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Seadoo DI (Direct Injection) Fuel Pump Replacement Guide
- Thread starter DooWacka
- Start date
DooWacka
Active Member
Yes, it appears to still be the best. They now include both strainers, the can filter, and tank gasket for a bit more than half the original price (now $80). They also still have the lifetime warranty! The gasket should not really need replacing, and if you can blow easily through the can filter I wouldn't replace that either since it usually involves double oetiker clamps on each side.
rboyer224
Member
Thank you sir. Good point about the filter clamps. I plan on purchasing those clamps and tool just because of how bad the filters looked. I'm surprised this ski ran at all!!
Attachments
Thanks for your reply DooWacka and advice, I really appreciate you taking the time!
As a follow up to yesterday, since I had everything apart, I ended up using part of a fuel hose and sliding it into the silver shaft. It is a very tight fit but seems to work. I installed everything and the Seadoo started. I did some pressure tests and things seem to be working!!!! :thumbsup: I attached a pic in case it might help others.I am planning to use the Seadoo in 2 weeks so I will let everyone know if it didn't work!
Thanks again for the advice!
View attachment 24183View attachment 24184
@rkbuye, I know it's been a while but did this (the rubber hose in place of the sliding seal) end up working long term. Thanks, Dave.
Pepperidge
New Member
looking to do something with worn out oem module...the "stealer " wants $940 for new with one year guarantee(again)...they don't last more than 2 years, but longer than 1... 
FML
also does anyone know if the venom pump i see being pushed as rigid mounted like OEM any good? or stay away from that one?
FMLalso does anyone know if the venom pump i see being pushed as rigid mounted like OEM any good? or stay away from that one?
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DooWacka
Active Member
You are right.
Thanks for the reminder.
Yes, the 382 was a small gold anodized pump with a black plastic top for about $40 (back in the day) from a number of places. HFF sent me one of theirs for a try. I had to plug the bypass port, then it seemed to perform OK, and only used about 6 A. However, I don't think I had one last more than about 40 hours.
The original HFP-342 from HF was just a Walbro competitor that used too much power.
The HF second generation was a Ford Mustang pump HFP-RTN with a white plastic top, but used 9A.
The pump I now have in all 4 of my DI is I believe the still current HF model HFP-342DI which has a blue plastic top and has been lasting well and only draws about 6A.
I just looked on the High Flow Fuel site and I see a new pump that actually looks identical from the outside to the BRP OEM pump! I have not tried one of these HFP-500DI-X , but I am curious if it performs as well as the OEM with the original 4 to 5A draw.
I wouldn't think it is the exact pump since Airtex, which was the supplier of that pump to BRP, told me that it was a proprietary design for BRP and they couldn't make them on their own without permission.
So the current recommended pump would be either the HFP-342DI, or possibly the newest HFP-500DI-X.
Thanks for the reminder.
Yes, the 382 was a small gold anodized pump with a black plastic top for about $40 (back in the day) from a number of places. HFF sent me one of theirs for a try. I had to plug the bypass port, then it seemed to perform OK, and only used about 6 A. However, I don't think I had one last more than about 40 hours.
The original HFP-342 from HF was just a Walbro competitor that used too much power.
The HF second generation was a Ford Mustang pump HFP-RTN with a white plastic top, but used 9A.
The pump I now have in all 4 of my DI is I believe the still current HF model HFP-342DI which has a blue plastic top and has been lasting well and only draws about 6A.
I just looked on the High Flow Fuel site and I see a new pump that actually looks identical from the outside to the BRP OEM pump! I have not tried one of these HFP-500DI-X , but I am curious if it performs as well as the OEM with the original 4 to 5A draw.
I wouldn't think it is the exact pump since Airtex, which was the supplier of that pump to BRP, told me that it was a proprietary design for BRP and they couldn't make them on their own without permission.
So the current recommended pump would be either the HFP-342DI, or possibly the newest HFP-500DI-X.
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Well today I had delivered the 342 from quantum and will install tomorrow. BTW it was here in two days not the three days they projected. But while separating the line it was definitely "charged" and spit out when I separated it at the clamp soni.am kinda eliminating the fuel pump but installing it anyways at the 176 hour mark the damn ski owes me nothing and I owe it some preventative work.
The big in line filter was clear too so I am thinking it is up in the fuel rail.
I also ordered a t-line to be able to install the pressure gauge in line before the rail. (Wish there was a way to determine after the rail
) just have to trust my injectors and air pressure. Which did spit too when I plugged them from the rail.
BTW dropped the damn retaining clip into the abyss of the hull. Screw seadoo, my local machine shop made the damn 50$ part the size of your thumb for $5 and 30 secs on the water jet cause I brought them the one I carefully unscrewed from the other hose.
