SeaDoo XP 1996 boggs down under full throttle

Status
Not open for further replies.
R

rubves

Member
Hey i’ve got a problem with my xp bogging down under full throttle and its hard to start. When under full throttle and it boggs down i pull and release the choke lever for 1-2 seconds and then it revs up again but quickly boggs down again. Is this the carbs or the fuel delivery?

(My spark is yellow/orange, maybe thats the problem?
 
Sounds like a fuel delivery/carb issue to me.

Have the carbs ever been rebuilt? Fuel selector ever been changed? Grey fuel lines been changed?
 
there a black lines from the tank but grey ones on the carbs. i have not rebuilt it but i have cleaned them out. fuel selector never been changed i think.
 
okay, i know somebody that can a lot more than me and he said i was rich too because there was smoke out of the airfilter/carb

ill try to adjust it so im not that rich :D
and now that i think of it, it makes more and more sense, its basically drowning the engine and it cant rev up. right?
 
but if i have choke on more than 1-2 sconds it dies. is the solution still that its rich or is it something else. (i dont want to mess with the carb if not needed so that why i ask before doing anything.)
 
glsmohio said:
If U pull the choke and it revs up that means you're rich
Click to expand...
rubves said:
okay, i know somebody that can a lot more than me and he said i was rich too because there was smoke out of the airfilter/carb

ill try to adjust it so im not that rich :D
and now that i think of it, it makes more and more sense, its basically drowning the engine and it cant rev up. right?
Click to expand...

No! Do not pull fuel out of it at this point! If you are having a bog/hesitation and choke helps the situation, then you are LEAN! Pulling the choke closes off airflow and enriches the mixture, so the last thing you want to do is lean it out more than it already is...

You need to go through the whole fuel system. Replace the selector, the separator o ring, any grey fuel lines, and then rebuild your carbs using ONLY genuine Mikuni parts and new needles and seats. No amount of adjusting or cleaning is going to fix this, and you’re just harming the motor by running it at all before this stuff is fixed.
 
okay that seems more right because i though by pulling the choke you closed the carb to less air and turns out that is the case. The previous owner converted it to premix and i dont know if its jetted for premix could that be the problem, that its not jetted for premix?
 
Premix won’t change the jetting at all, or at least it shouldn’t... That brings up another big question though. Why was it changed to premix? These skis have a super reliable oiling system from the factory, and there really isn’t any good reason to go premix. Is the oil tank still in place, full, and the lines run to the RV cavity? If not, you need to address that ASAP also, as the rotary valve needs a constant oil bath to operate correctly.

It sounds like you really need to go through this ski and make sure everything is maintained and set to the correct specs...
 
there is oil going to the RV. The oil tank isnt full, but its half full or so. He said he converted because he had heard that its better for the engine and if the oil pump goes than i goes without any warnings. but thats fine i guess? or?:p
 
Well there are quite a few guys here that have been working on these skis for decades and have never seen a single oil pump failure... I’ve only even heard of it happening a handful of times, and most of those were problems with oil lines rather than the pump. I think it’s far more likely that someone mixes the wrong amount of oil or pours from the wrong gas can than you having a pump fail...

The biggest thing you need to do at this point is go through the fuel system. Read the carb rebuild sticky in the forum and follow it exactly...
 
okay, so

1. pull every fuel line
2. Replace fuel selector
2. rebuild carbs
4. New fuel lines

anything else?
 
If you have black lines from the tank, I would just replace the ones that are left on the carbs. I’d go through the following:

1. Replace the fuel selector. Don’t bother trying to clean it, they generally get worse once they’re cleaned.

2. Replace the filter element and o ring on the water separator.

3. Rebuild the carbs using genuine OEM Mikuni carb kits and new needles and seats. The easiest place to buy these as a set is OSD parts. They have a “back to OEM” kit that includes everything you need. Make sure you get the transition ports squeaky clean!

4. Make sure the carbs are adjusted to factory settings. 1 turn out from closed on the low speed screws and closed on the high speed. Popoff pressure should be between 23-43.

