3D Starting Issues

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

speedyboyl

New Member
I am having some issues with getting my 3D started. I am just unsure if it is the same problem as many other people have been having with a low battery. I can hear the solinoid click (once per start/stop button press) but it seems that no power is getting to the starter. The battery feels pretty strong as at random it will start up on one press without holding down the start/stop button. I have a hardwired trickle charger on it that I use while it is sitting for any period of time out of the water.

Additionaly I get the normal beeps and it runs fine when started. I am thinking bad solinoid but please chime in on any other ideas.

Has anyone else had this problem or is it just as simple as a replacement battery.
thanks.

speedyboyl
 
sounds like you have a bad starter relay, very common issue on every model of Seadoo!! you need to check for voltage on the starter side of the relay when you are pressing the button, when you press it and it DOESN'T turn over and you DON'T see 12 volts you have a bad relay, if you press it and you DO have 12 volts on the starter side of the relay and it does NOT turn over you have a dead spot in the starter (armature or brushes) or maybe a bad ground or bad connection on the positive wire to the starter.
 
its crude but the easiest way to test the solenoid is bridge the 2 contacts with anything metal and see if it starts well, if so replace the solenoid. If not check the starter itself as mentioned and also check the main battery cables- especially the negative to the engine.
If they get black wire syndrome then they act like a flat battery, replace them and see the difference
 
I have a 2003 GTI with the same issue, no power on the starter side of the relay, I replaced it with a new starter relay (solenoid) and I still do not have any power. Any thoughts?
 
the only time you should have power on the starter side of the relay is when the start button is pressed (trying to activate starter). Did you get the two beeps when you install the dess cord? or only one beep?? If you are testing it when pushing the button and still no power, check your battery, grounds, make sure all connections are tight (grab the wire and try moving it on the terminal, just because the bolt or nut is tight doesn't mean the cable itself is tight!) let me know what you find
 
wrench,
It has two beeps, I checked it when I'm pressing the button, no power when pressed. I checked all of the connections.
 
ok, you need to check for power and ground with a volt/ohm meter at the signal wires going into the solenoid, you should have close to battery voltage on the yellow/red wire and close to 0 ohms resistance on the black wire, (I cant remember for sure, but I think you will always see 12 volts on the yellow/red wire when you install the key to wake up the ecm and when you press the start button that will give you ground at the solenoid) check your fuses as well!!
 
From what I can see the rectifier controls the voltage much like a voltage regulator in a car. Maintaining a charge isnt a problem. Wrench, I like your idea, I'm going to pull and check the fuses.
 
your ski requires at least 9.8 volts to run rectifier also tells computer that there is enough voltage to run properly.if there isnt then it wont start.I fought mine for a whole summer.then replaced rectifier and no more problems. do yourself a favor change the rectifier
 
Where is this rectifier? I just got a 2005 3D, new plugs, new battery but no cranking --- 2 beeps when lanyard attached. Is there a way to manually turn the engine over? I have never seen this one run and bought it as is.

Thanks

Butch
 
the rectifier is a black box about 4 or 5 inches long by 2 to 3 inches wide with cooling fins on it and 5 wires coming out of it to two plugs one with a black and red wire and one with three yellow wires, it is mounted in front of the mpem at the front of the engine compartment, but the rectifier doesn't have anything to do with starting, in fact you could unplug your rectifier and still start and run the engine, it won't charge the battery and it will set off a code but it will still turn the engine over and run, if the regulator was shorted then it may pull the voltage down in the battery enough to not allow it to start, but you should notice a arch when you hook up the battery, otherwise if you have 12v in the battery it should at least try to turn over, yes a crude way as mentioned before you could short the relay out and see if it turns over but that can cause voltage spikes in the system that your very expensive mpem doesn't like! Do you get a click sound when you hit the start button, if you do just check for battery voltage on the starter side of the relay, if there is no voltage it is likely the starter relay, or bad connection.

I know you said you put a new battery in it but do you have 12vdc when you are trying to start the engine, new battery means nothing if you don't verify what the voltage is!

remember when you disconnect and reconnect batteries, always DISCONNECT the negative first, and always CONNECT the positive last, you will prevent voltage spikes which can damage components especially on the newer equipment.
 
I know you said you put a new battery in it but do you have 12vdc when you are trying to start the engine, new battery means nothing if you don't verify what the voltage is!

I got the 3D running yesterday after I took the ECM out, opened it up and let it dry for a day or so ---

Thanks for the reply
 
its crude but the easiest way to test the solenoid is bridge the 2 contacts with anything metal and see if it starts well, if so replace the solenoid. If not check the starter itself as mentioned and also check the main battery cables- especially the negative to the engine.
If they get black wire syndrome then they act like a flat battery, replace them and see the difference

There is a bit more to it than that. You are correct that in many cases this test will give you an answer, however, this is assuming that all the item in front of the solenoid are good to go.

For example, if the MPEM, Starter Relay, Start Switch or the wireing to any of these is bad, jumping the solenoid will not tell you this.
If you jump the solenoid and it cranks, it does tell you that you have good connects, good battery and a good starter.

You need to test for 12 volts at the switch wire on the solenoid. If you get that and by jumping the solenoid it cranks, then you know it is the solenoid. If you do not get 12 volts at the switch wire,,, there is an issue in front of the solenoid.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top