Cleaning up the mess in a filthy hull

[JPX]

For routine cleaning, say following a regular ride:
1. Remove all storage compartment liners
2. Open drain plugs
3. Rinse engine compartment and hull walls
- spray biodegradable cleaner (Oil Eater is excellent) and rinse thoroughly
4. If possible, tilt the trailer up to make the water drain out the rear
5. Use leafblower to force water from bow to stern. If you play with the angle, you can force almost all of the water out of the rear of the hull through the drains.
6. Leave seats and compartment liners off to allow in the interior to dry and not mold, corrode, etc.
7. Spray your choice of corrosion-inhibitor - WD-40, SeaDoo/BRP Lube, etc.

For really filthy inner hulls (following a fuel or oil leak or simply poor upkeep from previous owner).
- If the entire oil reservoir or fuel tank leaked and filled the hull, try to drain out the back with a catch pan and tilting the ski.
- Once you got what you could with the drain, blot up the rest of the mess with shop towels.
- I recommend Oil Eater for breaking up the greasy/oily slime inside in preparation for rinse. It generally will not attack plastics, rubber and paint.
- Rinse thoroughly from box to stern. Repeat degreasing, washing as needed.
- Use leaf blower or compressed air to force water from front to rear. Don't forget to blow out water trapped in the hex screw/bolt heads

 

[new_monic]

Good to know. Thanks for the info.

 

[JPX]

I forgot to mention that after cleaning the hull, make sure the seats or any hatches are propped open to allow air circulation in the hull.
This prevents mildew growth and lets any trapped moisture escape.

I've used blocks of wood wrapped in a towel or foam to protect the rubber gasket and reduce stress points from the weight on the lids on the hull lips.

On my 96 HX, I like to leave off the rear hatch completely in storage to make sure the rubber gasket does not compress over time......still pops up like new!