soccerdad
Well-Known Member
Is it my direction? Of course it will be under snow tomorrow....
96 XP worth it?
- Thread starter LKGrider
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Lol. Nope. It's north. I had to shuffle my projects around today so I could have a few skis in the garage to work on over the next few days. Already told my work I am not coming in tomorrow. Lol
Lol....I've been following your thread on that. It's looking good!
Ok, so I was outside today looking around at some of my projects. Got to looking at this one again. Now that it has thawed out I was looking at it and it's a shame the underside has damage. The top side is super clean. Looks like at some point trailer bunk bolts or something poked through the hull. The patches are large but the hole is only an inch or so big. Sooooo......should I pull the motor which I will be doing anyway and patch it correctly from inside and out, and paint and blend underneath it? Then restore the rest of the ski? Also, I am thinking about rebuilding the motor myself. I usually send them out to have rebuilt but reading some of the other threads like [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] and [MENTION=51350]Jetskigoodies[/MENTION] along with some others and seeing/learning to rebuild I think I can do it. Honestly is there much to it? Tearing it down, splitting the cases, then replacing crank, balance shaft, pistons, etc and sealing and torquing it back together?
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
That is pretty much all there is to it. Cleaning everything is key to a good build. Also make sure to follow all torque specs and torque sequences. You will need a flywheel puller it will cost you about $20. Get yourself a good manual and you will be alright.
purple_people_eater
New Member
it really is that simple. get yourself a tube of threebond 1194 or 1204 to reseal the case halves and a little bit on each side of the base gasket. mock it together, test your squish clearance, and bolt it all together. and don't forget to instal the pistons the right way! lol
purple_people_eater
New Member
Very true, I remember my first one. Still get a similar feeling every time I build another one. A friend of mine once told me when it comes to building engines, build it fully expecting it to blow up, then if it blows you're expecting it. However if it runs it's the biggest surprise in the world lol
If I do it which I think I am going to after all the post here building my confidence, I am going to take my time and do it right. I like how [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] removed just about everything from inside the hull of the SPX he got and super cleaned it. I have a flywheel puller already and access to the manuals here on the site.
I will try to get some today. It was getting dark last night when I was looking at it again.
I have heard you and others talk about squish clearance before. Does it say in the manual how to? Or can it be explained easily?
That would be a awesome "how to" thread.
That is another thing I am looking forward to is the satisfaction that I did it......or blew it up again. Guess we'll see. Lol
It's in the manual, but very easy to explain
Just gonna take some time to get it right.
You pretty much have to not pay attention to have one grenade.
purple_people_eater
New Member
it says how to in the manual, but what your doing is basically measuring the volume of the combustion chamber by measuring the clearance between the side of the piston and the head. Its done by taking some solder and bending it in the form of an L. then with the motor dry mocked (ie cases sealed, base gasket on, cylinders squared and lightly held in place, pistons in, the circlips don't have to be in at this point, and head on and lightly secured. if you're using paper gaskets, do not do more than hand tighten the bolts to hold everything in place) then run the solder down the plug hole of the head and find the edge of the piston and cylinder bore being parallel with the crank. then rotate the motor completely over and squish the solder between the side of the piston and the head. take the solder out and measure it with a set of calipers. specs are in the manual on what it should be. repeat on the other side of the same piston and then the same on the other piston.
like i said above, what you're doing is setting the volume of the combustion chamber and thus your compression. this is done by increasing or decreasing the size of your base gasket, thus increasing or decreasing the distance between the piston and the head at tdc.
like racer said, get yourself a good manual, read the engine assembly chapter twice before starting it and keep it next to you the entire time your working.
1of500
Well-Known Member
I don't know. Personally I would scrap it. I don't look like the went far enough with the repair. For a one inch hole I would think you would need to remove the gel for at least 6 inches from the hole so you would have about a 12 inch patch area. Old hulls are cheap enough is it worth risking the internals for a patch that could delaminate while riding?
The outside patches look ok. It's the inside that worries me. I can't tell if it's next to the motor mount or if the repair is part of the mount. I guess once I get the motor out I will look at it closer. May just be a doner ski. I found a 95 xp800 hull only on CL. Waiting on pics. Guy is 2 hrs from me. Will the pump from this 96 fit on a 95 800?
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