Seadoo DI (Direct Injection) Fuel Pump Replacement Guide

[DooWacka]

If you have a manual, then go look up the self-diagnostics. Here is the page of interest.

Whether the beeps are short or long, 2 beeps seem to indicate a lanyard problem.

If that was all working before your fuel pump rebuild, then it may instead be something else.
If you remove and re-install the lanyard, you should get the familiar 2 beeps, and also hear the fuel pump run briefly (whirring noise). If you don't hear the pump run and then shut off, then it probably isn't getting power. Make sure that you have full battery power, then if so, check your pump connections. You did remember to re-plug in the pump and fuel sensor connector on top of the tank?

 

[nephi_05]

No I didn't have that manual. The only one I had was the operator's one. The one which just runs through the simplest stuff. But I followed that link at the bottom to find the other manuals. Holy cow, that will help a lot I think. Those are the kind of manuals I love working with.

Yeah, it seemed to be running great before I had the fuel pump issue. My brother was the last one to take the boat out when it was really struggling. He mentioned, though, that at one point it wouldn't go beyond like 30, 35, as if the training key (or child key or whatever it's called) was put on. I don't know if that was a pump issue as well, and it just couldn't get enough fuel to get up and go, or what.

I have 2 short beeps once I get in advanced diagnostics. I'll clean and check the lanyard and post. I may have bumped something while doing the pump install.

I guess I'll have to pull the pump out and check the connections again because I don't hear anything at all when I put the lanyard on the post. I'm pretty sure I got everything connected, but it will be good to check. Let me run through all the connections that need to be made, and tell me if I'm missing one:

- Connector to the fuel level sensor
- Connectors to the new fuel pump (Red wire to the larger plug on the pump. Black wire to the smaller plug)
- Connector to the black module cap
- Connector on the outside of the module that connects to the external wiring harness.

From what I've told you, do you think there's any major problem? Any other major repair/replacement that will need to be done? Any other answers I can give you that might help you diagnose it? You've been a real help so far. Diagnosing is the hardest thing for me to do, so I ask for a lot of help when it comes to that. Thanks a ton! Happy 4th!

 

[DooWacka]

The connections you mention are correct. I think the red terminal was larger, there is a subtle + indicator next to the positive terminal on the pump.

You said no noise when putting the key on the post. Do you mean not even the two short beeps, or just no pump "whirring" noise? The two short beeps are of course essential before any other troubleshooting. If you get the beeps but no pump sound, then it may not have power.

I never saw how you determined that the fuel pump was going out. Did you do a fuel pressure measurement, or what? The running slow your brother mentioned could be related to fuel starvation, or to a piston problem. Running lean can run hot and cause piston damage. If you do a compression test, you can see if there is low compression in one cylinder.

 

[nephi_05]

Here's what happens when I try to start it
- I put lanyard on
- 2 beeps (the normal beeps saying good connection, ready to go)
- No whirring sound, no nothing
- No display
- push start button, 1 long beep

The diagnosis came from a shop that we typically go to. After my brother came back saying the boat had issues, we took it in. They did a brief diagnostics test and said that the fuel pump was only doing about 35 psi, instead of the 107 psi that's required.

Running lean means low fuel, high oxygen, right? (I always get it mixed up which is high and low) If the pump wasn't putting out the full fuel pressure, I can definitely see it causing problems and not getting all the motor power it needs. How do I go about running a compression test?

I'm going to pull out the pump again and check all of my connections. I have a feeling it'll be one of the new connectors on the pump itself. I saw some oxidation/corrosion/something on the wires that may be keeping it from having a good connection. Or something may have just come unplugged. Either way I'll check that today and report back.

 

[nephi_05]

So I checked the connections and they all seem to be good. I checked the battery as well, because I know I've had issues with that before. Turns out my voltage was low. I've got it.charging now and hopefully that will give me the power to everything I need. We'll find out in the morning.

 

[DooWacka]

Replacement Pump Hours - so far

Since I have four replacement pumps in my four 2001 GTX DI Seadoos, and just returned from 2 weeks at the lake, here is an update on the hours so far.

#1 33 hours, "original" HFP-342 (black top, 12A) High Flow Performance
#2 37 hours, "newer" HFP342DI (HFP-RTN) (white top, 9A) High Flow Performance
#3 21 hours, "newer" HFP342DI (HFP-RTN) (white top, 9A) High Flow Performance
#4 15 hours, Walbro GSS-342 (12A)
After 15 hours of good performance, this Walbro pump stopped working by only supplying 80 psi, which would not even start the DI Seadoo.

As an experiment, the Walbro pump was replaced with a small gold anodized $40 pump that FELCO Products used to sell on eBay for DI Seadoos back in May. The great thing about this pump is that it only draws 6A of current! The pump has been operating flawlessly for 7 hours.

