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New to me 96 XP

Ski has been sitting for year, according to seller, was running last summer. Going to drain the old fuel from the tank and fuel line. Question, is there a drain plug in the carb .
BTW, Fuel line is clear bluish, not the grey line.
 
If it was running last summer then you don’t need to drain the fuel or the carbs. That’s only one year of sitting. Just add some stabil to the gas and she will be good to go come next season
 
Or fit more fun if it’s still warm where you are take it out for an hour or 2 and burn up the fuel that’s in it, add fresh fuel and stabil and it will be ok.
 
I would drain the gas because as of next summer it will be 2 years old and even with stabilizer that is too long.
 
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Make sure there's oil and it's api TC rated, Check oil pump and lines, check drive shaft splines for grease, carbon seal, change impeller oil, clean the carb. These are my mistakes since I was too excited to go out and try it out.boom went my impeller splines and my rear cylinder at the same time
 
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Yes I'm dying to take it out :) but I know I need to go over some the items first
Question, the inlet fuel hose between the filter and carb , is that 5/16?
 
I'm not sure if it's 5/16, I do know for mine 2002 GTI LE it is a quarter inch ID, 717 engine. Does your hose have any writing on them?
 
Yes I'm dying to take it out :) but I know I need to go over some the items first
Question, the inlet fuel hose between the filter and carb , is that 5/16?
They are all 1/4 ID, I like the black continental fuel line off amazon for roughly 50.00 for 25’
 
she fired up, after a few squirt of starting fluid and fogging oil, i know im not supposed to use starting fluid so I added fogging oil. after that, she fired up each time. didnt do much to it, really. same plugs, same fuel, just needed to be awakened up.

but still got some to-do items, like missing start button, hydro turf, hull is dirty, sun faded, not sure if bottom needs anything, kind of scratched up. I guess power wash then some ArmorAll, will that work?

what do you guys think? paid $1500 for both ski (96 xp , 97 gtx) and double trailer. haven't got to the gtx yet, was told it ran last summer. i figured i got my moneys worth with just the xp and trailer, so i didnt even bother checking gtx compression. xp compression was 162 and 160.

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You did good, now before you put the new foot pads on would be a good time to clean and polish it up, If it were me I would strip the graphics off it, wet sand it, start at 1000 grit and end at 2000, then Meguires cutting compounds 91, 49 then 45 is what I use, new graphics from KRP for 95.00 or from pwcgraphics.com after graphics are on, I’ve used Meguires Flagship wax. All the Meguires products are available for good prices at Meguires direct. I noticed your handle bar pad looks to be in good condition. The bumpers can be cleaned up with acetone and a rag, followed up with Mother’s back to black trim restorer, make sure to do this before the new graphics go on because the acetone will destroy them. Personally I don’t do any cosmetics until the machine has proven to be a good runner.
 
Looks like you just need the red cap, don’t get it off amazon, they are to stiff. Seadoowarehouse.com or osdmarine
 
Few other items.
Get rid of the blue fuel line and yellow zipties.
Also remove that cheap charger. Only charge the battery out of the ski.
Find a rear PTO cover. ebay.
New grips. Those look gummy.
 
The hood looks to be faded also, bartenders friend soft scrub and a scotchbrite pad works good for that. I’ve found an old thread in here that describes how to restore the hood using cutting compounds but I haven’t tried it myself yet.
 
 
ski has about half tank of 2 stroke oil, i think it's quicksilver synthetic blend (found bottle in trailer box). should i replace it entirely with full synthetic? if i empty the tank first will that introduce air into the system? or should i just add new to the old? or just leave it?

Also, I already pumped out the old fuel last night, will use it in my cars.
 
If your going to switch brands of oil then you should empty the tank, empty the oil lines to the rotary valve and oil pump, get a new oil filter or I can’t see no reason why you can’t just clean the old oil filter with some simple green or similar product, rinse it out well and dry well with compressed air, it’s just a metal screen in the filter. Yes, you should be using full synthetic TC-API rated oil in that machine. You will need to bleed the oil pump with the screw and get the air out of the supply line to oil pump. Not hard. You probably should replace the small oil lines from the pump to intake while your doing it. I like the OEM lines from BRP as they are clear and definitely the right size and material. If you do opt for tygon the ID on those small oil lines is 3/32”
 
Be careful cleaning the oil filter. Some have a plastic screen. For $10 play it safe and replace. It’s a maintenance item and cheap.
 
Awesome deal I bought mine last spring from an old couple that hadn’t used them in years. I bought mine with a 93 Seadoo sp a double trailer and the 96 xp for 750$ talked them down from 1200. Mine gell coat was chalky like your. This is what it looked like that is an edited photo so it looks better than it was and here is what it looks like now. There an absolutely hoot would. As seen in my other photos I love to jump it and spin it around. Sounds like you got a great deal tooIMG_6055.jpegIMG_2468.jpegIMG_9693.jpegIMG_9369.jpeg
 
I paid 300.00 for 2 96XP’s and 1 single trailer but they are in pretty rough shape, I would happily take either deal that you guys got with them running over mine, but people are asking such ridiculous prices for them running around here that it left me little choice
 
O yeah
I paid 300.00 for 2 96XP’s and 1 single trailer but they are in pretty rough shape, I would happily take either deal that you guys got with them running over mine, but people are asking such ridiculous prices for them running around here that it left me little choice
that’s still not a bad deal. Mine didn’t run when I got them they needed battery’s carb work voltage regulator seat coves etc
 
O yeah

that’s still not a bad deal. Mine didn’t run when I got them they needed battery’s carb work voltage regulator seat coves etc
You did very well then, unless it’s a runner when I buy it, I expect to rebuild the carbs at a minimum. My deal could end up being very good, or so so, depending on what it ends up needing. I say it, because the one I probably won’t even attempt to fix, the engine came with it but the counter balance case had exploded. The one I plan on fixing is all there but I haven’t done anything with it yet, not even a compression test. But I need to own an X4 with the 787 to see what all the fuss is about
 
You did very well then, unless it’s a runner when I buy it, I expect to rebuild the carbs at a minimum. My deal could end up being very good, or so so, depending on what it ends up needing. I say it, because the one I probably won’t even attempt to fix, the engine came with it but the counter balance case had exploded. The one I plan on fixing is all there but I haven’t done anything with it yet, not even a compression test. But I need to own an X4 with the 787 to see what all the fuss is about
Yeah I did a compression test and they were good so that gave me confidence. I will say the 787 motor is very tuff if it’s got compression I would be she would run. But never know. I will say you hear that the x4 is so amazing but once you experience it your like the x4 is amazing. I absolutely love mine. The only thing I don’t care for is the small gas tank. But hey not a deal breaker for me and I plan to pick up a gtx or a gsx with a 787 to have for longer trips and exploring. But the x4 is amazing play haul
 
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