Full 951 Rebuild - Rusty flywheel, stator and pickup - 1999 GTX

[BensGTXFun]

Purchased a 1999 GTX limited with a solenoid click issue and no start for relatively cheap - inside and outside the ski looks great for a 20 year old ski.

Removed the starter and was rusty and would not spin at all. Replaced the starter and it would not engage the bendix gear.

Took apart the flywheel cover and it is completely rusted inside (see pics)

Engine turns freely and is not siezed with spark plugs out. Flywheel also turns freely.

My question is should I cut my losses and sell for parts or wire brush the s@#& out of it and use PB Blaster and replace the stator and pickup trigger. Wanted to cap the oil pump anyways and switch to premix for longevity of the engine. So don't care about the oil pump.

Please any advice? It's getting hot here in Arizona and would enjoy using this in the next month hopefully.

 

[Ckrawiec]

Before just blindly replacing parts, TEST them. Get the shop manual (free download) and follow the procedures.

Of course, clean up everything.

Aftermarket starters are JUNK, re-built OEMs are better (replacement brush kits are inexpensive and relatively easy to install).

It is a myth to cap the oil injection system and switch to pre-mix for longevity.....you'll just end up spending more on oil and you'll never get the mixing proportions consistently correct. The oil injection systems are pretty robust on the Seadoos....there is no logical point to going pre-mix.

 

[etemplet]

Remove the flywheel and grease the starter bearing that is in the engine case and inspect the crankshaft seal. Clean everything up as best you can and pay close attention to all wiring in there. Good idea to disassemble the plug and clean the pins, reliablity being the key. Get is looking as good as you can.

I also agree with Ckrawiec, clean everything up and test it. Parts are most likely good.

You'll probably need a starter bendix. Notice I didn't say "new" starter bendix. LOL Good Luck

 

[BensGTXFun]

Before just blindly replacing parts, TEST them. Get the shop manual (free download) and follow the procedures.

Of course, clean up everything.

Aftermarket starters are JUNK, re-built OEMs are better (replacement brush kits are inexpensive and relatively easy to install).

It is a myth to cap the oil injection system and switch to pre-mix for longevity.....you'll just end up spending more on oil and you'll never get the mixing proportions consistently correct. The oil injection systems are pretty robust on the Seadoos....there is no logical point to going pre-mix.

 

[BensGTXFun]

Thank you Ckrawiec, the starter was solid and wouldn't move all. I kept it and ill try rebuilding it at later time once I go through the rest of the ski.

The previous owner told me that the oil reservoir had to be replaced and there was gunky oil sitting on the bottom. He gave me the bottle of oil he was filling the ski which is a tcw3....I understand seadoos shouldn't use that as why I am a bit concerned with the pump.. Won't a bottle that measures the premix be pretty accurate for just mixing with a 5 gallon tank?

Thanks again!

 

[BensGTXFun]

Remove the flywheel and grease the starter bearing that is in the engine case and inspect the crankshaft seal. Clean everything up as best you can and pay close attention to all wiring in there. Good idea to disassemble the plug and clean the pins, reliablity being the key. Get is looking as good as you can.

I also agree with Ckrawiec, clean everything up and test it. Parts are most likely good.

You'll probably need a starter bendix. Notice I didn't say "new" starter bendix. LOL Good Luck

Thank you etemplet! I'll follow up with the "cleaning efforts and pictures"! Would cleaning everything with a wire brush and PB blaster damage the stator or anything? Want to minimize any damage I might cause to the efforts!

 

[Ckrawiec]

Thank you Ckrawiec, the starter was solid and wouldn't move all. I kept it and ill try rebuilding it at later time once I go through the rest of the ski.

The previous owner told me that the oil reservoir had to be replaced and there was gunky oil sitting on the bottom. He gave me the bottle of oil he was filling the ski which is a tcw3....I understand seadoos shouldn't use that as why I am a bit concerned with the pump.. Won't a bottle that measures the premix be pretty accurate for just mixing with a 5 gallon tank?

