glsmohio
Well-Known Member
I'm def not spending the coin it takes to get a single gauge hood just for that. Before doing that I'd epoxy the hole shut and paint it for $5. And no don't worry I would never do that.
i picked my hood up for $25 shipped
I'm def not spending the coin it takes to get a single gauge hood just for that. Before doing that I'd epoxy the hole shut and paint it for $5. And no don't worry I would never do that.
A yellow single gauge in good condition?i picked my hood up for $25 shipped
A yellow single gauge in good condition?
i picked my hood up for $25 shipped
Yeah I neither have the equipment or skill for painting.I painted it yellow
John Deere yellow in a rattle can is a damn close match.Yeah I neither have the equipment or skill for painting.
Yeah I neither have the equipment or skill for painting.
you can do it. just cant be scared. like ankeneyou said, the rattle can will work just fine and if it doesn't turn out just sand and do again...
Took me forever to find a mint 96 xp hood. I'd rather not find another one and paint it. I'll continue to look for the plugs.
Let me see what I have in my storage. I may be able to just bring you one to the meetup. You could just run dual gas gauges or dual trim to fill the hole, lol.Took me forever to find a mint 96 xp hood. I'd rather not find another one and paint it. I'll continue to look for the plugs.
Awesome. Hah I have another trim gauge. I actually have a speedo that I kept there, but over that.Let me see what I have in my storage. I may be able to just bring you one to the meetup. You could just run dual gas gauges or dual trim to fill the hole, lol.
John Deere farm equipment yellow is dead nuts on
Lowe's has it here, Meijer, even saw it at one walmart. You could also go to a JD dealer but you are gonna pay more.I cant find that stuff anywhere locally!
 
	It's all been covered above but I'll just recap. The primer draws fuel in the angled barb and spits it out through the straight barb. You can put a finger over those fittings to confirm. It will only draw in one and only spit air out of one while you hold it in your hand to test.
Those primers are crap now and can't be trusted. The old ones would last five years at least, now they spit gas at me while I'm pumping them in the first year sometimes. WFO noticed this a couple years ago and I saw it myself soon after. It might be ethanol but I think another Chinese company just got the contract that has lesser quality control. The racers have moved to these button primers http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRIMER-KIT-...ash=item2362e5139f:g:qVEAAOSwB4NWv8yY&vxp=mtr I've installed my first one in my black XPL and it works pretty good.
Since we know the traditional primer will fail you want to keep it off your supply line. If you run on the ON channel and only use the RES for emergencies then the RES is a good place. Otherwise I do it like 1 of 500 said (originally taught this by Crockett on pwctoday may he RIP) I loop the return line and put my T in the bottom of the loop. That way there is always a few squirts worth of fuel there and there is zero risk of loosing an engine from the primer drawing in air. I tried a low spot in the return line at first on the Zebra ski and like Suke I was never able to get any fuel pumping when the ski had been sitting (when you need it most haha).
Let me knit how that goes. I got the ball style also that matt recommended. I can't believe I always used the choke in the past. This is way easierJust installed my plunge type Primer and it has made in USA stamped all over it, so hoping that it will last more than a season. Got mine at Atlantic Jetsports.
Yah I've got both types just in case. The plunger looks to be better quality than the button type I got off ebay.Let me knit how that goes. I got the ball style also that matt recommended. I can't believe I always used the choke in the past. This is way easier
[MENTION=29781]Spimothy Leary[/MENTION] I tried to respond to you pm but you box is full....