 

[lamajama]

Good info Doowacka! What was the background on the Walbro - was that the non-OEM idea prior to the HFP-342 (12A)?
The $40 pump - is it similar modifications to work as the HFP432DI 9A?

BTW I had tried to send you a private message and you in-box was full...you're a popular guy!!

 

[DooWacka]

The Walbro was the only pump I had originally found to get the pressure, before I found HighFlowFuel.com and their "Walbro knockoff" HFP-342. I went through three Walbro GSS-342 before finding "only" a 12A one.

The $39.98 (w/ free shipping) "gold" pump looks like other Chinese pumps I have seen online. Yes, all these pumps have similar outside construction, so the "Guide" works fine. When I bench tested this pump, it achieved the 107 psi but was also spewing quite a bit out the bypass port. So, I plugged the port to assure I would get enough flow at 107 psi. I am curious how long it will last, and am encouraged by the low power requirement of 6A. Felco has since switched the pump they are selling for the DI Seadoos, and it looks just like the HighFlow HFP-342 older 12A pump, and they now also sell it with the strainers, increasing the price to $100.

Sorry about the in-box, it has been cleaned up.

 

[adv bum]

Great read. I have not picked up my 2002 lrv di yet, but I like to know any issues and be ready. All the work DW put in is awesome. Nice to see Highflow adapting and getting better. I do wish there was more people speaking of the success of this alternative though.

 

[roberth2013]

DooWacka your the man again,,had bought this hfp pump this week ,,took the fuel canister out this evening,,,its alot like a GM intank pump assy,,, thought i would look around in here for some good info excellent write up,,, and pdf ,, tomorow my day will be much easier,,,lol,,,, thanks man

 

[Topglock]

I just installed the new pump with the directions provided which are teriffic by the way. Well after I got done the ski started right up and idles good but soon as I hit the throttle it bogs. New plugs and no maint lights or anything. This was a easy job so I can't figure it out...

 

[DooWacka]

You didn't state what your symptoms were before you did the pump replacement. Was the pump verified to have low pressure, or what other tests were done? Do you have a fuel pressure tester to watch the pressure, as you hit the throttle. This is important to troubleshoot if it is the pump, the install, or something else. I have not yet heard of the pump causing a problem like that.

 

[Topglock]

The only symptom before the replacement was it would intermittently die. Then it just quit running altogether and the only way to start it was to put fuel down the plug holes. Took it to my local Seadoo dealer and they diagnosed it with a bad fuel pump and wanted $833 to replace it! So I brought the ski home and removed the pump and put 12 volts to it and it made noise but wouldn't suck fuel. Started doing some online searching and ended up here. I bought a hfp and installed it using your directions. I don't have fuel pressure gauge but I might be able to get my hands on one. Where do I test it at?

 

[DooWacka]

You test at the output line (high pressure side) of the pump. The easiest place is the quick connect that you had to separate when you took out the module to do the rebuild. The one with the external in-line filter can. If you have a gauge on a T fitting you can insert the T with a pair of Quick-Connects and monitor the pressure while running.

 

[Topglock]

I never disconnected the quick connects. I didn't have the tool so I removed the clamps and took off the hoses at the pump. Installed new ones when I put it back together. There's no fuel leaks I see or hear. I used the loctite on the threads as advised. I'll locate a fuel gauge. Does it sound like maybe its sucking air you think. I didn't really even get a chance to run it that long maybe a minuet or two on the water hose. I was told it will ruin the driveline if its ran out of water to long.

 

[DooWacka]

So you can put a T fitting in where you installed the hose clamp. I just used a cheap compression tester from Harbor Freight and used it as the gauge. The only way the pump can "suck air" is if the tank is very low. There is a high pressure supply line to the fuel/air rail, and a low pressure return line from the rail to the tank. So, no potential for sucking anywhere there.

It's correct that you shouldn't run it that long out of water, even on the hose. But, your issue of bogging can be observed in 15 seconds of running with "blipping" the throttle (no hose needed). If it doesn't have an immediate increase in rpm, something is wrong. If it is related to the fuel pump, you need to verify pressure and flow.

 

[Topglock]

Figured it out!! So stupid....all this panic for nothing. It turned out I was only trying the key I had programed for the kids to only go 35mph. I used my key and boy does it rev. Job complete.
Thanks for the replies DooWacka! Not to mention the "how to" on the install. Thank you

 

[lamajama]

Figured it out!! So stupid....all this panic for nothing. It turned out I was only trying the key I had programed for the kids to only go 35mph. I used my key and boy does it rev. Job complete.
Thanks for the replies DooWacka! Not to mention the "how to" on the install. Thank you

That's great! Kind of surprised at the solution as your symptoms didn't seem to match a learner's key IMHO. Check back
in after another good ride or two will ya?

