Originally when I tested the compression it was 135 on both so I thought I was good. My other ski had 150 on both. I will pull the head and go from there.That piston is already on the 3rd overbore at 0.75 and the maximum you can go is 1.00 so those cylinders are on their last leg.
Pull the head at this point and take a good look.
If you had one cylinder at 150 and one at 135, that 15 psi difference isn't normal and was the clue something mechanical was wrong.
Ok, guess I was confused with the different compression numbers.Originally when I tested the compression it was 135 on both so I thought I was good. My other ski had 150 on both. I will pull the head and go from there.
My thoughts too when I saw it. I will pull the head and see what is what to be certain.Ok, guess I was confused with the different compression numbers.
It is possible that is a chunk of carbon and not a hole, a hole should show zero compression.
Well thank you for staying calm and rational. Was not a hole. I posted pictures of what I found. The little bit of water in the one cylinder spilled in from the cover, it was not already in the cylinder. I think I was just hopeful to find the problem once and for all. All I could find was this small crack in the top cover... Would that cause any issues?Ok, guess I was confused with the different compression numbers.
It is possible that is a chunk of carbon and not a hole, a hole should show zero compression.
Ok that's ok. I don't know really what to look for so I'm counting on you guys to provide the verdict. I guess it circles back to whether or not that is likely to be my low power issue given all the other things I've eliminated? If I try to squeeze one more top end rebuild out of these cylinders, can it be done with the engine still in place or is it coming out to complete this?Honestly the cylinder walls don’t look great.
I don't see how it would either but just a defect that I observed. Only if it could affect the water jacket at all.That crack how would it affect engine? Just trying to figure that out. If you run your finger on cylinder wall with finger nail is there any rough spots especially around ports especially exhaust port. Till you get cylinders off and look at bottom of piston for wear or rocking hard to tell. Not terrible like some I have seen.
Do a squish test the way it is right now? I've never done one before but I read some instructions and will give it a go. Will also see what I need to do a leak down test.Just cylinders the engine can stay in but I still strongly recommend checking squish and leak down of that engine.
I could see a decent amount of cross thatching. Will try and get a better picture.Hard to tell in pics can you see much cross hatching or line in cylinder walls still. Those line up and down are no big deal as long as there are no edges. My Ktm 20 250xc- w 2 stroke had those at 10 hours and now at 140 hours still the same.