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regulator/rectifier check
- Thread starter richardpr
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blackNyellow787
Active Member
There is your answer, replace the rectifier with OEM one. I had to replace one this summer
They are a common failure...
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
You should see very close to 13.8 volts DC across the battery while running if your charging system is working properly. Anything less than 12.9 is drawing current from the battery, and 13.8 is about perfect to maintain a healthy battery charge on a normal lead-acid battery. AGM and other types of batteries such as deep cycle may require more than the 13.8 volts that most regulators are calibrated for.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Have you measured the stator to make sure it's not damaged? I thought you said a local shop installed their RR and the charging system was working?
I assume this is the same ski that has the water leak, right? With all these nagging problems, just pull the engine now and make your life easy. Fix the leak, get a visual on the stator and check it outside the hull, make sure it's not damaged, etc...... I wouldn't hesitate, cutting corners will eventually catch up with you. Here is my buddies late fathers saying-- "Any job big or small, do it twice or not at all!" He notoriously took a short cut and ended up doing the job again, but this time the right way.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
You can't bench check the entire RR for function but you can bench check the diodes and SCR pack using the procedure I wrote here:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?63048-Carb-Teardown-Found-Water-in-FP-Diaphgram/page2
I can add the stator check if you want but it's pretty easy to do: There should be about 1 Ohm between each of the yellow stator wires and no continuity to ground for any of the three.
You'll need an ohmmeter of course, or a 12v DC trouble light with a 12v battery will work, as well.......
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?63048-Carb-Teardown-Found-Water-in-FP-Diaphgram/page2
I can add the stator check if you want but it's pretty easy to do: There should be about 1 Ohm between each of the yellow stator wires and no continuity to ground for any of the three.
You'll need an ohmmeter of course, or a 12v DC trouble light with a 12v battery will work, as well.......
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/v/1384241_10151916799374383_935299607_n.jpg?oh=05792d0b86433bbd95a3013dd1af7b0a&oe=52691804&__gda__=1382638265_987f128c16f9431246670f5daa030804
that is what it looks like. no metal shvings as far as i can tell
that is what it looks like. no metal shvings as far as i can tell
You could have given that stuff some love before you put it all back together, it looks like your spinning pottery in there. That's what my stuff looked like in my 787, I threw it out and bought a good cleaned used one, same with the magneto, the inside of that cup (magneto) should be nice and clean, same for the outside. Don't forget to install the injection pump drive adapter when it goes back together. You really need to clean that up to eliminate any issues, these injected skis are so vulnerable to voltages you have to make sure your stuff is top notch. It probably is just your rectifier that is bad, but these parts are not going to help the situation, and possibly cause problems down the road.
Here's what a clean one looks like
Here's what a clean one looks like
I would use contact cleaner or brake cleaner and clean as much as possible. Remove the stator and clean the mounting points so it has good contact.
Any idea how water got in there ? How is the sealing lip all around the cover and the starter?
When you clean the rotor, be careful, there is a lip at the back that is really sharp!
Any idea how water got in there ? How is the sealing lip all around the cover and the starter?
When you clean the rotor, be careful, there is a lip at the back that is really sharp!
I would use brake cleaner on the aluminum and contact cleaner on the electrical components. The load a rag with brake cleaner and wipe the magneto so its spotless. Also get all the teeth(crank triggers) clean on the flywheel for the crank sensor to read good.
What has me wondering is how the heck is it that dusty/dirty after only 1/2 hour of run time??? I know that cover is liquid cooled, any chance there is a pin hole spraying into the housing? Perhaps blocking one of the ports an setting up a blow nozzle from a compressor to pressurize it and spray the inside of the cover with some soapy water in that area just to rule out a pin hole leak. Or was there that much water in there that it seeped in from the starter area from your other water leak?
It's difficult to see but you do have the o-ring seal on that front cover that runs around the entire perimeter of the housing?
What has me wondering is how the heck is it that dusty/dirty after only 1/2 hour of run time??? I know that cover is liquid cooled, any chance there is a pin hole spraying into the housing? Perhaps blocking one of the ports an setting up a blow nozzle from a compressor to pressurize it and spray the inside of the cover with some soapy water in that area just to rule out a pin hole leak. Or was there that much water in there that it seeped in from the starter area from your other water leak?
It's difficult to see but you do have the o-ring seal on that front cover that runs around the entire perimeter of the housing?
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