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Challenger Pump Problems

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The impeller P/N 204 160 027. progressive pitch 17' 22' . 1997 Shop Manual volume 2. That's what was stamped on my impeller in my boat. My boat planes just fine 4 people and all gear for a long day on the lake
 
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Interesting... this contradicts many sites out there regarding impeller pitch. Says that part number is for 96 SPX, HX and a few other models. Claims the pitch to be a 11/22. Skat Trac recommends a 17/22 Swirl for the 787 Challenger if one seeks to make it faster. Otherwise, they recommend a 14.5/22.5 Swirl for hole-shot. I was under the impression that the 787 Challenger stock prop part number was 204 160 027 according to http://www.seadoosource.com/impellerref.html
I have a seadoo book at home that has some prop part number to pitch crossovers. I'll reference your find.
 
IDoSeaDoo said:
Interesting... this contradicts many sites out there regarding impeller pitch. Says that part number is for 96 SPX, HX and a few other models. Claims the pitch to be a 11/22. Skat Trac recommends a 17/22 Swirl for the 787 Challenger if one seeks to make it faster. Otherwise, they recommend a 14.5/22.5 Swirl for hole-shot. I was under the impression that the 787 Challenger stock prop part number was 204 160 027 according to http://www.seadoosource.com/impellerref.html
I have a seadoo book at home that has some prop part number to pitch crossovers. I'll reference your find.
Click to expand...

hence why it was recommeded by Dave to run 15\23 Solas Concords for ours... I wasn`t concerned with loading the engines more for a few mph top end... no matter how I looked at it, there would always be someone faster, and my past ski`s have been much faster than the boat, so why kill it...

I`m pretty sure that oem impeller is really really close if not 15\23, bc the solas are labeled as stock replacements... but as you are seeing many different results from different literature.
 
Just my two cents,
While you are getting the correct impeller and new carbon seal installed, as advised in previous posts, change the bellows that holds the carbon seal. They become old and weak, so when you accelerate it gets pulled back and lets air in creating cavitation. If you don't want to change them, then you can install a couple of zip ties in the "valley" portion of the bellows to help hold the carbon seal out against the carrier ring seal.
 
Do you guys think I can just seal the shoe at the pump? just take some strong silicone and go around right where it meets the hull around the the pump area? I really don't want to take it all the way off... That seems like such a PITA!
 
IDoSeaDoo said:
Do you guys think I can just seal the shoe at the pump? just take some strong silicone and go around right where it meets the hull around the the pump area? I really don't want to take it all the way off... That seems like such a PITA!
Click to expand...
are you absolutely certain you have an air leak at the shoe? silicone will blow right off from the thrust if applied topically.

now that you know the impeller your using may be to small, at least in overlap anyways, use the right parts and retest.
 
well, I guess I can go to some shops around here and see if anyone has the ability to remove the stock prop. That sob is on there good and tight tho... If noone can do it, I suppose I'll use my 17/23 Skat Trac Swirl. It honestly doesn't sound like the cavitation I heard before: it used to bounce off the stutter box if I gunned it from idle (or other throttle positions for that matter), now it just kind-of goes to high-rpm and stays there, but none of that stuttering at rev-limiter. Hitting the rev-limiter HAS GOT TO BE BAD for the engine, right? I mean for it to be operating that erratically at that RPM just sounds disastrous to me...
 
Have you tried a little heat with a small propane torch.
That usually loosens up the red loctite that the impeller was installed with.

If you get it loose and some of the threads are screwed up just get a M16 x 1.5 tap and dienut to clean up the threads.
 
Oh it's way beyond that

jhjesse said:
Have you tried a little heat with a small propane torch.
That usually loosens up the red loctite that the impeller was installed with.

If you get it loose and some of the threads are screwed up just get a M16 x 1.5 tap and dienut to clean up the threads.
Click to expand...

It's waay beyond a little heat. I've held a propane torch to it for like 2min, to the point where the metal started to change colors, then locked it in a vice and STOOD on a 1.5ft breaker bar. So far, I've broken TWO large vices trying to get this thing off (NOTE TO ALL: do not buy cast iron vices). It's on there good. I believe a super-impact gun is the only way to get it off, but the only one I have access to is an electric one, prob 3-400ft-lbs capable.
 
No, but I did have that impact wrench dancing on it for a few minutes with no luck :/ Don't have a vice anymore to try the hammer trick. I figure I'll take it to a shop and hopefully they'll do it for $20
 
No wifey yet, married to my seadoos :) They better not charge more than $20. It'll take them 3 min to tell me if they can do it or not. Either they have an impact gun big enough, or they don't.
 
Well, got the old prop off FINALLY. Had to take it to a muffler shop where my new friend put the shaft into a true Wilton vice (an American made carbon steel model, not that Chinese shit you buy at Northern Tool). He tried his impact gun, then brought out the 3/4" jack-hammer look-alike. He finally got it off w/ an acetylene torch and a 3-foot breaker bar. Freakin' unbelievable how damn tight this thing was on there. WOW I was sad to find ABSOLUTELY NO markings on there at all. No part number, brand, anything. What the F? Did brp not put part numbers on their later model props?
 
No. I know what you mean, but I didn't see any white corrosion residue. What concerns me more is the fact that there are absolutely no identification marks on the prop at all :confused:
 
I had almost the same issue with my 787 challenger. The PO said he put a stainless prop from a 95xp on it. Long and short of it was my boat would take forever to plain off and eventually move. On advice from all the awesome guys on this forum, I called impros. Dave set me up with a Skat 17/22, new neoprene gasket and oem wear ring....problem solved. If the prop is not specific for your boat, don't use it.

My 2 cents anyways
 
Well, I took the 10/22 off today. Took my original, unknown impeller and cleaned up the trailing edges, bent them back with vice grips and put a nice, sharp, polished edge to the leading and trailing ends. It looks a lot better than before. I compared the overlap and DAMN, the original has WAY more than that old 10/22. I measured the clearance around the impeller and it appears to be about .045 in places, better in others. Going to the lake now to test it out. Keeping everything the same: old-school carrier seal, same (good shape) neoprene seal, new wear ring, didn't mess with the ride shoe. Let's see how much difference this prop makes. Wish me luck!
 
SUCESS!! :hurray: The original prop made all the difference!! Runs better than ever before. My buddy and I went out to Harris Lake to test after swapping props and it planed right out. I don't think I'm hitting my peak RPMs tho, it's hard to read the gauge I have, but I feel like it's somewhere around 6.5k. I believe that's due to carb settings. The PO said he bought one new carb for it and rebuilt the other. I have never taken them apart before, so that's my next step. Well, that and putting in the new sound system! The engines run 100degF apart from each other, so I'm guessing once the carbs are tuned, I'll gain my rpms back. Still need to finish breaking in the new rings too. But the boat is getting there :cheers:
 
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