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Helpppp! Cruising at 30+ mph and Engine Dies!
- Thread starter Mike Brown
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rcguy
Active Member
I have a 2008 Challenger.......Am I safe from the bad valves? These Sea-Doo's are becoming a nightmare. I should be able to call Sea-Doo headquarters with the serial number and they should have records and tell me what they assembled. I should not be expected to tear the engine apart too find out what series number valves are installed in the motor they manufactured. Mike just spent large $'s on his Challenger and is still having big problems.
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DLB
New Member
i have been reading everything i can about this issue for the past week or so. it seems that in 2006 and 2007 some 4tecs still had the hollow valves. mine unfortunately does. but 2008 has solid valves. so you are ok. to see for yourself you have to take the valve cover off and look with a magnifying glass to be able to see the numbers stamped on the top of the valve stems. taking the valve cover off is easy, just 8 bolts right on top. seeing the numbers is the hard part. if it begins with 72 then no good. 75 is good. also not to make you go crazy but there is also an issue with flywheel bolts that mine is affected by. i havent had any issues yet but i am going to talk to the shop that i use on wednesday morning and see how much to do a head exchange and put in the upgraded flywheel bolts. i definately dont want my engine to blow up.
Keep in mind that people come here when they have problems. That can make issues seem worse than they are.
Also, I run the CanDoo Pro in a Windows 7 VMWare Fusion session on my Mac. No issues at all.
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Also, I run the CanDoo Pro in a Windows 7 VMWare Fusion session on my Mac. No issues at all.
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Mike Brown
New Member
Yes it does... After 10 hours it's goes back into the shop
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pete63
Active Member
no use just clearing the fault, you have fix the problem too!!!
This is true in most cases. The one exception is, when you have a bad battery. It can cause all kind of ghost type codes that become real as the machine thinks there is a real issue. I recently had a shorted battery throw 11 codes. All came back to my IBR and ECU. I tested the components and they were working properly. Replaced the battery and cleared the codes. So far all is good...
Mike Brown
New Member
Hello everyone! Bad Crankshaft Sensor! I'm going to change it soon! Will this finally be the end of my boat breaking every week? I really hope so! To be continued...
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ocod
Well-Known Member
Dammmmm!
Never ends huh?
I'm sure outing was memorable.
If you don't have it or friends with a boat get Seatow.
Well worth the $184 a year and covers you while you towing trailer. Boat or ski.
https://www.seatow.com/membership/
You went to place off NW 27th and 112 expressway. Not the place way down south in kendall?
First place is dealer and much better than place down South.
You should plan to come down South again and ride with coastie and idoo3.
Will make for a fun GTG
DLB
New Member
i copied this from a PM that i received when i was researching. my question was... what would shop labor time be on R&R only?
It takes 1.5 hours to get the coolant drained, J pipe out of the way and the air intake off and set aside without breaking anything if it's all coming apart easily. From there you have to pin the cam and crank in place, mark and remove cam sprocket and chain and pull the head.
Reverse procedure takes a little more time, you have to get the cam and chain back on and aligned exactly where it came off, torque specs etc. you have more time in the details going back together plus any good dealer is going to have time on the ticket for a final water test or tank test with the pump under load.
3.5-5 hours would be fair, depends how the job goes some things come apart nicely and others dare you to destroy it in the process and fight you the whole way.
It takes 1.5 hours to get the coolant drained, J pipe out of the way and the air intake off and set aside without breaking anything if it's all coming apart easily. From there you have to pin the cam and crank in place, mark and remove cam sprocket and chain and pull the head.
Reverse procedure takes a little more time, you have to get the cam and chain back on and aligned exactly where it came off, torque specs etc. you have more time in the details going back together plus any good dealer is going to have time on the ticket for a final water test or tank test with the pump under load.
3.5-5 hours would be fair, depends how the job goes some things come apart nicely and others dare you to destroy it in the process and fight you the whole way.
rcguy
Active Member
So what happened Mike?.. Did you get it fixed? Or what? No answer in over three weeks. You're a lousy story teller. I bet you're a Yamaha salesman.
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Mike Brown
New Member
Hahahahaha... Sorry, still didn't get it fixed yet... Replaced camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor is fine... Thinking ECU now... Gonna swap it with a working one and then do a water test!
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