Thanks again!

Thank you etemplet! I'll follow up with the "cleaning efforts and pictures"! Would cleaning everything with a wire brush and PB blaster damage the stator or anything? Want to minimize any damage I might cause to the efforts!

The oil reservoirs MAY/TEND to crack along the seams.....that is not an unknown problem. Repairs can be made or replacement (to your hearts content). Oil grommets should be replaced as they get old and leak. TCW3 is definately the wrong type of oil for these machines.

A Seadoo engine needs oil for 2 purposes.....oil gets burned in the combustion chambers with the oil injection system installed (the oil will get sucked in as the engine demands). Going pre-mix just eliminates the "metering" therefore oil just gets burned as a function of the fuel getting consumed. The mixing ratios will get "bunged up" if you fill up at a gas dock and try to dump in the correct amount of oil into the fuel tank ....the consistency ratio is therefore subject to change, etc.

The oil reservoir also supplies oil into the rotary valve chamber, so you can't eliminate the oil tank and it needs to be kept up with oil (which doesn't get consumed if you remove the oil pump....blah, blah, blah). If you do go pre-mix and notice your oil level dropping, the oil is leaking into the engine....crankshaft seals are most likely bad/going bad.

I'd be judicious in the use of wire brushing / PB Blasting up the nasty stuff but I doubt you'd hurt anything so long as you don't go hog wild in there.....start gentle and adjust accordingly.

 

[BensGTXFun]

Remove the flywheel and grease the starter bearing that is in the engine case and inspect the crankshaft seal. Clean everything up as best you can and pay close attention to all wiring in there. Good idea to disassemble the plug and clean the pins, reliablity being the key. Get is looking as good as you can.

I also agree with Ckrawiec, clean everything up and test it. Parts are most likely good.

You'll probably need a starter bendix. Notice I didn't say "new" starter bendix. LOL Good Luck

Too Late... Already bought a "New" Bendix before opening up this area of the ski.....might just return it if I can "fix" the old rusted one lol

 

[BensGTXFun]

The oil reservoirs MAY/TEND to crack along the seams.....that is not an unknown problem. Repairs can be made or replacement (to your hearts content). Oil grommets should be replaced as they get old and leak. TCW3 is definately the wrong type of oil for these machines.

A Seadoo engine needs oil for 2 purposes.....oil gets burned in the combustion chambers with the oil injection system installed (the oil will get sucked in as the engine demands). Going pre-mix just eliminates the "metering" therefore oil just gets burned as a function of the fuel getting consumed. The mixing ratios will get "bunged up" if you fill up at a gas dock and try to dump in the correct amount of oil into the fuel tank ....the consistency ratio is therefore subject to change, etc.

The oil reservoir also supplies oil into the rotary valve chamber, so you can't eliminate the oil tank and it needs to be kept up with oil (which doesn't get consumed if you remove the oil pump....blah, blah, blah). If you do go pre-mix and notice your oil level dropping, the oil is leaking into the engine....crankshaft seals are most likely bad/going bad.

I'd be judicious in the use of wire brushing / PB Blasting up the nasty stuff but I doubt you'd hurt anything so long as you don't go hog wild in there.....start gentle and adjust accordingly.

Now I'm having second thoughts on the premix situation......Might just stick to the oil pump. Thanks for the info.

Will it be possible to do all this while the engine is still in the ski. I have a cherry picker to pull the engine out and make my life easier, but I do not have an alignment tool once I put it back in... those things are super pricey for a metal plate and shaft.....

 

[Ckrawiec]

Now I'm having second thoughts on the premix situation......Might just stick to the oil pump. Thanks for the info.

Will it be possible to do all this while the engine is still in the ski. I have a cherry picker to pull the engine out and make my life easier, but I do not have an alignment tool once I put it back in... those things are super pricey for a metal plate and shaft.....

