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Pulling Choke to overcome bogging

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cheappc

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I read somewhere that its bad for the engine. I probably need to go through my carbs again. Whats the biggest problem in using the choke?
 
I'm having the same issue with my HX. It's pretty much that it's starving for fuel and pulling the choke riches it up a bit. Does it do it at low speeds? That's how mine is. But depends which needle is lean
 
Try opening up counterclockwise LS screws on the carbs. about 1/4 turn, if you are needing to use the choke you're LS is too lean, this will richen the mixture slightly.

Lou
 
Thanks Guys,

Its ok at low speed?, just when I go maybe 40% throttle, then I have to wait, little by little.

Ok, I will do that Lou! thanks!
 
It depends where it "bogs" at and you are pulling the choke and it helps. Not sure if these have a mid needle or not. If not then the high speed needle. Again make sure to adjust in small increments (1/4 turn and to adjust both carbs the same if it is dual carbs)
 
The low speed (LS) needles only work at idle and a little above so that's not your problem. Have you checked your pop off?

Lou
 
The low speed (LS) needles only work at idle and a little above so that's not your problem. Have you checked your pop off?

Lou

Now that, I dont know how to do that..?

Bull Ill do a search!
 
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No, you can kill the motor by running it when it's in bad tune. The fact that the hesitation clears up with the choke points to it running lean, which means the motor is on borrowed time if you don't remedy it.
 
By the way, can I kill the motor by doing this? I did it 3 times on Sunday, thanks!

No, you can kill the motor by running it when it's in bad tune. The fact that the hesitation clears up with the choke points to it running lean, which means the motor is on borrowed time if you don't remedy it.

Strizzo, I think you mean YES, you can kill the motor by running in bad tune (lean)
 
I'm not telling you what to do, but if it were me, I would start back at square one, remove the carbs. and start over. The other option is to remove the carbs. and send them to someone like Dr Honda, or better yet send them to Dr Honda.

Lou
 
By the way, can I kill the motor by doing this? I did it 3 times on Sunday, thanks!

Yes.... you can kill the engine.

When a 2-stroke runs lean... you can melt a piston.

As Lou said... if you aren't comfortable digging into the carbs... send them to me. I only charge one hour labor to go though them ($65) Plus parts and shipping back to you. But... I only replace what needs replaced to help keep costs down.

PM me if you want my shipping address.
 
Yes.... you can kill the engine.

When a 2-stroke runs lean... you can melt a piston.

As Lou said... if you aren't comfortable digging into the carbs... send them to me. I only charge one hour labor to go though them ($65) Plus parts and shipping back to you. But... I only replace what needs replaced to help keep costs down.

PM me if you want my shipping address.

Thanks Doc,

Ok, I went through the carbs last year, and it worked like a charm the first time out on the lake, the second time out on the lake the problem started all over again.

It starts fine, and idles fine, but as soon as i apply the throttle, it starts bogging down at 20-40 percent, anything higher would shut off or rev and it wont do anything.

Ok doc, I could send them out to you, how long would it take? Please pm me your address thanks!
 
Thanks Doc,

Ok, I went through the carbs last year, and it worked like a charm the first time out on the lake, the second time out on the lake the problem started all over again.

It starts fine, and idles fine, but as soon as i apply the throttle, it starts bogging down at 20-40 percent, anything higher would shut off or rev and it wont do anything.

Ok doc, I could send them out to you, how long would it take? Please pm me your address thanks!

It sounds like there may be an air leak somewhere.

If you are comfortable doing it... then pop them back off, and check them over. And we will help you out.

I'm more than happy to do it for you... but I don't want to take you $$$ if you can do it yourself. (That's the point of this board) As far as time... even if I turn them around in a day... we are looking at about 7 to 10 days. (most of that's shipping time)
 
It sounds like there may be an air leak somewhere.

If you are comfortable doing it... then pop them back off, and check them over. And we will help you out.

I'm more than happy to do it for you... but I don't want to take you $$$ if you can do it yourself. (That's the point of this board) As far as time... even if I turn them around in a day... we are looking at about 7 to 10 days. (most of that's shipping time)

Believe me friend, I owe you way more than $65 dollars! lol...

However, where could the leak be? (is the leak inside the carbs?)
 
Yes... but I was thinking more like at the fuel select valve, or factory fuel filter.

Did you put in an extra fuel filter in line, before the carbs?
 
Yes... but I was thinking more like at the fuel select valve, or factory fuel filter.

Did you put in an extra fuel filter in line, before the carbs?

I havent put a fuel filter before the carbs, and I also havent changed my fuel selector valve (now to think of it I should have put it in reserve to test it right?), I also havent changed the factory fuel filter...


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Make sure the bolts are tight holding the carbs down. I went to take mine off and they were loose. Believe it fixed the same issue as what you are describing. Just an idea though of course
 
FYI, maybe it's just me, but I have not had a lot of luck cleaning the fuel control valve, there's a rubber washer that gets deformed, for $20.00 I would just replace it.

Lou
 
Ok I will order a new fuel selector valve, Also do you think if I play with the low speed screw it can help? Why do you think it sounds ok out of the water?
 
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