Engine connection loose and leaking

[CoolHandJohnny]

I’ve got a 2002 Seadoo GTX RFI. I had a rebuilt motor installed a couple years ago.It’s been running great until last weekend. It was hard to start but when I finally got it started I had to keep the throttle pressed in slightly or it would die. It ran great except for when at throttle. I got it home and there was some water on the spark plugs. I got the water out and it fired right up. I turned on the hose and then in 20 seconds it dies and once again water on the spark plugs. I also noticed water coming out of this area where the arrow is pointing in the attached picture. I also can tell this connection is very loose. When the motor is running, I can see it move slightly. I’m not a mechanic but I know that isn’t right. How do I go about tightening this back up? I’ve spent way too much money on this ski so I’d like to do the work myself instead of taking it to the dealership again. I’ve been looking for some kind of instructions but can’t find anything online. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.

 

[etemplet]

You can try tightening the bolts at the bottom but unfortunately once they start leaking generally re-torquing doesn't aways work but you might get lucky. I'd try removing the head. There are 8 bolts holding the cylinders in place, (4) on each. Get a torque wrench and tighten the bolts according to spec. That might work for your and it isn't a big job at all. You might want to replace the head gaskets but for sure you have to clean the gasket surfaces.

Have a look at the cylinders and pistons while you are in there. That's really all their is to it. Good Luck !!

 

[CoolHandJohnny]

You can try tightening the bolts at the bottom but unfortunately once they start leaking generally re-torquing doesn't aways work but you might get lucky. I'd try removing the head. There are 8 bolts holding the cylinders in place, (4) on each. Get a torque wrench and tighten the bolts according to spec. That might work for your and it isn't a big job at all. You might want to replace the head gaskets but for sure you have to clean the gasket surfaces.

Have a look at the cylinders and pistons while you are in there. That's really all their is to it. Good Luck !!

Thanks. I’ll see if I can locate the bolts this afternoon.

 

[CoolHandJohnny]

You can try tightening the bolts at the bottom but unfortunately once they start leaking generally re-torquing doesn't aways work but you might get lucky. I'd try removing the head. There are 8 bolts holding the cylinders in place, (4) on each. Get a torque wrench and tighten the bolts according to spec. That might work for your and it isn't a big job at all. You might want to replace the head gaskets but for sure you have to clean the gasket surfaces.

Have a look at the cylinders and pistons while you are in there. That's really all there is to it. Good Luck !!

Do you happen to know what the torque specs are supposed to be on those bolts? Should I inspect anything else for the cause of the leak or do you think it’s simply the bolts got loose? Thanks again!

 

[etemplet]

I would download the repair manual. If the bolts are 8mm torque is around 17 ft. lbs. 10mm 30 ft. lbs I can't say how the bolts got loose but most likely never torqued properly. Vibration can cause to loosen. Seadoo recommends loctite.... I personally don't use it. I have my own South Louisiana, South MIssiisppi Gulf of Mexico conconction. Hope it seals up for you. You may have caught it in time.

 

[CoolHandJohnny]

I would download the repair manual. If the bolts are 8mm torque is around 17 ft. lbs. 10mm 30 ft. lbs I can't say how the bolts got loose but most likely never torqued properly. Vibration can cause to loosen. Seadoo recommends loctite.... I personally don't use it. I have my own South Louisiana, South MIssiisppi Gulf of Mexico conconction. Hope it seals up for you. You may have caught it in time.

I got the manual. Thanks!

 

[CoolHandJohnny]

I would download the repair manual. If the bolts are 8mm torque is around 17 ft. lbs. 10mm 30 ft. lbs I can't say how the bolts got loose but most likely never torqued properly. Vibration can cause to loosen. Seadoo recommends loctite.... I personally don't use it. I have my own South Louisiana, South MIssiisppi Gulf of Mexico conconction. Hope it seals up for you. You may have caught it in time.

I'm going to tighten the bolts to torque specifications and then run it on the hose to see how it acts. If all seems good on the hose and I'm not getting any leaks, should I do anything else? The pressure from the hose should be more than it ever gets in the water isn't it? Sorry for all of the questions but I've never done this before.

 

[etemplet]

That sounds like a plan. Lots of stuff we do we haven't tried before. You're in good company. LOL Let us know how you make out !!

