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The Seadoo Engine Shop (SES) - Review

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I have the engine. USPS delivered it today. So the Post Office will deliver Seadoo engines. Wife just signed for it. I will look at this evening. Like a kid on Christmas morning..


Yeah, my mom has "forgot" about Christmas presents before. LOL, couldn't resist. Good luck with the install!
 
OK, I read all of the posts in that thread and the majority were positive comments!!! If I ever need a second rebuild, without hesitation it will go back to Tom. Even the OP has stated in this thread he may use him again in the future. As for me, I am still enjoying my rebuild that for the price no one else could come anywhere close to and was on time for delivery. Yes, as pointed out I did document my experience and maybe he was aware of my thread.... or maybe not. BUT, what about the other members here who have had similar experiences. But one thing is clear to me, the haters of SES will keep on hating!

I'm with you. I had a great experience with Tom and SES, with respect to turn around and support. Unfortunately, after barely getting it broken in, I had to put fun on hold for the better part of two years and am just now getting back to ironing out the carb issue (presumably). It ran great at start-up, but then after shutting it off, it would not start until it cooled down again. When I had the engine rebuilt, I cleaned the carb but did not replace parts using a kit. This time I am rebuilding it properly - kit, needle, seat, pop off tester.... Hopefully the carb is the issue since the engine warranty ran out while it sat on the trailer :(
 
If the engine was good when you left it 2 year or seasons should be good. Squirt some oil down the cylinders and spin it by hand. If it moves good you will be fine. Sounds like bad needle and seat. Make sure to get them also.
 
If the engine was good when you left it 2 year or seasons should be good. Squirt some oil down the cylinders and spin it by hand. If it moves good you will be fine. Sounds like bad needle and seat. Make sure to get them also.

Engine still runs - it fired right up. I am thinking along the same lines as you regarding a bad needle. Once I pulled the carb, I did a pop-off and there was some hisssss from around the old needle and seat. That seems suspect.

I also found that it had a gold/brass spring which I think is a higher pop-off (115) than what is normally used (95). I'll try going with the new sliver one and see how it works on the bench. I kinda don't want to use the old spring since it is not what I thought is usually used and was acting a bit odd.

The only concern I have about the engine is that I read somewhere that an air leak pretty much anywhere in the engine could cause it to run at first, then not start once it heats up. Hopefully that is not the case (pun intended) though! Unfortunately due to circumstances, I never fully tested it back then so anything is possible.
 
If the engine was good when you left it 2 year or seasons should be good. Squirt some oil down the cylinders and spin it by hand. If it moves good you will be fine. Sounds like bad needle and seat. Make sure to get them also.

YOU DON'T HAVE THAT ENGINE IN YET??? Stop posting and get to work! LOL!!!!
 
Typically and air leak will let it start but then it will not turn off and the RPM's get higher and higher until it blows up. The air leak is causing it to run so lean and hot it doesn't need a spark much like a diesel. Trust me you will know if you have a "run away" engine. Only way to stop it is to hold full throttle and pull full choke till it stops then change your shorts.
 
I am waiting for the PTO to come tomorrow. It was shipped separate since he was worried about the weight. The engine looks real nice and clean until I put it in.
 
I am waiting for the PTO to come tomorrow. It was shipped separate since he was worried about the weight. The engine looks real nice and clean until I put it in.

AKA he forgot. Lol I'm jk glad you got the engine



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!
 
He didn't forget he was worried on the weight and wanted to make sure. He told me there was 2 packages coming.
 
Typically and air leak will let it start but then it will not turn off and the RPM's get higher and higher until it blows up. The air leak is causing it to run so lean and hot it doesn't need a spark much like a diesel. Trust me you will know if you have a "run away" engine. Only way to stop it is to hold full throttle and pull full choke till it stops then change your shorts.

That's good to know. Nothing as serious as a run away engine or a personal backfire has occurred.

When it started, it did very well... for a 587.
 
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