That should get you up and running!
 
and that the parts i need? so just buy the things from the links you sent? i found selector on amazon for 22 dollars that i will buy instead.
 
None of the additional items are absolutely necessary. The selector is one of those options for $26.00, so I’d probably buy that one rather than get it from Amazon. The cheap ones just don’t feel right to me, and some say they have issues with new ones leaking...

The stock carbs are square body BN-40i’s. BRP Part numbers are 270500284 and 270500285 depending on whether it’s the mag or the PTO carb.
 
wait, why do i need to rebuild the carbs? isnt it just replace the selector and clean the carb?

(trying to learn, so that why i ask many questions)
 
You can try to clean the carbs, but it’ll wind up being more of a learning experience for you rather than a fix for your problem most likely... Your motor is running lean, which means there is either gunk somewhere in the fuel system, an air leak, or the gaskets/diaphragms/needles in the carbs are shot. I would say that most of the motor failures in these engines are caused by running lean, so it’s super important to get this part of the ski in perfect condition...

Also, there are people who post on the forum here at least every couple of days, that are trying to figure out a bog/hesitation/stutter/shutdown after cleaning or rebuilding their carbs. This is almost always due to either using aftermarket carb kits, or not getting the transition ports perfectly clean... I can’t count how many times myself or one of the more senior members of the forum have had to “forcefully convince” someone to go back through their carbs while trying to diagnose a bog issue on a ski that supposedly has carbs that were “just rebuilt.” Going back through them again with actual Mikuni parts fixes the issue 99% of the time... It’s absolutely worth avoiding going down that rabbit hole by just buying the correct parts and doing the whole rebuild correctly the first time...
 
i have some experiance with engines but not that much but i have cleaned the carb and the needle was sharp and good. but there were some jets or screws that were rounded off. but most likely its the selector or the lines or that rounded off screw.
 
wait. air leak? the gaskets between the engine and the carb and the carb and the air-filter was in a bad contidtion. should i try removing the gaskets and put liquid gasket maker there instead and see if thats the problem?
 
JeremyD615 said:
No! Do not pull fuel out of it at this point! If you are having a bog/hesitation and choke helps the situation, then you are LEAN! Pulling the choke closes off airflow and enriches the mixture, so the last thing you want to do is lean it out more than it already is...

You need to go through the whole fuel system. Replace the selector, the separator o ring, any grey fuel lines, and then rebuild your carbs using ONLY genuine Mikuni parts and new needles and seats. No amount of adjusting or cleaning is going to fix this, and you’re just harming the motor by running it at all before this stuff is fixed.
Click to expand...
Shit you are right
.....you should just set that to the factory settings which can be found on Seadoo source and that ski should run fall asleep without any tuning
 
rubves said:
wait. air leak? the gaskets between the engine and the carb and the carb and the air-filter was in a bad contidtion. should i try removing the gaskets and put liquid gasket maker there instead and see if thats the problem?
Click to expand...

No, the base gaskets are important. You don’t want to RTV those. The flame arrestor assembly does not have a gasket, so you just use a dab of sealant on those.

When I say air leak, I don’t mean a leak into the intake charge, I’m talking about an air leak into the fuel system. The two most likely places for that to happen are the fuel selector switch or the water separator o ring, which is why you should replace those. I would highly recommend just going through the whole fuel system though. If you do it all now, you’ll fix your problem and have several more years of trouble free riding.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

CorbinSeadoos
1995 Seadoo SPX bogging down won’t start.
Replies
2
Views
120
burtshaver2021
burtshaver2021
B
Please Help! 1995 XP bogging at full throttle after carb rebuild - fuel pressure?
Replies
20
Views
414
Stevie96xp
Stevie96xp
R
96 seadoo XP 800 won't go past 6 mph full throttle
Replies
11
Views
308
ruddigger
R
R
Duplicate - please delete -96 seadoo XP 800 won't go past 6 mph full throttle
Replies
0
Views
103
ruddigger
R
R
Duplicate - please delete -96 seadoo XP 800 won't go past 6 mph full throttle
Replies
0
Views
89
ruddigger
R
Back
Top