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2001 sportster 5900rpm max

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Well today i checked for scoring and have no signs of scoring. I also did a compression test and had a 123 is this low and if so why. Also changed spark plugs and gapped them 022 is that correct? Checked online and people have the gap all over the place from 016 to 044. Also check what this guy Mr bill says about max rpms and let me know what you think.

http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=318113
 
123psi is okay IMO, check it occasionally (plug changes is a good time) to make sure it doesn't drop much under 120psi At least the pistons weren't scored, keep a close eye on them too when cleaning the RAVE valves. Over time as the rings, cylinder and pistons wear, compression will drop off. At some point combustion gas blowby becomes too great will begin to destroy the oil film providing lubrication between the piston, rings and cylinder.

Once the oil film begins to fail then rapid wear is the result and bits of alumunim begin shedding from the pistons and sticking to the cylinders then it's all down hill from there. This is normal and the goal is to catch it before mechanical failure occurs. Thus, keep an eye on your pistons and compression. Also make sure the engine's fuel system is working properly. If you begin to notice hesitation in the throttle response take care of that any fuel system problems right away b/c hesitation is often a result of running dangerously lean.

I forgot to mention, for the compression test do it before fogging the engine with storage oil b/c the presence of abnormal amounts of oil will produce an abnormally high reading and won't represent the condition of the engine accurately.

0.022 plug gap is good, I think I gap mine to 0.020

A wider gap is undesirable in a 2-stroke engine b/c plug fowling becomes a problem. A wider gap is used in lean running engines to make a fatter spark to ignite the leaner mixture. A 2-stroke is tuned on the rich side thus with the rich fuel and oil a wide gap will cause the plug to sort of short out b/c of being kinda wet with oil and fuel so misfiring becomes an issue.

I agree with Mr. Bill that too much water being injected into the expansion pipe cone will limit your top RPM result. The WB valve is supposed to restrict the quantity of water as exhaust box internal pressure increases.

So in your case I think you should check it to confirm it's in good shape and maybe follow Mr. Bills suggestions.

I don't run my boat at high throttle for long periods, I cruise it at around 5000~5200RPM, which seems to be the happy spot. I vary the throttle while cruising as well, 2-strokes don't like to run at a constant speed (they seem to experience more problems).

Edit: I should add, if you decide to pinch the tuned pipe water injection there is a risk you may overheat and damage the rubber coupling between the pipe and the waterbox, ther will be no cooling water being injected into to pipe. So this is only for a quick test b/c damage will occur quickly.

Sometimes even, the rubber coupling between the pipe and water box can become delaminated internally and partially block exhaust flow, this will also limit your top RPM.
 
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It also sounds like you should obtain a copy of the BRP service manual, I downloaded the 2001 jetski service manual b/c I was unable to locate the S/M for the boats. In this manual all of the engines and settings/adjustments are covered, including spark plug gap.

I'm glad you actually measured and adjusted your plug gaps, most people just pull the new ones out of the box and stick them right in. This approach works I guess b/c the factory does set the gap but I find most of them aren't where I want them.
 
120/125PSI seems to all right these days :-D
At least the 4th 951 boat in the forum running well at 120ish compression. (Well, I considered mine "well" before peeking into the Rave's :-D)

No wonder people say 951 is known to fail. It is designed too well :lol:
Probably it will keep going even with 100PSI :-), with the piston / cylinder clearance at 1mm.
I think don't push your machine is the key to keep your 951 healthy. But if you push, it will try its best do.
 
I tried it but no change. There is always smoke at low speed is this bacause the mix is off or is this normal?
 
Locate and unplug your temp sensor it may have failed and it limiting your rpm's

That happened on my 97 challenger last week
 
Yes that's the one that was faulty on my 787 but not 100% sure it's the same placement on the 951

In either case DONT RUN TOO LONG WITH THE SENSOR DISCONECTED
 
Locate and unplug your temp sensor it may have failed and it limiting your rpm's

That happened on my 97 challenger last week

Temp sensor has absolutely no interaction with your CDI or ignition timing, it's simply completes the circuit to the dash beeper and the MPEM will supply constant voltage for a continuous beep.
 
I'm just going off of what the mechanic at my local brp dealer explained to me(where I had the rebuild done) I brought it back to them thinking they messed up but was explained the the temp sensor failing put the engine in 'protect mode'
 
I'm just going off of what the mechanic at my local brp dealer explained to me(where I had the rebuild done) I brought it back to them thinking they messed up but was explained the the temp sensor failing put the engine in 'protect mode'
Negative, no such thing exists on your boat. You may in fact bury the throttle and continue WOT operation with the alarm blaring away until the pistons melt.
 
Hi shuka, sorry I was out moving boats around all day. I forgot if you checked the voltage while running the engine, sometime too much voltage on some seadoos can cause limited RPM's.

Did you try briefly pinching the cone pipe water injection tube?

Are your high speed fuel mixture adjustment needles set to zero turns open? If you think it's running too rich at WOT then if a big change happens by running without the air box then it's probably too rich.

Don't run without the air box though, it's better to adjust the mixture needles to zero (they should not be open).

We went over quite a few items already, so maybe you investigated them all.
 
