So I hooked the battery up and ran a jumper wire from the post of the coil to a bolt on the engine. That gave me 12v between 3-17 and 3-26. Now if I hit the start button I get one beep. No gauges or anything.
97 GSX (787) electrical troubleshooting
- Thread starter 93XP+96GSX
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artr
Well-Known Member
No. The MPEM should be supplying ground to the ignition coil/rear electrical box through 3-17. If it is not then maybe a problem internal to MPEM. You could check a few things. There are a few grounds going to the MPEM through other pins that show a black wires in your diagrams (2-2,2-16,2-17,2-25, other black wires?). Check all those for continuity to battery negative. You could also remove connector 3 from MPEM and see if the connection for 3-17 looks dirty/corroded. You should probably remove the battery connections before removing connector 3 and cleaning pins. If you can not determine why 3=17 is not supplying ground it maybe a problem with the MPEM (maybe caused by the faulty VTS). I'll be out for a while but will check back later.
I did, I get one long beep (occasionally) when I put it on. I have to move it around for a while to get it to beep sometimes. I cleaned the contact points and that made no difference. The advanced self diagnostics gave two short beeps. I had irregular results when testing the key before as stated in my original post, however, the gauges still don’t come on at all and I can only get these beeps when I use the jumper wire to bridge the coil and the engine ground.
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jemery.wa
Member
This may be a dumb question or I may have missed something but, how many wires do you have connected to the negative side of your battery? the GTX (which looks to share similar coil boxes and other stuff) has 2, one that goes to the starter (or block) and one smaller wire (18ga?) that goes into that coil/solenoid box, without that wire you will get nothing from the Mpem/Cdi.
I only have one, where does this wire connect to?
2-2, 2-16, 2-17, 2-18, and 2-19 are all empty on the connector. On the diagram it says battery 1 battery2 next to those so I’m not sure if those are for a double battery setup or something? 2-7 (dess), 2-10 (VTS switch) 1-25(speedo and info center, and 3-4 (engine temp switch) all have no continuity to the negative battery post. 3-24, and 3-2 both had continuity to the negative post. That pretty much covers all ground wires.
I appreciate the info, I’m not seeing this on my wiring diagram tho.
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artr
Well-Known Member
The 96 and 97 GTXs have a small black secondary wire on the battery negative that goes directly to the rear electrical box for ground. 97 gsx is different.
The speedometer gets power from the purple and black wires from the MPEM, 1-24 and 1-25. These wires daisy chain to the infocenter to power it. If those wires don't power up when the start button is pressed, the gauges will not activate.
Good that the diagnostic responded. This shows your MPEM is not dead. You need to test the DESS post , its wiring and key to figure out the problem.
The speedometer gets power from the purple and black wires from the MPEM, 1-24 and 1-25. These wires daisy chain to the infocenter to power it. If those wires don't power up when the start button is pressed, the gauges will not activate.
Good that the diagnostic responded. This shows your MPEM is not dead. You need to test the DESS post , its wiring and key to figure out the problem.
Yes, when I originally hooked the battery back up after running the jumper wire between the coil and the engine I forgot to unhook them and it immediately blew the 5a fuse. They are now unhooked
I did all the testing I know of on the dess key and post wiring with the results in my original post as well.
artr
Well-Known Member
I never had a DESS post problem but I think the testing is straight forward. If you disconnect the 3 wires from the post that come into the MPEM, the black wire should short (0 ohms) to the ring on the post, the white-gray stripe wire should short to the tip of the post and it should be an open circuit between the black and black-yellow stripe wires. When the key is on the post there should be a short between the black and black-yellow stripe wires. You reported a fluctuation in resistance reading with the key on between black and black-yellow indicating a bad magnetic switch in the DESS post or a weak magnet in your key. You should probably replace the DESS post.
The key seems to be in bad shape as well. If I bought a new key could I just get one off Ebay and it would be good to get programmed or does it need to be bought from Sea Doo? Also where could I find somewhere to reprogram it? If I tried a new DESS post first I’m assuming it wouldn’t need reprogrammed since the chip in the key would still be the same.
artr
Well-Known Member
If you test the DESS post as stated above and it does not pass then replace that first. The key seemed to give you some responses in your testing so it may work on a new DESS post. A new key needs to be programmed by someone with equipment and you will need to send the MPEM to them to do it. You can call Westside Powersports and find out costs. Do you know if the key you have ever worked or started the ski?
I have no idea, I bought this ski and a 93 XP on a double trailer and was only told neither of them run. Figured I’d see if I could get them going. I just started a new job this week so I haven’t worked on it all week. The DESS post I ordered came in today so I should be able to try it out tomorrow.
The DESS post replacement unfortunately didn’t help, it still doesn’t recognize the key.
Yes, one long beep when installing the key and 2 short ones in advanced diagnostics. My question would be is it possible for this to be an mpem issue and the key is fine?
I’m gonna send the mpem and key to west side powersports this week. Thanks for the help thus far, ill keep you updated.
Update: The key was not programmed to the MPEM. Got the new key programmed and it cranks and sparks. Unfortunately the crank seals are shot though, cleared the cylinders out and ran it for a little but it eventually just hydro locks with oil again. The gauges never did come on even while running and it still did nothing without running a ground between the block and the coil but I have no plans to rebuild the motor anyway.
Thanks for the help!
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