Balancing starter flywheel.

[Mekanix]

Searched, Didn't find an answer. Can't quite get the hang of that thing :facepalm:

Anyways, I have to ask.

Got my new crank today and I'm at the point of installing the starter gear and rotor. I need to pickup some locktite 648 so I'm down for now anyways.


I noticed that a few parts of the gear has more wear than others, Still serviceable but...

What kind of effect does this thing have at 7000RPM if its out of balance ?

Should I try and get it balanced or build a rig and drill/ balance it myself?

What do you guys do in this case ?

Thanks

 

[Dr Honda]

I'm sure, a perfectly balance flywheel would be a good thing... but generally... it's not needed. If there is significant damage, that would throw it out of balance... then it's probably too far gone anyway.

 

[Mekanix]

Its only about a 6 inch stretch where some teeth have their edges chewed up a bit. If its just a matter or drilling a bit on the other end to take care of it why not but maybe its a mute point. I'm just trying the best Ican to take care of my new crank.

 

[Dr Honda]

Well..........


If you "Want to be the best you can".... then don't guess. Arbitrarily removing material could make it MORE out of balance. I know you see the teeth are chewed... but it may not have shifted that much weight. Send it out for balancing if you are worried.

 

[Mekanix]

Cool. I didnt mean I would just drill randomly
I meant its not difficult to modify it for imbalances if there is any. Similar to balancing flywheel on a car engine.

 

[Guest_User]

I also have a "worn area on both flywheels (twins). probably due to the engine resting at the same point or thereabouts when shut down. I`m not worried about it. many have run years or many hours without a thought to it...

good luck...

 

[Mekanix]

Oh, good to know.
Thanks

 

[Mekanix]

Checked the balance, Nothing worth even noticing.

I do have one more problem now though.

How can I tighten the pto and starter plate without the proper lock tool for the plate?

The plate requires 77 ft lbs and the pto requires 81 ft lbs which is allot of torque I would think and that requires something stationary to stop things from rotating...

I'm assuming that going from one end to the other at that torque would twist that crank. Am I right ?
Also assuming that the pto has to be tightened by twisting on the crank anyways or by locking the cylinder with the rope trick.

And whats this about boiling the PTO and then torquing it on? What locktite should I use?

What do you guys normally do?

It might be easy for you guys but being a first time for me I like to be cautious and ask first

 

[Dr Honda]

No boiling... and NO thread locker on the PTO !!


Get a hunk of rope... and put it down the spark plug hole, of the closest piston. (so, PTO, put the rope on the PTO jug) That will let you compress the engine safe, and you can torque the PTO and MAG nut.

So... on the PTO... it will self tighten when you run it. So torque is almost a moot point. Just make it tight, and the engine running will take care of the rest.

The MAG side, I like BLUE thread locker (low strength, removable) on the nut. As I recall... it gets torqued to 70 Lb/ft. (but double check that)

 

[Mekanix]

You're right Doc that's exactly what I did and it all worked just fine. I was surprised it could handle t hat much torque.

I did notice a bit of wobble on the starter plate. About. 0.016" in and out. Near the teeth.

What about this locktire 648 behind the rotor and on the screws. I can't find the stuff. And I cant find the permatex sleeve rerainer.

 

[Dr Honda]

Just use blue on the screws... and shaft or sleeve retainer is "Green" thread locker. (what do you need that for??)

 

[Mekanix]

Just use blue on the screws... and shaft or sleeve retainer is "Green" thread locker. (what do you need that for??)

Service manual says to put it behind the rotor and on the screws for the rotor to flywheel. I already blue locktied the shaft and nut like it says and thats where I'm stoped now


What would you do ?

 

[Mekanix]

Got the engine completely buil and primed. Carbs are next.


The po removed the choke plates and installed a single primer.

Should I try and find another set or just run a second primer line on a tee to the other carb?

 

[Dr Honda]

Just use blue on that engien. (no green)


If the carbs are in good shape... then just split the primmer to both carbs. I like primers... but there is nothing wrong with a choke. Basically... I run the choke, until something breaks. (like the cable)