DooWacka, wanted to let you know that thanks to your help I was able to isolate the HighFlow pump I received and bench test. It was in fact not developing sufficient pressure. I contacted Axiom Performance (HighFlow) and was immediately shipped a replacement pump. I installed it and it works perfect with a very manageable current draw and the required pressure. The customer service at Axiom Performance is outstanding and they seem intent on continued improvement to offer the best pump possible for this difficult DI application.
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Seadoo DI (Direct Injection) Fuel Pump Replacement Guide
- Thread starter DooWacka
- Start date
I just completed this, and boy it was easy! Thanks for such a great write-up. The pump from Highflow arrived very quickly to east TN.
My symptoms were random shutdown, instant, no bogging, no codes, fuel pressure tested fine at the shop. I was told everything from electrical, injectors, bad gas, and a lot of other guesses which would have been costly to guess at and part swap. Unfortunately my compression was around 120 PSI at 244 hours, so I went ahead and had SES rebuild the engine (which turned out great). I replaced the fuel pump, a Baldwin fuel filter BF1049, stainless fuel injection hose clamps, and a Tee with needle valve for future testing and a 160PSI gauge installed in the glove box. I really like being able to open the glove box and seeing the pressure dead on 107PSI!
Anyway, changing the large fuel filter and installing the pressure gauge was $50. I would recommend that to anyone having similar issues. Thanks again for the great write-up.
*edit*
I forgot to add, for thread sealant, rector seal 5 works great. It is rated for fuel (amongst other things), multiple types of metal, and up to 10,000psi with gasoline. You can also pick it up at any hardware store, and it's cheap.
My symptoms were random shutdown, instant, no bogging, no codes, fuel pressure tested fine at the shop. I was told everything from electrical, injectors, bad gas, and a lot of other guesses which would have been costly to guess at and part swap. Unfortunately my compression was around 120 PSI at 244 hours, so I went ahead and had SES rebuild the engine (which turned out great). I replaced the fuel pump, a Baldwin fuel filter BF1049, stainless fuel injection hose clamps, and a Tee with needle valve for future testing and a 160PSI gauge installed in the glove box. I really like being able to open the glove box and seeing the pressure dead on 107PSI!
Anyway, changing the large fuel filter and installing the pressure gauge was $50. I would recommend that to anyone having similar issues. Thanks again for the great write-up.
*edit*
I forgot to add, for thread sealant, rector seal 5 works great. It is rated for fuel (amongst other things), multiple types of metal, and up to 10,000psi with gasoline. You can also pick it up at any hardware store, and it's cheap.
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Thanks for the instructions, they came in very handy.
I ordered my replacement pump and when I took my original apart, I found I had a broken seal which may be the cause of my issues. Any idea on where I could get a seal?
Any help appreciated as I have this thing ripped apart in my back yard! :facepalm:
I ordered my replacement pump and when I took my original apart, I found I had a broken seal which may be the cause of my issues. Any idea on where I could get a seal?
Any help appreciated as I have this thing ripped apart in my back yard! :facepalm:
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DooWacka
Active Member
I don't know of anyone that knows where they can be purchased. My local BRP dealership says that they don't have a source either, and if the "sliding seal" goes out, they have to replace the whole fuel pump module. You can see if someone has a non-functional module, to scavenge that part. Or you can do what I have done and see if you get lucky when calling the dealerships about used modules. The dealerships just throw the old modules away when replacing them. I have asked for and been given the old modules for parts or rebuilding.
As a last resort you can abandon the "sliding seal" feature and clamp a hose directly between the pump and the rigid black tube, as others have done.
As a last resort you can abandon the "sliding seal" feature and clamp a hose directly between the pump and the rigid black tube, as others have done.
Thanks for your reply DooWacka and advice, I really appreciate you taking the time!
As a follow up to yesterday, since I had everything apart, I ended up using part of a fuel hose and sliding it into the silver shaft. It is a very tight fit but seems to work. I installed everything and the Seadoo started. I did some pressure tests and things seem to be working!!!! :thumbsup: I attached a pic in case it might help others.
I am planning to use the Seadoo in 2 weeks so I will let everyone know if it didn't work!
Thanks again for the advice!