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Hummm good to know lol but that makes me wonder what was causing my issue of 5900-6000 rpm limit.....

Every shop that rebuilds engines has issues of customers refusing to heed the warnings of no wide open throttle operation for the first X-number of hours when the engine is put back in service. Guess who gets blamed for the new engine failing right away?

They send them out that way with the throttle cable adjustment bottomed out to keep from having to rebuild motors a second time in less than a month. When you come back and complain they adjust it and the oil pump properly and everyone's happy.

See what just happened there? Interesting story they told you regarding the audible overheat warning, I see no issue in simply reading the MPEM for current operating hours before it's sent out and asking the customer to return after the specified break in period for restoration of full throttle operation and oil pump adjustment. You'll know sufficient time has been put on the new engine by simply reading the MPEM for additional run time.

Shame they just don't come right out and tell you the truth up front.

Mr. Shuka, I have been re-reading the issues you've been dealing with and the excellent advice Mr. Sportster has been kind enough to give. If you simply have reached the point where your ready to pull the remainder of your hair out trying to get to the bottom of this I'm just across the expressway in South Bend. If you'd like to come over some day I'd be happy to take a look at that for you, sometimes a fresh pair of eyes is all it takes and water testing is only a 5 minute drive to the launch ramp.
 
Mr. Shuka, I have been re-reading the issues you've been dealing with and the excellent advice Mr. Sportster has been kind enough to give. If you simply have reached the point where your ready to pull the remainder of your hair out trying to get to the bottom of this I'm just across the expressway in South Bend. If you'd like to come over some day I'd be happy to take a look at that for you, sometimes a fresh pair of eyes is all it takes and water testing is only a 5 minute drive to the launch ramp.

Shuka, you must take him up on this kind offer! :)
 
Shuka, you must take him up on this kind offer! :)

I believe you have covered every possible avenue here that can cause these issues he is having and the problem remains, the only thing I might contend is that for general purpose tuning not limited to the 951 there is an added benefit in tuning the high side of the pto carb circuit just slightly richer to compensate for the typical temperature differences found between the pto and mag cylinder's.

I have taken to tuning these motor's in the water, my meters have temperature probe ports and I measure cylinder temps on both ends after I rebuild the carbs if I happen to have the boat here. Typically it's only about 1/8 of a turn out or less on the pto side to get them balanced.
 
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I believe you have covered every possible avenue here that can cause these issues he is having and the problem remains, the only thing I might contend is that for general purpose tuning not limited to the 951 there is an added benefit in tuning the high side of the pto carb circuit just slightly richer to compensate for the typical temperature differences found between the pto and mag cylinder's.

I have taken to tuning these motor's in the water, my meters have temperature probe ports and I measure cylinder temps on both ends after I rebuild the carbs if I happen to have the boat here. Typically it's only about 1/8 of a turn out or less on the pto side to get them balanced.

Hey water lover. I would like to do the cylinder temperature measurement too. Where did you put the thermocouples?
I was checking the engine temperature during break in. I found that the head is always cold and the lower part of the cylinder is hot (around 70C).
 
Hey water lover. I would like to do the cylinder temperature measurement too. Where did you put the thermocouples?
I was checking the engine temperature during break in. I found that the head is always cold and the lower part of the cylinder is hot (around 70C).
The lower portion of the cylinders as close to center of the crank / rod as you can get to take temperature readings under load. I use a piece of butyl putty (the sticky stuff they use to insulate thermal expansion refrigerant metering valves) to stick the probe right on the cylinder and hold it there.

I always bought meters with additional temperature probe capabilities as I did quite a bit of reverse cycle heat and air conditioning repair on larger vessels and needed that extra capability, they come in really handing for fine tuning these Rotax engines.
 
The lower portion of the cylinders as close to center of the crank / rod as you can get to take temperature readings under load. I use a piece of butyl putty (the sticky stuff they use to insulate thermal expansion refrigerant metering valves) to stick the probe right on the cylinder and hold it there.

I always bought meters with additional temperature probe capabilities as I did quite a bit of reverse cycle heat and air conditioning repair on larger vessels and needed that extra capability, they come in really handing for fine tuning these Rotax engines.

I will give it a try and put a data logger there to get some interesting curves.
The MAG end extra metal parts act as a heatsinks for MAG cylinder I guess?

What temperature did you get on you cylinder under load?
 
I will give it a try and put a data logger there to get some interesting curves.
The MAG end extra metal parts act as a heatsinks for MAG cylinder I guess?

What temperature did you get on you cylinder under load?
I have tested several this way over the last couple weeks and I find the range of operating temperatures varies from approximately 140*f to 170*f. You are correct that the Mag end acts as a heatsink and also the combined load being placed on the pto shaft end from both cylinders contributes to higher temp's.

You won't get them perfectly balanced but you can make it much better with a small adjustment.
 
Friction between moving objects generates heat from kinetic energy, you have two sources of kinetic energy from both cylinders being loaded heavily from only one end of the crankshaft. Make sense?

wow, i thought the heat is from the combustion. :facepalm:
Thanks for clarifying that. This makes me thinking the temperature on the crank case body or cylinder bodies would be a good indication of something is going wrong.
 
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