96 XP Revival

[JeremyD615]

Well it's getting close to boating season again, and I got the bug to add a couple of skis to my toy box. I felt like I needed something to tinker with for a bit until the weather warms up, so the search began for a couple of decently priced skis. I came across a fantastic deal on a 95XP with the 720 along with a double trailer and a box of spare parts, so I scooped those up last Saturday. I then realized as I pulled out of the previous owner's driveway, that I had started looking for something to tinker with, and had just bought a completely sorted out ski that needs absolutely zero work done to it. I also now had a trailer with an empty spot on it that I couldn't stand to see bare... A quick search of Facebook Marketplace would remedy that in a hurry!

So I came across a mess of a 96XP about an hour and a half away, and the previous owner told me the ski ran fine until the MPEM died. I finished restoring a 95 Speedster last summer that started out with a garden growing in it, so I'm not afraid to dig into a nasty hull and try to breathe new life into a tired old motor! I also thought I remembered seeing a spare E-Box in my box of spare parts, and when I opened it up and checked the back of the MPEM, it was in fact for a 96 with a 787, and had what I'm hoping is the original DESS key with it. With that kind of luck, I had no choice to drive down and take a look at the ski, which I wound up buying for a few hundred bucks. The MPEM and DESS post were missing, but I've got a complete E-Box and key already, and a new post on the way. That should be a pretty simple swap, and I'm just going to keep my finders crossed for that part of it. It's got the original grey tempo lines still run through the entire hull, which will be changed out this week. And then there is the dilemma... It's got aftermarket flame arrestors on the carbs. I asked whether they had been rejetted, and the previous owner said he thought so, but wasn't sure what had been done to the carbs. He also mentioned that he thought it had a "hot cam," which I can only assume is a modified rotary valve. I'm tempted to just pick up some stock sized jets when I order the carb kits and throw a factory air box back on it, but I'm a little worried that stock settings won't be correct anymore if the rotary valve timing is modified. Do you guys think I should just try to get it running with the parts and settings it's got now and tune from there, or should I attempt to take it back to stock, not knowing what's been done internally?

I'll try to get some more pictures up and document my progress as I dig into this, but any comments or insights into what direction I should take it are much appreciated...

 

[mikidymac]

There is no such thing as a cam in a 2 stroke so I wouldn't take anything he says.

For the cost of a couple o-rings you can check the rotary valve.

I am all for the stock jetting and air box as it keeps water out of the carbs and without other mods you will not gain any performance.

 

[JeremyD615]

Oh I’ve been through a few Rotax motors now, so I know there’s no cam. That comment made me question everything that I was told about the motor, so I’m fully expecting to be installing a complete rebuild. I really just wanted everyone’s opinion whether I should even attempt to fire it up and try to tune it the way it sits, or go back to stock before I crank it over.

 

[etemplet]

The second thing I'd check would be compression. First thing would be to make sure the engine rotates freely. Then pull the carbs and clean them. checking the jet sizes for sure.

 

[noviceskier]

The second thing I'd check would be compression. First thing would be to make sure the engine rotates freely. Then pull the carbs and clean them. checking the jet sizes for sure.

Pulling the carbs off my hx tomorrow I'm pretty sure, went to the mac tools truck yesterday and bought the recommended tools that have been recommended on the forums.

Pretty excited/nervous of what I'll find but also excited because once I am done. (and hopefully done correctly) I will be steps closer for the initial test ride.

Before the semi-rebuild gets somewhat labor intensive (for me atleast, some of these extra clean restoration I have seen in this site are crazy nuts!)

Going to autozone tomorrow to rent the compression test kit, I got the ski to start off some premix but all that tells me is that it starts. Praying to my wallets that everything checks out. I just finished my second day of spraying super clean inside my hull and sacfricing the shop-vac to suck up that majority of mother nature and oil out of the ski.

Fuel lines are ordered and should arrive the 21st, wondering what premix I should run not wanting to rely on the oil injection.

 

[etemplet]

I bought an OTC Compression Tester kit of Ebay I believe. Works great and didn't break the bank. I was surprised. It's worth having a compression tester. Best trouble shooting tool around. LOL

 

[JeremyD615]

I’m going to compression test it for sure. I’m going to go ahead and drain the fuel tank and change the fuel lines before I even start with the rest of the motor though. I’ve got some new hydroturf, and carbs to freshen up on the Speedster, so it’ll take a couple of days before I get back into this one.

 

[JeremyD615]

Well here it is after the first round of cleaning. I’m going to wind up having to paint the hood and do something with the handlebar pad, but I think the hull itself it going to turn out fairly nice after some compounding and polishing.as much as I hate to do it, I think I’m going to wind up stripping the factory decals off as well. I’m going to have to wet sand a few areas, and there are spots where the decals are chewed up anyway.