As a follow up to yesterday, since I had everything apart, I ended up using part of a fuel hose and sliding it into the silver shaft. It is a very tight fit but seems to work. I installed everything and the Seadoo started. I did some pressure tests and things seem to be working!!!! :thumbsup: I attached a pic in case it might help others.
I am planning to use the Seadoo in 2 weeks so I will let everyone know if it didn't work!Thanks again for the advice!
DooWacka,
Thanks for the thread. A google search led me to it so I went ahead and joined.
It sounds like it'll work for my 06 Sportster but thought I'd ask the expert. Yes?
I'm blowing the 10A fuse for the pump and the shop said that the CEL is because the fuel pump is shorted. When I put a 15A fuse in, I can get the starter to crank but it won't start. When I pull the fuel line, there's no fuel being pumped. There's no way I'm paying $780 for a new fuel pump so your fix sounds like my best chance of getting back out on the water this year. By the way, when I looked up the P/N for my fuel pump it's the same one that's used in the Can Am (go figger).
My original intention was to purchase an in line fuel pump and just fabricate my own port from the bottom of the tank, cut the leads to the fuel pump and connect them to the new one but leave the old one in place. In reading the thread though, it sounds like there is not an active fuel pressure regulator in the system. The fuel pump just drains fuel from the high pressure line back in to the tank to release pressure back down to 107 psi. Is that true? I bought a 140 psi pump that hasn't arrived yet for $50 off of ebay. Will that pressure damage the system?
Thanks for any help you can give.
t4b
Thanks for the thread. A google search led me to it so I went ahead and joined.
It sounds like it'll work for my 06 Sportster but thought I'd ask the expert. Yes?
I'm blowing the 10A fuse for the pump and the shop said that the CEL is because the fuel pump is shorted. When I put a 15A fuse in, I can get the starter to crank but it won't start. When I pull the fuel line, there's no fuel being pumped. There's no way I'm paying $780 for a new fuel pump so your fix sounds like my best chance of getting back out on the water this year. By the way, when I looked up the P/N for my fuel pump it's the same one that's used in the Can Am (go figger).
My original intention was to purchase an in line fuel pump and just fabricate my own port from the bottom of the tank, cut the leads to the fuel pump and connect them to the new one but leave the old one in place. In reading the thread though, it sounds like there is not an active fuel pressure regulator in the system. The fuel pump just drains fuel from the high pressure line back in to the tank to release pressure back down to 107 psi. Is that true? I bought a 140 psi pump that hasn't arrived yet for $50 off of ebay. Will that pressure damage the system?
Thanks for any help you can give.
t4b
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lamajama
Well-Known Member
In case I can help...
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?78342-Seadoo-DI-Fuel-Pump-Replacement
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?78342-Seadoo-DI-Fuel-Pump-Replacement
DooWacka
Active Member
Looking at the very first post in this thread, I have a table showing all the DI PWC that I thought BRP made, I don't see an '06 Sportster, just '04 and '05. But if it is a DI then you most likely need the high pressure pump.
When these OEM pumps get older you will often have an increase in amps drawn until the fuse blows.
Don't mess with an external pump, just rebuild the fuel pump module as is shown in the guide, and as many have done before.
There is a fuel pressure regulator in the Fuel/Air Rail, that just allows any extra fuel to return to the tank. Your new pump may be capable of 140 psi, but the regulator will never allow that pressure to build. I have tested the OE pump to over 160 psi. The regulator allows the rail to stay at the 107 psi required.
Is the new 140 psi pump an in-tank replacement? If so, could you give a link so people can see?
The problem is not just finding a pump to give the 107 psi pressure, but doing it with a reasonable current draw of under 9 amps. The OE pump only draws about 4 to 5 amps. If your pump draws to much, not only the battery doesn't charge but the MPEM doesn't like it and gets flakey. There are also other problems associated with to high of current draw. There are several automotive pumps that can give the pressure required but draw 12+ amps to do so. The manufacturers of those pumps don't care about current since there is plenty available in the vehicle. The BRP 951 Magneto puts out about 220 watts, so that is about 18 amps max. That is all you have to run everything including charging the battery.
There are plenty of in-tank fuel pumps on eBay and elsewhere that advertise working in a DI, so I hope you haven't selected an automotive external pump that would probably draw 16 amps.
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DooWacka,
Thanks for the response. When the pump I ordered arrives, I'll do a quick test for power draw & let you know (no need to post source till I find out if it'll work).