I might be thinking injectors but not sure yet still;(
HATE TO THINK COMPRESSION IN THE CYLINDERS
it has not been cracked and the only symptom was fuel starvation;(
Will report more.
Thanks for this link and chat
The big in line filter was clear too so I am thinking it is up in the fuel rail.
I also ordered a t-line to be able to install the pressure gauge in line before the rail. (Wish there was a way to determine after the rail
) just have to trust my injectors and air pressure. Which did spit too when I plugged them from the rail.BTW dropped the damn retaining clip into the abyss of the hull. Screw seadoo, my local machine shop made the damn 50$ part the size of your thumb for $5 and 30 secs on the water jet cause I brought them the one I carefully unscrewed from the other hose.
I might be thinking injectors but not sure yet still;(
HATE TO THINK COMPRESSION IN THE CYLINDERS
it has not been cracked and the only symptom was fuel starvation;(Will report more.
Thanks for this link and chat
DooWacka
Active Member
Just holding some pressure in the fuel line in no way indicates the pump was supplying the required high pressure.
The pressure before the rail is the one to measure. The return line from the rail to the tank has no pressure. The fuel pressure measurement before the rail actually really measures both the fuel and air pressures since they are additive. The fuel pump just adds 27 psi above the air rail pressure. If you don't get the 107 psi then it is almost always the fuel pump.
You never stated your symptoms, so it is hard to help any further. You should probably start a new thread to help with your problem, since it may not be the fuel pump.
The pressure before the rail is the one to measure. The return line from the rail to the tank has no pressure. The fuel pressure measurement before the rail actually really measures both the fuel and air pressures since they are additive. The fuel pump just adds 27 psi above the air rail pressure. If you don't get the 107 psi then it is almost always the fuel pump.
You never stated your symptoms, so it is hard to help any further. You should probably start a new thread to help with your problem, since it may not be the fuel pump.
Insert accomplished, so to speak. The filter inside the tube will not perfectly seat but feel comfortable with it in place. Spliced the fuel pump 12v lines and shrink wrapped them. I had to twist the crimp on from quantum to be able to slip the plastic down over it.
The filters were scalely so they definitely needed to be replaced.
Question is on reassembly the return line from the fuel rail can NOT be blown through should I be able to blow through?
The filters were scalely so they definitely needed to be replaced.
Question is on reassembly the return line from the fuel rail can NOT be blown through should I be able to blow through?
It does not free flow but I unplugged it into a beer bottle
and still not firing up. Sparks plugs are good checked them outside the plug holes.
I am up to a fuel rail issue, are there fuses that would restrict the injectors from working??? Though it ran on the water but would not fire back up. Thecl machine will fire with gas dropped into the cylinders so the damn thing will run.
Picture of fuel filters for comparison
DooWacka
Active Member
I never saw any statement about what your original problem was.
If you thought it was the fuel pump then you really need to measure the fuel pressure.
Placing he key on the post should give 27 psi, then hitting the starter button it should climb quickly to at least 90 psi to start, then run at 107 psi.
If you thought it was the fuel pump then you really need to measure the fuel pressure.
Placing he key on the post should give 27 psi, then hitting the starter button it should climb quickly to at least 90 psi to start, then run at 107 psi.
I have an inline gauge to install. Not easy finding one over 100. Should install it soon if I don't let the Marine specialist in the area at it this coming week
Original problem was stalling on lake and not getting full strength engine run. Really started last year for me at end of summer was convinced it was water in the tank coming in through the damn open gas cap I left after doing some sweet left and right turns. Guess it still could be I drained about all I could get out. But might go full drain tomorrow as I bought a pump to remove the fuel to the very bottom.
Confused;(
Secret Outing
Active Member
Thanks for your reply DooWacka and advice, I really appreciate you taking the time!
As a follow up to yesterday, since I had everything apart, I ended up using part of a fuel hose and sliding it into the silver shaft. It is a very tight fit but seems to work. I installed everything and the Seadoo started. I did some pressure tests and things seem to be working!!!! :thumbsup: I attached a pic in case it might help others.
Thanks again for the advice!
View attachment 24183View attachment 24184
This might be exactly what I need to do with mine. Great idea thanks a million
Hey Dave, yes it seems to have worked for me. No issues with that so far!
shwing2345
New Member
I need to replace the fuel pump on my 06 Sea Doo RXT. I'm on the fence about either buying the HFP-342DI-X or HFP-500DI-X. Seems like the HFP-342DI-X is tried and true but the HFP-500DI-X is closer to OEM design. Have you had a chance to test one out and which one would you buy?
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