I am one lucky lady! Look what I found! 2004 Islandia

[Dr Honda]

OK. I thought (for some reason) that your boat had the pump re-worked, and it had the stainless liner in it. (most have been someone else) AND... if the static compression is 140 psi... that's not the issue.

Well.... Then we need to check to make sure the throttle is physically opening all the way, and check the timing to find that extra RPM up top. FYI: The #1 plug is the top starboard side. (drivers side)

I still need to dig into the wiring. Let me get some coffee, and I'll look.

 

[SeptemberC]

This east coast rain has got to stop or I'm going to have to get a full enclosure. LOL ️

 

[henryb]

Wow, you should consider moving to Canada, the weather has been absolutely spectacular for this northern climate!

 

[SeptemberC]

@ Dr Honda - we were out after dark this evening and I noticed that I don't have a light in the tach. So to recap, my hubby wired the new LED drain plugs into the stern light before the connection plug (navigation light switch). Tach stops working when I turn the nav light switch on to either first or second position. The lights for both the fuel gauge (which works) and the speedometer (which does not work) illuminate when switched on but NOT the tach. It was dark so I wasn't able to check to make sure the bulb in the tach looked good. It was new old stock. I'll try to check that tomorrow but I thought that maybe this might correlate to the other issue of the tach stopping to operate when the nav lights were switched on. And.... I think you are right (of course - lol) that it's resonation that is so loud. But I'm getting used to it. Anyone feel free to chime in on my weird electrical question.

 

[Dr Honda]

The lights are cool.

Sorry, I forgot to dig into that one for you. Unfortunately, I'm in Memphis working this week, and I don't have my islandia "Hull" book with me. But, shoot me a PM on Monday, and I will dig into it. (it's a strange one though)

 

[SeptemberC]

The only thing I can think of is the LEDs have some type of "driver" they call it. I'm betting it drops voltage. Now why that would would effect the tach I dunno.... Wiring schematic is definitely needed. I'll send us a reminder on Monday.
Everybody enjoy your Memorial Day weekend!

 

[Dr Honda]

ok... just to verify... the tach light stops working... or the actual gauge stops?

 

[SeptemberC]

The light NEVER works and when the NAV lights are turned on the gauge stops working completely.

 

[Dr Honda]

OK....

But unfortunately... there's no tie between those 2 things. Obviously, the lights in the gauge is tied into the NAV switch. But the power for the gauge is on the Purple wire. (lights are on the Blue) AND... both are on different fuses. (So totally separated)

So... put a meter on the purple wire on the back of the gauge, and turn on the NAV lights... and see if the power drops out.

 

[SeptemberC]

Will do and report back to you.
By any chance did you watch the video I posted about it?

 

[Dr Honda]

about the gauge... no.... where is it? (Or do you mean about the water safety? that one yes)

 

[SeptemberC]

about the gauge... no.... where is it? (Or do you mean about the water safety? that one yes)

https://youtu.be/6i8Br-54Kx8

The gauge

 

[SeptemberC]

https://youtu.be/6i8Br-54Kx8

The gauge

No voltage drop at the tachometer when NAV light was turned on :facepalm:

It's gremlins I tell ya!

 

[Dr Honda]

Well......


There's nothing that should be crossing. If the gauge power is still on... that means it's losing it's signal. But that signal wire isn't tied into the lights at all.

So... let's try this....


Take the bulb out of the tach, and leave the light wires hanging. The only thing I can think of is there is an internal short.

 

[SeptemberC]

THAT'S A GREAT IDEA! When I turn the NAV lights on then the light should come on in the Tach. It DOES NOT so..... Your theory might just be right. (As if I ever doubted you.) the only problem I think is getting to the bulb. The back of the tach is sealed I think.
I'll report back to you tomorrow.

 

[henryb]

If I remember correctly, there is one center bolt on the back of the tach. Removing that bolt will give you access to the light bulb. Give it a try.

 

[SeptemberC]

Happy Saturday!
We spent last week at Lake Norris (New Tazewell, TN). Had a great time with family. Of course 6 days straight on the water are gonna lead to one (or more) issues right? that was about 30 feet of rope that I sucked up during idle. Luckily we were right at the dock. (Not my rope!)

I have a little more to add to my "power / speed" questions...

For the first time I had 7 adults on my Islandia and there was no way it was going to plane out. Also when trying to tow a tube pulling a 140lb person when attempting to turn to whip them like I would in my Challenger I would lose so much speed that it made it almost impossible. So... I'm thinking I need an impeller/wear ring change.
Please reply with your recommendations to...

*What impeller would you recommend?
*Which wear ring is recommended? Stainless Steel?
*Does anyone know of a way to raise the tow point? Whether it be a telescoping tow pole or pylon. ANY IDEAS?

 

[henryb]

So... I'm thinking I need an impeller/wear ring change.
Please reply with your recommendations to...

*What impeller would you recommend?
*Which wear ring is recommended? Stainless Steel?

I don't have any direct aftermarket recommendations, but I might be inclined to get your existing impeller and wear-ring checked out for how much gap you have, is there scratches in the wall? Dings on the impeller... That kind of thing.