Everything is doable with engine in the hull.....may not be easier but certainly do-able (short of full re-builds). I've never pulled my engine and my '96 ski has sunk (80% submerged) for an indefinite period of time. Still runs today though, they may be finicky but they are tough (if you take decent care of them)!

 

[etemplet]

I've done a hell of a lot of work on these skis as well while leaving the engine in place. While you have your head and shoulders inside the engine compartment trying to maneuver the wrenches and you are staring at 3 bolts and that's all that is needed to pull the engine..... you think about it. LOL I leave them all if if all I am doing is a top end. The 951 is the most difficult to me.

Be smart use the new Bendix. You'll know what's in there and you won't want to do it twice believe me.

 

[etemplet]

Easier and cheaper to leave the oil pump off at this point.... lots easier. You're talking about putting the whole system back together from scratch. I'ts pretty nice to have on there though. Good luck !!

 

[mikidymac]

What is missing from the oil system on your ski?

For cleaning parts I just use old gasoline I have siphoned out of the fuel tanks. Yes it can be explosive so take all necessary safety precautions and no it isn't a parts cleaning solvent technically.

 

[BensGTXFun]

I've done a hell of a lot of work on these skis as well while leaving the engine in place. While you have your head and shoulders inside the engine compartment trying to maneuver the wrenches and you are staring at 3 bolts and that's all that is needed to pull the engine..... you think about it. LOL I leave them all if if all I am doing is a top end. The 951 is the most difficult to me.

Be smart use the new Bendix. You'll know what's in there and you won't want to do it twice believe me.

Yeah.....took me about an hour to remove the one flywheel cover screw that's located behind the front engine mount.....just got too aggravated and removed that mount piece...I pray that it'll align again with all that shifting and movement of the engine....I'm contemplating just biting the bullet and getting that $300 alignment tool...... and removing the 3 engine mount bolts for easier access

 

[BensGTXFun]

What is missing from the oil system on your ski?

For cleaning parts I just use old gasoline I have siphoned out of the fuel tanks. Yes it can be explosive so take all necessary safety precautions and no it isn't a parts cleaning solvent technically.

I've been doing that on cleaning the hull areas that have oil and gunk on the fiberglass hull. Opened the garage door while doing it but got a little light headed after about 30 minutes....

Nothing is missing form the oil system, I just don't know if it's fully functional as well because of that stupid silver paint cover on the outside of the oil lines......might have to change that as well to something clearer.....

 

[etemplet]

Yeah.....took me about an hour to remove the one flywheel cover screw that's located behind the front engine mount.....just got too aggravated and removed that mount piece...I pray that it'll align again with all that shifting and movement of the engine....I'm contemplating just biting the bullet and getting that $300 alignment tool...... and removing the 3 engine mount bolts for easier access

Make sure the back 2 are tight and you won't move anything. Chances are... It's not lined up anyway. LOL

Good move on pulling the mount... basically a must do. PUt a block under the engine and try to hold it where it is. You'll need to lift it some anyway. Be gentle.

 

[etemplet]

For cleaning parts I just use old gasoline I have siphoned out of the fuel tanks. Yes it can be explosive so take all necessary safety precautions and no it isn't a parts cleaning solvent technically.

It's red ant killa, weed killa, fire starter, and parts cleaning solvent in the south. LOL

 

[etemplet]

Opened the garage door while doing it but got a little light headed after about 30 minutes....

YOu say light-headed like it's Bad Thing. BAck in the 1970's you'd have "caught a buzz" and that wasn't ever bad. LOL

 

[mikidymac]

I've been doing that on cleaning the hull areas that have oil and gunk on the fiberglass hull. Opened the garage door while doing it but got a little light headed after about 30 minutes....

Nothing is missing form the oil system, I just don't know if it's fully functional as well because of that stupid silver paint cover on the outside of the oil lines......might have to change that as well to something clearer.....

