Getting volts on black yellow kill wire?!

[don't sink]

In a nutshell- found had bad Switch Box- bought 2 new ones - [must be replaced in pairs to keep biased] CDI has you do a test before installing as described below

Disconnect yellow black kill wires and check for volts- even a small amount will fry the Switch Box- I found .02 on my black yellow to key switch and 1.34 coming from bk/yl wire from ECU.

Disconnected black yellow from ignition- volts still there and found .02 coming from bk/yl wire coming out of key switch

Any thoughts on where this is coming from- harness looks good- can't see any frayed wires.

 

[Dr Honda]

If you have an auto ranging meter... it's probably just trying to read on open circuit. At 2-onehundredths of a volt... I wouldn't worry too much.

Also... I bet if there was a tiny load... it would go to zero. Basically... even digital electronics will have some amount of bleed-back.


With that said... let me look over the diagram on your engine.

 

[Dr Honda]

OK... just wanted to double check things....



The Black/yellow is the kill, and at the engine it's hooked to the ECU and the 2 switch boxes. (that's all) Then it goes up to the helm, and is hooked to the tether, and key. And, as you probably know... it's a simple "Ground to kill" type system.


So... I would open the wire at each point... and check the individual items for power. Also... DO NOT use an auto ranging meter. Checking over electronics like this... it's almost better to use an old crappy meter, since the resistance isn't as high.

I'm assuming that when you checked the wire coming up from the engine... the old (supposedly bad) switch boxes were already disconnected.


If the power is coming from the ECU... we may need to get someone else with a 210 to verify if there's a small amount of bleed voltage. But personally... if I saw the voltage at the ECU... I would grab a small 1 M ohm resistor, and tie it to ground. I'm guessing the voltage will go to zero, and your meter is just seeing residual voltage. If it doesn't go to zero... the 1 M ohm resistor has enough resistance that it won't allow enough current to cause a "Short" and damage anything. (heck, it's less than a simple ground when you shut off the key)




OK... now we have to address the hiding monster. In MOST of these boats... there's an item known as the throttle guardian. Over the years, it's moved location, and it's not on Seadoo's, or Mercury's wiring diagrams. Most of the time it's in the helm. it basically keeps you from revving the engine too hard in neutral, or reverse. The issue is... IT SUCKS !!!!!! when it fails, it causes all kinds of problems. I would spend a little time, and find it... AND KILL IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (lol)

I personally removed mine the day my boat came home. But, since they do cause issues... it may have already been removed... but it's worth the time to try to find it.

 

[don't sink]

Ok here we go- yes using a digtal in volt setting- I did try to use an auto meter and that was not the tool to use as you said- crazy readings.

the .02 I am not concerned about but 1.34 is more than enough to kill my $461 switch boxes and I think this might have killed my dead one.

I like the resistor idea but like the other 210 owner to check better- if they don't have any volts than I have an issue!

Christ! You had to tell me about that throttle thing!? Ugh! That wouldn't be causing an electrical issue would it or are you just letting me know about another issue?

Thanks for your help!

 

[don't sink]

I'm assuming that when you checked the wire coming up from the engine... the old (supposedly bad) switch boxes were already disconnected.


Got me thinking- are you saying the bk/yl or ALL WIRES? Currently I only disconnected yl/bk.

I will try to disconnect bad box entirely to see if that changes anything

 

[don't sink]

narrowed it down to the bk/yl wire coming off the ECU- 1.34 volts. Tried unplugging all other colored wires and it does not change voltage- strange

 

[Dr Honda]

narrowed it down to the bk/yl wire coming off the ECU- 1.34 volts. Tried unplugging all other colored wires and it does not change voltage- strange

OK... at least it's isolated.


Henry has a 210... we need to get him to check.

Calling [MENTION=71507]henryb[/MENTION]

 

[don't sink]

I would be extremely greatful if he could check the voltage. I am assuming you know him so can you ask? I am basically stuck with no options till this is verified.