Essentially, try and determine how much "wear" there is between the edges of the impeller and the walls of the wear-ring. This is where you get the thrust, the tighter the tolerance, the better the propulsion!

You might just need to get another factory set installed, not that's is a small job... But it might be the best balance of power and speed! On the aftermarket you might be able to find an impeller with more pitch, which will give you more top end speed, but you will lose out on acceleration (ie. power). And visa versa, one will less pitch will give you more grunt for pulling skiers/tubers, but lose out on top speed!

*Does anyone know of a way to raise the tow point? Whether it be a telescoping tow pole or pylon. ANY IDEAS?

Typically, taller ski-pylon poles will require a tri-pod type of assembly. Where the pole is cleated to the floor and the tri-pod arms extend back and down to the side-walls of the boat. There are a number of aftermarket products out there, you just need to find one that fits your budget and meets your height requirements and is easy to install and take down.., as they typically get in the way!

Another option is to get a wake board tower, these typically are permanent fixtures, but I think there are some that are removable. Problem with those is they will get in the way of your factory Bimini top set up.

No easy solutions here, it's a matter of how much you need more height vs the inconvenience of after-market products. Good luck and let us know what you find out there!

 

[Dr Honda]

I thought your pump was in good shape?? (didn't you post pics before?)


As far as getting up on plane, with a heavy load... was everyone trying to sit under the Bimini top?? (in the back of the boat) If that's the case... then someone has to move up front, to get the nose down. On hot summer days... that's a problem with my boat. I'll have 5 adults all in the back, and it will sit nose high unless I go full throttle, and force it.

If they were spaced out... then there is an issue with the drive somewhere. OR... are we still 500 RPM low up top?? (are you hitting at least 5800 rpm?) If you are still low... and the timing hasn't been checked... then you are about to spend A LOT of $$$ for something that may not be needed.



Now... if your pump does need some love... then I would recommend putting in the stainless liner, and any impeller will be OK. I have a factory impeller and it does better than I expected. I've only gotten some broken reports on the Solas. The design should make it better... but it's vague. (no hard proof) But, it's probably cheaper than an OEM if you are buying it outright. There is a "High-Skew" OEM, and the river guys say they are night and day for getting on plane. But, I haven't seen a report in a recreational boat. (it may kill some top speed)

 

[Dr Honda]

Oh... and as far as whipping a tube, here's some thoughts....


1) You have a boat that weighs a solid 1000 Lbs more, and you probably had another 600~800 lbs worth of passengers... and have around the same power. Because of that... it will drop in a corner.

2) How big is the tube??? I have 3 tubes, and I use the right one for the job. I have a single for someone who wants a trill ride. A double for a little more balance... and a big triple to keep the kids safe. Unless there are only a couple people in the boat... I doubt I could "Whip" the triple.

3) How long is the rope?? A long rope is hard to start the whip.

4) How did you attack the whip?? If you crank the wheel... then the tube will wind up inside, and going slow. Start the turn gradual, to get them on the outside... add power... and then start to tighten it up.

5) Raising the tow point will help. This one is really on you... but you could get a pylon for an outboard... or there are some thread in styles out there. (the newer versions of the islandia came with one, but I don't think the parts are available anymore)



OK... with a big ass boat like this... it's all about using the right equipment... and finesse. You need to use the throttle, and steering together, to keep yourself on plane in the corner. Also... tell your passengers to move up front !!! With the weight forward, you will stay on plane at lower speeds. AND... if you have a 140 rider... and they want a trill ride... then put them on a SMALL tube !! The drag of a big tube will make things boring.

 

[SeptemberC]

See my reply below in red

I thought your pump was in good shape?? (didn't you post pics before?) YES I DID POST PICS BUT THEY WEREN'T THAT GREAT


As far as getting up on plane, with a heavy load... was everyone trying to sit under the Bimini top?? (in the back of the boat) If that's the case... then someone has to move up front, to get the nose down. On hot summer days... that's a problem with my boat. I'll have 5 adults all in the back, and it will sit nose high unless I go full throttle, and force it. NO! UNFORTUNATELY I HAD EVERYONE UP FRONT AND THE BIMINI WAS NOT UP

If they were spaced out... then there is an issue with the drive somewhere. OR... are we still 500 RPM low up top?? (are you hitting at least 5800 rpm?) If you are still low... and the timing hasn't been checked... then you are about to spend A LOT of $$$ for something that may not be needed. TIMING HAS STILL NOT BEEN CHECKED BUT RPM'S SEEM TO BE OK. WHEN I WAS TRYING TO GET IT ON PLANE I WAS HITTING 6000 RPM. WITH MY NORMAL 4 TO 5 PEOPLE I AM STILL AT 5400 RPM.



Now... if your pump does need some love... then I would recommend putting in the stainless liner, and any impeller will be OK. I have a factory impeller and it does better than I expected. I've only gotten some broken reports on the Solas. The design should make it better... but it's vague. (no hard proof) But, it's probably cheaper than an OEM if you are buying it outright. There is a "High-Skew" OEM, and the river guys say they are night and day for getting on plane. But, I haven't seen a report in a recreational boat. (it may kill some top speed)

 

[SeptemberC]

Replies in red below.