 

[Topglock]

That's great! Kind of surprised at the solution as your symptoms didn't seem to match a learner's key IMHO. Check back
in after another good ride or two will ya?

I was surprised too. With the restricted key in it would throttle up just a bit and then act like it was hitting the rev limiter. Got thinking last night about the possibility of the wrong key. I keep both in that compartment in front of the seat. Got home tonight and tried my key and that was the ticket. I ran it for 2 min on the hose and it runs and revs up just like it use to. I'm taking it to the lake Saturday so I'll check back with results.

 

[Topglock]

Had it out Saturday and Sunday about a total of 7 hrs of ride time without a single issue. It ran a consistent 62mph all day.

 

[lamajama]

Had it out Saturday and Sunday about a total of 7 hrs of ride time without a single issue. It ran a consistent 62mph all day.

Great news! 62 is a pretty good speed. My 2002's would never run that. Must be the extra 25 lbs of dry weight...as well as my extra
uh...lbs...

 

[Geeps2900]

Hey, thanks for these instructions, they gave me more confidence as I took the fuel pump apart. Anyways, I decided to cheap out and get the gold FELCO pump. I replaced the pump following the instructions - minus the copper pipe to stiffen the connection since I could not find one the right size for my rubber tube. The tube I used was thick and short, so it was able to make a fairly stiff connection with the upper plastic stem. I was able to achieve a good seal. Anyways, I tested my pump install on the trailer (out of the water) by starting and revving up the motor. The RXDI started no problem and revved up to rev limiter instantly without hesitation. It didn't bog except for a little at first when the motor was cold. Anyways, on first start I got the long beep and maintenance light after 5 seconds of idling. On second start I got the beep and light after revving up. On about fifth start I got the long beep after about 1 minute of idling. I don't think I have a fuel pressure problem because I think the motor would bog down, but please correct me if I am wrong. I also don't think it is the voltage since the display would tell me I have low voltage. I am hoping it is air in the fuel line working its way and buggering up the sensors, but I am uncertain. Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

[DooWacka]

I also am using a cheap gold FELCO pump in one of my DI. I am very impressed that it only draws about 6 amps, so I am hopeful it has a long life. I only had 7 hours on it this season.

Since you are testing on the trailer, I hope you are providing cooling especially when you mentioned over a minute of running. If not you could be triggering an exhaust over temp, or engine over temp. Also, don't expect the display to always indicate LOW VOLTS, if the battery is low. Low voltage or bad rectifier output can cause various fault codes that don't even make sense (like TPS etc.). I think the MPEM gets confused without a good amount of clean power. Make sure your battery is fully charged, and supply garden hose cooling if you are running that long.

You have proper fuel pressure or it would not start and run. There are no sensors for air in the fuel etc., besides all the air is most likely gone as long as you have run it. Take it out on the water and run it and most likely the beeps will disappear.

 

[Geeps2900]

I also am using a cheap gold FELCO pump in one of my DI. I am very impressed that it only draws about 6 amps, so I am hopeful it has a long life. I only had 7 hours on it this season.

Since you are testing on the trailer, I hope you are providing cooling especially when you mentioned over a minute of running. If not you could be triggering an exhaust over temp, or engine over temp. Also, don't expect the display to always indicate LOW VOLTS, if the battery is low. Low voltage or bad rectifier output can cause various fault codes that don't even make sense (like TPS etc.). I think the MPEM gets confused without a good amount of clean power. Make sure your battery is fully charged, and supply garden hose cooling if you are running that long.

You have proper fuel pressure or it would not start and run. There are no sensors for air in the fuel etc., besides all the air is most likely gone as long as you have run it. Take it out on the water and run it and most likely the beeps will disappear.

So I tried the Felco pump for a couple of hours and it worked great. Only issue is my loose connection didn't always create the required pressure, so it sometimes wouldn't start. I ended up tearing the fuel pump back out and using the beer can trick from the other related forum, cutting out a strip and wrapping it around the rubber hose several times. After that, the pressure always built up properly. But it seems you were right about my rectifier, it is shot. Talk about bad luck with this Sea Doo. Anyways, I ordered a $40 rectifier from eBay and I'll put it in the second it gets here. No more beeps after that I hope...

 

[rippey65]

what was the cost?

FYI to all. I just ordered mine directly from the highflowfuel.com site, and when they shipped it to me, they sent it already with the tubing and copper piping in place. So all the steps about creating the rigid hose connection aren't necessary. I would advise you to ask that they send it with the black tubing, just in case, but hopefully you won't have to worry about that part.