I'm starting to think that I'll prolly backpedal and go with your solution even though I've already bought the other pump ... just so I'll have the lifetime warrantee on the new pump. I think I want to run a few more tests on the boat though before I purchase anything else.
lamajama,
If you get an offer on your pump go for it. I'll contact you if interested in a few weeks to see if it's still available.
Tom
Thanks for the response. When the pump I ordered arrives, I'll do a quick test for power draw & let you know (no need to post source till I find out if it'll work).
I'm starting to think that I'll prolly backpedal and go with your solution even though I've already bought the other pump ... just so I'll have the lifetime warrantee on the new pump. I think I want to run a few more tests on the boat though before I purchase anything else.
lamajama,
If you get an offer on your pump go for it. I'll contact you if interested in a few weeks to see if it's still available.
Tom
The new pump arrived on Friday & I installed it on Saturday. I was elated when it immediately fired up. I shut it down so I could attach a hose to run it longer. Now it won't re-start. Is there a chance that there is air in the line up to the fuel rail that needs to be bled out? I ran the battery down trying to re-start it but haven't tried again since the battery is now charged.
DooWacka
Active Member
I hope you know to have the motor running before turning on the hose. The exhaust pressure keeps the tuned pipe cooling water out of the combustion chamber.
There would be no air in the fuel circuit to the rail.
If you got water in the motor, try to kick it out by running "drowned mode", holding the throttle at wide open then cranking. It won't start, but tries to push out any water in the cylinders and case. If you have any water in there, don't leave it very long since it will start rusting any surface not coated well with oil.
If you didn't have a water mistake, then you probably need to check the fuel pressure.
There would be no air in the fuel circuit to the rail.
If you got water in the motor, try to kick it out by running "drowned mode", holding the throttle at wide open then cranking. It won't start, but tries to push out any water in the cylinders and case. If you have any water in there, don't leave it very long since it will start rusting any surface not coated well with oil.
If you didn't have a water mistake, then you probably need to check the fuel pressure.
Duly noted. I'm easily distracted so I won't leave it running unattended.
BTW, I don't think your fuel pump assy would have worked for me. The 06 Sportster uses a different pump than what started this whole thread (they did have one at the same place though. Mine uses the same one that Bombardier is still putting in the Can Am. Thanks for the offer though.
BTW, I don't think your fuel pump assy would have worked for me. The 06 Sportster uses a different pump than what started this whole thread (they did have one at the same place though. Mine uses the same one that Bombardier is still putting in the Can Am. Thanks for the offer though.
Hey Doowacka,
With another season in progress, any update on the fuel pump reliability? Looks like the DI fuel pump price has come down ($79.99 from high flow). I'm experiencing intermittent high rpm issues, and am getting ready to take it to an independent repair shop. Symptoms seem to indicate a fuel pump issue; once it's confirmed by a fuel pressure check, I'm looking at the high flow product.
With another season in progress, any update on the fuel pump reliability? Looks like the DI fuel pump price has come down ($79.99 from high flow). I'm experiencing intermittent high rpm issues, and am getting ready to take it to an independent repair shop. Symptoms seem to indicate a fuel pump issue; once it's confirmed by a fuel pressure check, I'm looking at the high flow product.