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[henryb]

Sure thing, I will pull out my Fluke meter and see what the black/yellow wire is reading.


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[henryb]

I pulled the round connector apart that has 2 black with yellow stripe wires ... Volt meter reads 0.01 volts.


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[henryb]

Please note that my one of my switch boxes might be faulting, as I'm only getting spark to my starboard bank of cylinders... It's an intermittent electrical problem that I've been trying to figure out all summer. Today it is not so intermittent!! Probably going to trailer it into the shop so they can track it down if in fact something has completely failed (replaced one switch box last year... Looks like it might be the same one?)


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[Dr Honda]

That's ok right now... he just wants to know if there's any voltage on the wire coming out of the ECU. He's burnt up a couple switch boxes, and suspects a voltage leak from the ECU may be the cause.

SO... if your ECU is very low... then that indicates a possible problem for Don'tSink.

Thanks for the help on this one. :cheers:

 

[don't sink]

OK just to be sure it was there bk/yl coming out of ECU and that was with the ignition turned on? I also get .01 with key off. if so......I'm screwe?d! LOL!

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[henryb]

Nope, key was off... Let me check with key on!


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[don't sink]

Just saw Henrys post above...forgot to add he needs to disconnect both yl/bk wires from switch boxes since when they go bad will cause bad voltage readings. Henry, from what I have researched the boxes must be replaced in pairs to keep biased. Chances are your bad box has damaged the good one by now. Sucks but that's what manufacturer says is a must do.

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[henryb]

Ugly! I checked back one deeper... So I disconnected the connector coming right out of the ECU... With the key on I get 0.4 volts.


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[don't sink]

Crap for me and crap for you since we are now both in dry dock! Thank you very much for doing this test. I was hoping for 1.34 volts! Thanks again

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[Dr Honda]

Hummmmmmmm...........................................................................................


Just thinking on this one.................


So, the wire in question is a "Kill" wire from the ECU... right?? Why do we even need it? Here's the deal...

1) The ECU on this engine isn't doing a whole lot. (agreed?) It's a carb engine... and the switchboxes, and CDI's control the ignition.

2) There is a kill wire on the key, that actually does the shut down.

3) There's a kill on the tether also for emergency's.



So... because of that... pull the black/yellow wire out of the ECU, and the problem is solved.

 

[don't sink]

I was thinking why do we need it also! So I need to wire both switch boxes, key and tether together. At this point it seems like a logical step. At worst boat won't start. Thanks!

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[Dr Honda]

They should already be wired together. Just disconnect the bl/yl wire from the ECU.

 

[don't sink]

So.....today was the big day- installed new switch boxes- did NOT wire the ECU and the boat ran and stopped fine without the ECU. But that was about the highlight of the day! No power above 1/2 throttle- worse than before with bad switch box!

solid wires to one switch box and striped to another box from the stator right??

Driving me and my tech crazy! I am going to install a new set of plugs tomorrow- need to know what others are using as I can't find the correct plug number anywhere and am thinking maybe I have the wrong plugs??

Also- Henry...yes...I'm going to ask you another favor! Can you confirm the color of the wires on your coils from top to bottom are:
Green
Green with white
Green with red

These possibly are wired wrong?

Getting spark on 5 cylinders too- that's after installing a new coil. This boat is laughing at us at this point!

 

[henryb]

Spark plugs are NGK BUZ8H


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[don't sink]

Henry pulls through again! Unfortunately those are what I have now so my wrong plug theory is gone. Going to replace anyways since we have been fouling and beating the crap out them while testing. Found Autolite 2852 are the same plug but $4 less each!

 

[Dr Honda]

Did you check the stator yet?

 

[don't sink]

Can't remember! Been through so much on this thing. Both Stator and trigger were replace last year so I would hope they are fine!

Give me the quick test specs- how many volts am I looking for when I crank? Blue and red right?