 

[POPPS]

If that is the base gasket that is leaking, then you need to pull the top end and install a new base gasket.
It’s also possible that the water in the cylinders has scored the cylinder walls,
Be u pull the top end, pull the plugs and do a compression test

 

[CoolHandJohnny]

If that is the base gasket that is leaking, then you need to pull the top end and install a new base gasket.
It’s also possible that the water in the cylinders has scored the cylinder walls,
Be u pull the top end, pull the plugs and do a compression test

This might be a stupid question but will there be much compression with that gasket leaking?

 

[CoolHandJohnny]

If that is the base gasket that is leaking, then you need to pull the top end and install a new base gasket.
It’s also possible that the water in the cylinders has scored the cylinder walls,
Be u pull the top end, pull the plugs and do a compression test

145 and 146 on the compression test.

 

[etemplet]

If that is the base gasket that is leaking, then you need to pull the top end and install a new base gasket.
It’s also possible that the water in the cylinders has scored the cylinder walls,
Be u pull the top end, pull the plugs and do a compression test

The best permanent fix. I sure agree.

 

[CoolHandJohnny]

The best permanent fix. I sure agree.

I've got new rings and gaskets ordered.

 

[mikidymac]

IF the cylinders are worn, new rings will do nothing.
You need to measure bores and pistons for wear/out of spec.

 

[CoolHandJohnny]

IF the cylinders are worn, new rings will do nothing.
You need to measure bores and pistons for wear/out of spec.

With compression being at 145 and 146, is there a reason to check the bores or pistons? Visually, they look fine. I don't have the correct equipment to measure accurately. The kit came with new rings so I was going to go ahead and replace them along with the gasket.

 

[mikidymac]

If your compression is 145/146 don't touch the pistons or rings, they are good as is.

 

[CoolHandJohnny]

What do you recommend to hold the gasket and the jugs rubber rings in place while reinstalling? I’ve seen some people recommend Vasoline or marine grease. Thoughts?

 

[mikidymac]

Gaskets go in dry, the will stay in place.
Cylinder o-rings get Permatex 515/518 per the service manual. The manual tells what sealants, lube and threadlock to use.

 

[CoolHandJohnny]

For the piston ring positioning pins. I see the pin location for the lower ring but I must be overlooking the pin location for the thin upper ring. Is there one for the upper thin ring? The manual doesn’t say specifically but the wording makes me think there is a positioning pin for both the upper and lower ring.

 

[CoolHandJohnny]

Also, is it okay if I push the pistons down. Having the pistons at different heights from where they are now would make it easier for me to install the gasket and jugs. I didn’t want to start pushing on them if it would be a problem.

 

[burtshaver2021]

There should be locating pins for both the rectangular and L ring, no problem to push the pistons up and down while the cylinders are off or while one cylinder is on, don’t forget to add a little of the same 2 stroke oil that you are running to the sides of the pistons, cylinder walls, anywhere that metal meets metal for start up lubrication. Use the same cylinder base gasket as cane out, chase the threads and make sure they are clean, clean up your bolts on a brass wheel and follow manual for torque and loctite.

 

[burtshaver2021]

When your pushing/rotating the pistons with cylinders off just be careful they don’t bang up against the case. Don’t forget to put your exhaust manifold back on before torquing down your cylinders and rotate the pistons by hand after installing each cylinder to be sure they are turning smoothly

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, all 2-stroke pistons have pins for both rings. they should be 45ish degrees apart.

 

[CoolHandJohnny]

Gaskets go in dry, the will stay in place.
Cylinder o-rings get Permatex 515/518 per the service manual. The manual tells what sealants, lube and threadlock to use.

Is there ever an exception for using the Grey Gasket Maker on the top and bottom of the gasket? I've seen online where some mechanics say you need to use it if the motor was rebuilt or if there is anything but a very flat surface for the gasket to fit to. I do have a rebuilt motor and so I do have some small pitting. Would a very thin layer of the Grey Gasket Maker be advisable in this situation or no? Permatex MotoSeal (fuel resistant) is what I was thinking of using. If not that material, would something else be advisable, OR just leave it the bare gasket and torque to specs?

 

[burtshaver2021]

I don’t mention it to often but I always(Lol always, 3 motors) use an ultra thin layer of 518 on both sides of the cylinder base gasket. It does call for dry but I have read of a few well accomplished people who also do it.