Ok, so as others have said, the oil injection on these don't fail, the only thing that fails are your little "painted silver" lines. You really want to oil injection on these.
1. Pull the oil tank and clean it out with gasoline.
2. Install new grommets on the bottom of the oil tank and inline oil filter.
3. Change the little 3/32" tygon oil lines (Silver lines).
4. Refill the tank with the correct full synthetic API-TC rated oil.
5. Open the bleed screw on the oil pump until fresh oil comes out then close it. DO NOT Overtighten it.
6. Start the ski and at idle hold the oil pump arm wide open and watch the oil pulse into the small oil lines you just changed. Once the fill all the way to the intake manifold you are done. If you don't see it pulsing into the lines stop because you aren't getting oil but this will not be an issue.

There will be plenty of residual oil in the engine and these don't take any oil at idle so there is no concern running it until the oil lines fill. That being said, some people like to premix the first tank of fuel at 50:1 just to be 100% sure the oil system is working.

 

[BensGTXFun]

Ok, so as others have said, the oil injection on these don't fail, the only thing that fails are your little "painted silver" lines. You really want to oil injection on these.
1. Pull the oil tank and clean it out with gasoline.
2. Install new grommets on the bottom of the oil tank and inline oil filter.
3. Change the little 3/32" tygon oil lines (Silver lines).
4. Refill the tank with the correct full synthetic API-TC rated oil.
5. Open the bleed screw on the oil pump until fresh oil comes out then close it. DO NOT Overtighten it.
6. Start the ski and at idle hold the oil pump arm wide open and watch the oil pulse into the small oil lines you just changed. Once the fill all the way to the intake manifold you are done. If you don't see it pulsing into the lines stop because you aren't getting oil but this will not be an issue.

There will be plenty of residual oil in the engine and these don't take any oil at idle so there is no concern running it until the oil lines fill. That being said, some people like to premix the first tank of fuel at 50:1 just to be 100% sure the oil system is working.

 

[BensGTXFun]

Super tip! Will do once I take all the rust out of there. Ill post pics after changing those oil lines. Thank you!

 

[BensGTXFun]

Make sure the back 2 are tight and you won't move anything. Chances are... It's not lined up anyway. LOL

Good move on pulling the mount... basically a must do. PUt a block under the engine and try to hold it where it is. You'll need to lift it some anyway. Be gentle.

Bit the bullet and getting the allignment tool for $300....I placed the blocks underneath like I've read on other posts, but didn't tighten the back two bolts.....saw the whole engine rocking when I shifted it up to get to that darn single bolt on the flywheel cover....I have a 2000 GTX Millenium edition I am working on as well,, so it'll come in handy when I have to allign that one as well.. Thanks though!

 

[BensGTXFun]

YOu say light-headed like it's Bad Thing. BAck in the 1970's you'd have "caught a buzz" and that wasn't ever bad. LOL

They legalized other ways to get a buzz here in Arizona this year. Soooooo.....

 

[BensGTXFun]

Update! - removed the engine from the hull to make this easier and SOOOO glad I did. Would have been almost impossible to clean in the hull...

Rust is everywhere in the flywheel chamber. Some pretty big clumps here! Bumped into a snag and I don't have a ratchet big enough to remove the flywheel bolt. Harbor frieght on the to do list tomorrow.

Any recommendations on how to check that water or rust hasent gotten into the crankshaft? And/or any other recommendations while the engine is out and easy access? I'm all ears! After and before pics!

 

[etemplet]

You'll need a flywheel puller also and a can of Penitrating oil. You gotta pull all that off to get to the bendix and GREASE that bearing in the housing I mentioned earlier. I may even need to be replaced given the condition of everything else. I have some pretty corroded housings on the seadoos but this one is about as bad as I've seen. Yikes. When you get everything apart and are reasonably comfortable it's all servicable.. I recommend a thorough clean up and "Glyptal" insulating enamal. Good stuff and what I use. Top picture is my first one and I managed to do it with the engine installed. Not as pretty as the other one.