Oh... and as far as whipping a tube, here's some thoughts....


1) You have a boat that weighs a solid 1000 Lbs more, and you probably had another 600~800 lbs worth of passengers... and have around the same power. Because of that... it will drop in a corner. BECAUSE I ALREADY KNEW THAT I WAS HAVING POWER ISSUES I HAD ONLY 2 PASSENGERS WHEN TOWING.

2) How big is the tube??? I have 3 tubes, and I use the right one for the job. I have a single for someone who wants a trill ride. A double for a little more balance... and a big triple to keep the kids safe. Unless there are only a couple people in the boat... I doubt I could "Whip" the triple. YES I WAS USING A DOUBLE SIZE TUBE WITH 1 RIDER. NONE OF MY RIDERS WEIGH OVER 150 LBS. I DID FIGURE OUT MAKING QUICK SLIGHT TURNS I COULD GET THEM OUTSIDE THE WAKE AND THEN MAKE HUGE TURNS TO WHIP THEM SLIGHTLY BUT I HAD TO STAY AT FULL THROTTLE. I TRIED PLAYING WITH ADJUSTING MY THROTTLE BUT I WOULD LOSE TOO MUCH SPEED.

3) How long is the rope?? A long rope is hard to start the whip. I WAS USING A STANDARD LENGTH ROPE. I DIDN'T KNOW THERE WAS A DIFFERENT SIZES AVAILABLE. BUT I DID ADD A 5FT EXTENSTION TO TRY AND GET THEM BEYOND THE SPRAY OF THE JET. WATER BB'S TO THE FACE HURT - LOL

4) How did you attack the whip?? If you crank the wheel... then the tube will wind up inside, and going slow. Start the turn gradual, to get them on the outside... add power... and then start to tighten it up.

5) Raising the tow point will help. This one is really on you... but you could get a pylon for an outboard... or there are some thread in styles out there. (the newer versions of the islandia came with one, but I don't think the parts are available anymore) I HAD READ THAT TOO BUT YOU ARE RIGHT THAT PARTS ARE NOT AVAILABLE. I'D LIKE TO BE ABLE TO HAVE A TELESCOPING ONE. ANOTHER 6 TO 8 INCHES HIGHER WOULD MAKE A DIFFERENCE I THINK



OK... with a big ass boat like this... it's all about using the right equipment... and finesse. You need to use the throttle, and steering together, to keep yourself on plane in the corner. Also... tell your passengers to move up front !!! With the weight forward, you will stay on plane at lower speeds. AND... if you have a 140 rider... and they want a trill ride... then put them on a SMALL tube !! The drag of a big tube will make things boring. I DEFINATELY NEED TO GET A SLIGHTLY SMALLER TUBE. MY IMPELLER LOOKS GOOD WITH NO CHIPS OR DINGS SO IS THERE A CHANCE THAT I COULD JUST NEED A NEW WEAR RING? I READ SOMEWHERE THAT SOMEONE USED AN EXAMPLE OF "IF THERE IS MORE SPACE THAN THE THICKNESS OF A DIME BETWEEN IMPELLER & WEAR RING THEN YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE WEAR RING"

My impeller looks good but my wear ring does have scratches in it. Nothing deep though. Does anyone have part numbers for both impeller options and information on the wear ring replacement part numbers? What about stainless versus the stock aluminum (but this would be the entire housing correct)? Tony, can you give me more info on the SS LINER? Also, specialty tools required for this job? Will I find instruction in my shop manual?

 

[SeptemberC]

Would this be my pump serial number?

 

[Dr Honda]

Would this be my pump serial number?

View attachment 35833

yes.

The stock ring is 856814A 2
The stock impeller is 877326T
The high Skew impeller is 883796T01


A stainless ring has to be installed into your old aluminum housing by a shop. But it's generally less $$... and it's more durable.


Yes... there are some special tools needed to get the impeller off. It's a deep socket, with a rubber insert so you don't damage the drive shaft. (where the stator seal will ride) And yes, the manual will walk you though the procedure to remove the ring, and impeller.

 

[SeptemberC]

yes.

The stock ring is 856814A 2
The stock impeller is 877326T
The high Skew impeller is 883796T01


A stainless ring has to be installed into your old aluminum housing by a shop. But it's generally less $$... and it's more durable.


Yes... there are some special tools needed to get the impeller off. It's a deep socket, with a rubber insert so you don't damage the drive shaft. (where the stator seal will ride) And yes, the manual will walk you though the procedure to remove the ring, and impeller.

Thanks Doc. I'm having my mechanic check pricing for me now on the kit. Since I don't have any problems unless I'm loaded down everyone will just have to be happy with what it is this summer, which is still awesome with all of the space and amenities! This will be a fall project. Where might I find that socket?
For investigative purposes do you know where I might find the SS insert? There is a machine shop here in town near me. I might be able to get a quote from them. OR would this be something that I would need to send off to have installed at a specialty shop?