On another note, the 96’s came with non-accelerator pumps carbs correct? I’ve got a ‘Y’ running between the carbs on this one leading me to believe these are the later style with accelerator pumps. The picture isn’t great, but here is where they split and run to each one.

 

[jts32]

Those are your return lines. They Y into a single line returning to the tank

 

[JeremyD615]

I gotcha. I guess it just looks funky with the carbs flipped sideways like they are on this thing. I’ll have to pull them and get them on the bench to figure out what’s what.

 

[etemplet]

Get the full monty kit with needles and seats genuine Mikuni. You'll save yourself some time and consternation. Once and Done.

 

[etemplet]

Here is my latest XP before the washing began. and after but it still needs a good bit more work !

 

[noviceskier]

Here is my latest XP before the washing began. and after but it still needs a good bit more work !View attachment 39619View attachment 39620

My HX had a lot of that stubborn I just sprayed some diluted bleach and let soak for a minute then blasted off pressure washer with the medium tip

 

[etemplet]

I took this one to the car wash and used the engine cleaner spray. I was pleased with the outcome but definitely more to go. I'll give that a try.

 

[noviceskier]

I took this one to the car wash and used the engine cleaner spray. I was pleased with the outcome but definitely more to go. I'll give that a try.

Yeah it worked really well for me.

Didn't relize phone didn't capture the mold specs seems like it highlighted the yellow in it. The pictures made it look better than it was from when I got it. Looked like yours in person.

Only sad thing about pressure washing was the sacrificing of the one sticker on the hood, maybe you could try a lower psi setting on a pressure washer since using bleach it pretty much made it all wipe off.

 

[JeremyD615]

Soft scrub seems to take the stubborn stuff off pretty well. Toilet bowl cleaner works as well, but I haven’t used it on the ski since I didn’t want to ruin the seat and hood. Now that it looks like I’m going to paint the hood and recover the seat, I may go over it again and see if I can get enough of the tough stuff out to avoid wet sanding. The key to using harsh cleaners like that is to rinse thoughoughly and often during the whole process.

 

[etemplet]

My stickers held but I'm wondering how they'll hold when I begin polishing. I'm not skeerd for remove them and go with new I got the ski at a great price.

 

[noviceskier]

My stickers held but I'm wondering how they'll hold when I begin polishing. I'm not skeerd for remove them and go with new I got the ski at a great price.

What are you gonna use? I got a couple 3m wool pads I will use with some of the compounds miki suggested. Although I might just be stubborn and use the 3 stage compound I have from 3m

 

[jts32]

What are you gonna use? I got a couple 3m wool pads I will use with some of the compounds miki suggested. Although I might just be stubborn and use the 3 stage compound I have from 3m

I've had good luck with the 3M Perfect-it EX using the cheap HF foam buffing pads. It cuts quick and leaves a deep glossy shine.

 

[noviceskier]

I've had good luck with the 3M Perfect-it EX using the cheap HF foam buffing pads. It cuts quick and leaves a deep glossy shine.

I don't have a picture of what I use when detailing cars but I'll copy a pic off google for ya.

 

[jts32]

I don't have a picture of what I use when detailing cars but I'll copy a pic off google for ya.

Yep, same stuff I use to buff BC/CC paint jobs. The EX is an extra cut compound in 3M's Perfect-it line, and seems to work well on the faded chaulky gel coat

 

[noviceskier]

Yep, same stuff I use to buff BC/CC paint jobs. The EX is an extra cut compound in 3M's Perfect-it line, and seems to work well on the faded chaulky gel coat

Rad! My gelcoat is faded going to do start wet sanding 180 on the foot wells and repair some chips on the hull on mine and start the process on the exterior but I lost my flexible block sander lol. process on the yellow is probably gonna be 400 600 800 1200

 

[mikidymac]

I am sure that stuff will work and is really good and expensive but...
You are really better off using a product specifically for gelcoat since the gelcoat specific products have a lot mor oils and lubricants that the automotive lines. As you know faded chalky gelcoat is really dry compared to automotive finishes.

 

[noviceskier]

I am sure that stuff will work and is really good and expensive but...
You are really better off using a product specifically for gelcoat since the gelcoat specific products have a lot mor oils and lubricants that the automotive lines. As you know faded chalky gelcoat is really dry compared to automotive finishes.

Yeah when I wax my ski with the Starbrite marine wax I'll post results on how it goes.

 

[mikidymac]

I like the Starbrite Marine polish with PTFE. It really doesn't restore the finish but once you get the finish buffed out an perfect the Starbrite is super slick and lasts all summer, The water spots come off a lot easier too.