! The 4 flat head screws go thru the cover fascia and the under bracket

*EDIT Forgot to put remove the top of the stem too
 
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You need a brass or lead hammer if you are trying to beat the shaft out

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The top two bolts are seized so I can't take the top off the stem. And of course the part where the bars mount is too fat to pass thru the opening in the hull


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Someone tried taking it apart before and rounded them out. I'll cut slots in them and add heat tomorrow night. Thanks

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Don't go nuts with the heat, you'll F the aluminum up. Just saw zall the assembly off. Meaning cut the deck

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racerxxx said:
Don't go nuts with the heat, you'll F the aluminum up. Just saw zall the assembly off. Meaning cut the deck

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Click to expand...

I had the saw in hand last week haha. Ive already started rebuilding it though and really wanted to sell it off this spring as a whole. I'm not going to beat on the UMI too much more though. I'll cut the hull before I damage it more than I can smooth out
 
WhiskeyD said:
I had the saw in hand last week haha. Ive already started rebuilding it though and really wanted to sell it off this spring as a whole. I'm not going to beat on the UMI too much more though. I'll cut the hull before I damage it more than I can smooth out
Click to expand...
The umi is worth more than the 96 hull. I hope you didn't pay too much for it

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I know what ski it is I made him an offer but he didn't know wanted to think about it ect

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Trick is heating outer aluminum housing . Let it expand. Cold ice rag on center shaft and bearing.

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It sounds to me like he is saying that the shaft is frozen in the bearings so heating the aluminum will not help. All I can suggest is putting a nut or two on the M10x1.5, to protect it and hit it with a large brass hammer to force it out of the bearings.
Here are a couple pics of the parts that I'm working on for the UMI X4 & HX steering systems. I'm only prototyping right now. Sorry for the bad picture quality. The triangle piece is a gusset to resolve the cracking issue. Picture0112160743_1.jpgPicture0114160628_1.jpg
 
critracer said:
It sounds to me like he is saying that the shaft is frozen in the bearings so heating the aluminum will not help. All I can suggest is putting a nut or two on the M10x1.5, to protect it and hit it with a large brass hammer to force it out of the bearings.
Here are a couple pics of the parts that I'm working on for the UMI X4 & HX steering systems. I'm only prototyping right now. Sorry for the bad picture quality. The triangle piece is a gusset to resolve the cracking issue. View attachment 33735View attachment 33736
Click to expand...

Shoot I told a member yesterday that I had no idea where he would find a steering arm. It's great to see them actually getting made, the parts look great.
 
Seadoodoc said:
Trick is heating outer aluminum housing . Let it expand. Cold ice rag on center shaft and bearing.

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Click to expand...

Yeah that what I was thinking, expand the outside so it will slide out but it didn't work as planned.

critracer said:
It sounds to me like he is saying that the shaft is frozen in the bearings so heating the aluminum will not help. All I can suggest is putting a nut or two on the M10x1.5, to protect it and hit it with a large brass hammer to force it out of the bearings.
Here are a couple pics of the parts that I'm working on for the UMI X4 & HX steering systems. I'm only prototyping right now. Sorry for the bad picture quality. The triangle piece is a gusset to resolve the cracking issue. View attachment 33735View attachment 33736
Click to expand...

Thats exactly what is happening. I didn't realize these damn bearings were so tough! Good idea on put a nut on the end to protect the threads. Wish I would have thought of that before hitting it the other night
 
Yeah at this point it's mushroomed to where the nut is not gonna want to go back on. You can file it down a bit and use a thread die to clean the threads up. If you can get a nut on it park it flush with the end of the threads. I guess you can pound it out and do that work on a bench also.

Like Minne said when the threads are total toast you can cut them off then drill up the shaft. From there you can tap that hole with threads and use a stainless bolt with washer to retain the steering arm.

Brian Baldwin is a name that comes up a lot in old X4 racing threads. My zebra ski was tuned by him back in the day and I've left the handling how it was cause it's perfect. The other racers had a lot of respect for him.
 
Checked on 951x4 winter hibernation today. " if its cold out side, they are cold" (:uploadfromtaptalk1453097442014.jpguploadfromtaptalk1453097458837.jpguploadfromtaptalk1453097480607.jpg some dicarded race boats, hx hull and Xpl hull mold rotting away out back!

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glsmohio said:
On that build what did you paint the inside of the hull with?
Click to expand...
Home Depot garage floor epoxy paint. Rolled in and used paint brush. Easy on touch up. I give it a B + on durabilty. Project Frankestein XPL 4 tec I paid a guy $100 to roll in gel coat and splatter speckle paint. Its bullet proof. uploadfromtaptalk1453100721708.jpg

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Minnetonka4me said:
I would highly recommend SS bolts and nuts instead of rivets. Also trim off the bottom of the trim and bumper.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply Nick.

I trimmed the bottom lip off the bumper already and just need to do the front sections on the rails before I put them on. I have all the rub rails off to buff the hull. It would be expensive to use all SS bolts and nuts for the entire rails unless its that much better I would rather use rivets for that. Using SS bolts and nuts on the front where splash guard and bumper mount, Im ok with that.

Does that sound like a reasonable plan?

Also I found a post by RacerXXX with these for the rub rails. These are probably the right ones to use for that right? They are a little shorter length than what I linked earlier.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#97447a065/=10qrrd4
 
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