2002 GTX DI won't run
Hi all, First time posting but have done a LOT of reading here trying to solve an issue with a neighbors 2002 GTX DI that he bought not running. I felt I needed to post what I found since so many have given me an education on here and I had not read of anyone having this issue. So here goes, it would start and run ok for a couple seconds then stall. The previous owner had replaced the fuel and air regulators with some used ones he found so they were an unknown factor. He also put a 100 psi pressure gauge in the high pressure line. I would place the (key) on and the fuel pump would run for a couple seconds and build pressure to 28 and hold pressure for a while after the pump shut off, I never timed how long. I would crank it over and it would start one time and run for a couple seconds then stall. while cranking fuel pressure would be in the 80 PSI range. I replaced the pump with the High Flow Fuel pump HFP-342-DI. (Thanks Doowacka, awesome job on all the help.) With no change in anything after the new pump install I began to think the regulator must be bad and letting the fuel bypass and return to the tank. I unhooked the return line at the disconnect and put a small container to catch any fuel the was returning to the tank and cranked it over but nothing came out and I was still only getting about 80 PSI. I was starting to think I got a bad pump so I hooked up the lines in this order - fuel pump, hose, gauge, ball valve, return line to the pump. I first cranked it over with the valve open and slowly closed it while cranking....80 PSI! Now it has to be a bad pump, but wait, I read someone had an issue with a bad seal or something where the pump mates with the housing. I pulled the pump up out of the tank enough to see if fuel with leaking at the seal and cranked it over and fuel was spraying back into the tank at a high rate. Finally, there is light at the end of this long tunnel of frustration! I pulled the pump out and everything looked great, the rubber seal was nice and flexible, nothing cracked or broken. I put the pump back together and put back in the tank and watched again, only a little closer this time. I could see the fuel was coming back in from the return ports of the pump housing. It looked as if the pressure line had an internal hole in the housing that the 2 rubber lines attach to on the top of the tank. I pulled the pump assembly back out and here's what I found. The top housing that is held in place by the flimsy little stainless steel spring clamp had rusted so much and gotten so thick that it pushed the housing up enough to unseat the O-rings that separate the high pressure fuel from the return fuel. I took it apart cleaned the rust as good as I could. The O-rings and their surfaces were in great condition. I put it back together and it started right up and continued to run.....sigh! Sorry for being long winded, I just wanted to give the full story in the hopes that I can help someone else as all of you have helped me. Thanks, Dan
Hi all, First time posting but have done a LOT of reading here trying to solve an issue with a neighbors 2002 GTX DI that he bought not running. I felt I needed to post what I found since so many have given me an education on here and I had not read of anyone having this issue. So here goes, it would start and run ok for a couple seconds then stall. The previous owner had replaced the fuel and air regulators with some used ones he found so they were an unknown factor. He also put a 100 psi pressure gauge in the high pressure line. I would place the (key) on and the fuel pump would run for a couple seconds and build pressure to 28 and hold pressure for a while after the pump shut off, I never timed how long. I would crank it over and it would start one time and run for a couple seconds then stall. while cranking fuel pressure would be in the 80 PSI range. I replaced the pump with the High Flow Fuel pump HFP-342-DI. (Thanks Doowacka, awesome job on all the help.) With no change in anything after the new pump install I began to think the regulator must be bad and letting the fuel bypass and return to the tank. I unhooked the return line at the disconnect and put a small container to catch any fuel the was returning to the tank and cranked it over but nothing came out and I was still only getting about 80 PSI. I was starting to think I got a bad pump so I hooked up the lines in this order - fuel pump, hose, gauge, ball valve, return line to the pump. I first cranked it over with the valve open and slowly closed it while cranking....80 PSI! Now it has to be a bad pump, but wait, I read someone had an issue with a bad seal or something where the pump mates with the housing. I pulled the pump up out of the tank enough to see if fuel with leaking at the seal and cranked it over and fuel was spraying back into the tank at a high rate. Finally, there is light at the end of this long tunnel of frustration! I pulled the pump out and everything looked great, the rubber seal was nice and flexible, nothing cracked or broken. I put the pump back together and put back in the tank and watched again, only a little closer this time. I could see the fuel was coming back in from the return ports of the pump housing. It looked as if the pressure line had an internal hole in the housing that the 2 rubber lines attach to on the top of the tank. I pulled the pump assembly back out and here's what I found. The top housing that is held in place by the flimsy little stainless steel spring clamp had rusted so much and gotten so thick that it pushed the housing up enough to unseat the O-rings that separate the high pressure fuel from the return fuel. I took it apart cleaned the rust as good as I could. The O-rings and their surfaces were in great condition. I put it back together and it started right up and continued to run.....sigh! Sorry for being long winded, I just wanted to give the full story in the hopes that I can help someone else as all of you have helped me. Thanks, Dan
Attachments
DooWacka, thank you for all you've done here. I just bought a high flow by quantum with all your mods already to go for a 2001 gtxdi i got from a frustrated family member. I'm handy with tools but usually rely on someone else to troubleshoot for me. His thought was that the fuel pump needed replaced and I hoping to get a cheap ski bit. I assumed he has never replaced pump decided both internal filters and pump 16 yrs old was time to tear into. Along the way ive gotten into rave valves ( not much to those but they were gummy and carbon covered.) But I just wanted you to know your knowledge on the fuel pump seems to be the standard for these old skis. Thanks you for sharing your knowledge.
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