CoolHandJohnny
Member
Sorry for my ignorance but what is 518?
Engine connection loose and leaking
- Thread starter CoolHandJohnny
- Start date
It’s a loctite product, it supersedes 515. Permatex also has an equivalent. It’s anaerobic. Seadoo used to call for it between case halves and many still use it there as well as in many other places in the seadoo’s. What I like about it, is it doesn’t set up until the pieces have been put together and there’s no more air
Follow the service manual.
It tells you to use the 515/518 on the compression o-rings and some bolt threads.
Napa has an equivalent, it is where I get it.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTX...EAQYAiABEgLJ8_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1
It tells you to use the 515/518 on the compression o-rings and some bolt threads.
Napa has an equivalent, it is where I get it.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTX...EAQYAiABEgLJ8_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1
CoolHandJohnny
Member
Thank you!!
CoolHandJohnny
Member
I got the pistons back in the cylinders but am not able to push them in and out. FYI, I wasn’t able to do it before installing the jugs either. The rods moved freely but the crank shaft didn’t want to move much. I wanted to make the pistons move up and down in the jugs to make sure they were moving smoothly before cranking. Once I got the rings in the right place, the jugs slid on the pistons easily so I think it’s all good. Is there another way to move the pistons up and down without cranking?
Should be able to turn relatively easily by hand, by turning the pto
CoolHandJohnny
Member
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Unfortunately you should be worried, something isn’t right in there. Something that won’t fix itself, rotary valve gear stripped, bad bearing, really bad, bent rod, something is pretty horribly wrong unfortunately
CoolHandJohnny
Member
Any ideas what it could be? It’s been like that since I’ve had it, 4 years. If I crank it and it runs the same as before, then what? I don’t want to blow up my engine, it’s only two years old.
When I say turn it over by hand, that’s with the plugs out, not being able to turn it over by hand for 4 years but it running is very odd, if it were just once I would say look at your propeller and wear ring but not if it’s been like that for 4 yeara
Reckon I’m going to throw my 2cent in. With it being rebuilt in the last couple years, my gut says it wasn’t torqued properly. Because all mechanics have tricks, I won’t criticize what may have worked for others, but I def would not attempt to re-torque, unless this was within a few days of installation. Reason is, once the gasket leaks, any foreign matter that is between the gasket and surface, could burr or gouge the machined surface.
I totally agree with the gasket replacement on the head. Since it was rebuilt earlier, I don’t think your rings or cylinders need repair, but as suggested even , I would check piston tolerances. You can get an inexpensive micrometer at your local parts house. You will need a ring compressor, because once you remove the heads, about the only way to put it back on without, is if you got the engine on a workbench.
Being honest, I’d be pissed, after spending money on an engine that is supposed to last between 200-300 hours, and this occurs. Personally, I’d be banging down the door of the shop that did the job, and if no solution, social media would become a close friend. That should NOT have happened under normal riding conditions!
Just my 2 cents.
I totally agree with the gasket replacement on the head. Since it was rebuilt earlier, I don’t think your rings or cylinders need repair, but as suggested even , I would check piston tolerances. You can get an inexpensive micrometer at your local parts house. You will need a ring compressor, because once you remove the heads, about the only way to put it back on without, is if you got the engine on a workbench.
Being honest, I’d be pissed, after spending money on an engine that is supposed to last between 200-300 hours, and this occurs. Personally, I’d be banging down the door of the shop that did the job, and if no solution, social media would become a close friend. That should NOT have happened under normal riding conditions!
Just my 2 cents.
CoolHandJohnny
Member
Sorry, the plugs have been in. I’ll try it without the plugs in. I didn’t know that would make a difference but after thinking about it for 2 seconds, makes perfect sense.
CoolHandJohnny
Member
You’re 100 percent right. The bad thing is, they are the only shop within 2 hours drive that will work on the 2 strokes. I was able to get the pistons back on. A few words were spoken, a couple of things were thrown. Had a lot of fun.
CoolHandJohnny
Member
Just got it cranked on the hose. Fired right up and smoking like my whole house is on fire. From what I’ve read, I was expecting the smoke. I had to adjust the throttle slightly and oil pump to match. It is now just barely smoking.
Huge thank you to etemplet, Mikidymac and Burtshaver2021. You guys are awesome!! Thank you for helping me out on this. The big test will hopefully be tomorrow when I can get it to the lake. So far, it sounds just as good as it did before.
Huge thank you to etemplet, Mikidymac and Burtshaver2021. You guys are awesome!! Thank you for helping me out on this. The big test will hopefully be tomorrow when I can get it to the lake. So far, it sounds just as good as it did before.
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CoolHandJohnny
Member
Quick question. How long should the ski smoke white smoke after getting it back together? It isn’t smoking nearly as bad as it was the first startup but is still smoking. I’m guessing it will probably stop once I get to run it out on the lake. I’ve only run it on the hose so far.
When I start my machines up at home out of the water for 10 or so seconds it looks like I’m fogging our property for mosquitoes or something. I find on the water it smokes for the first minute or so, mainly because I have a hundred foot no wake zone but once I’m able to throttle up and the engine is warm there’s no smoke or at least it’s not noticeable
CoolHandJohnny
Member
Okay, one more question. FYI-I have not taken it back to the lake yet. Work/family has come first. Back to when this problem first started I thought the idle screw had become loose so I started adjusting it. It was stalling out when only in idle. Now that everything is fixed and put back together, I need to get it adjusted back to the correct rpm setting. From what I've read in the manual, I should be about 3,000 rpm out of water and then 1500 in water. I can get that adjusted easy enough but I'm also seeing where people are saying I will have to take it to the dealer to set the computer. Is this right or can I get it adjusted to the 3,000/1500 and call it good? I know I'll have to verify the oil pump is also set correctly once I get the throttle done. I really don't want to have to go back to the dealer unless absolutely necessary.
CoolHandJohnny
Member
I finally took it to the lake after work today. It ran really well but a few questions for you all.
1. What should the max RPM be? I hit 6800 but I don’t think the rave kicked in. I may adjust the red caps on the raves some to see if it changes.
2. Rpm out of the water on the hose is 2400. In the water 1600. Do you all see anything there that would be a cause for concern? It sounded really good and ran great.
Thanks again!
1. What should the max RPM be? I hit 6800 but I don’t think the rave kicked in. I may adjust the red caps on the raves some to see if it changes.
2. Rpm out of the water on the hose is 2400. In the water 1600. Do you all see anything there that would be a cause for concern? It sounded really good and ran great.
Thanks again!
I personally wouldn’t do a thing, I don’t know much about the red caps on the rave valves but I’ve read multiple times not to monkey with them, just leave them at factory setting, I see nothing wrong with 6800 rpm, Max Rpm as per manual could be a little higher I’m not sure, but I would be happy with 6800. I will keep an eye on my gauges next time I take out one of the GSX’s. I also think 1600 rpms in the water is perfect.
I personally wouldn’t do a thing, I don’t know much about the red caps on the rave valves but I’ve read multiple times not to monkey with them, just leave them at factory setting, I see nothing wrong with 6800 rpm, Max Rpm as per manual could be a little higher I’m not sure, but I would be happy with 6800. I will keep an eye on my gauges next time I take out one of the GSX’s. I also think 1600 rpms in the water is perfect.
WhiskeyD
Well-Known Member
They are tensioners. Screwing them in puts more pressure on the raves so they open at a higher RPM.
