1st time PWC owner - What to do before I take them out? (lots of questions)

[AKnarrowback]

They are good machines.

 

[Keenerboy]

Bought 2 PWC for cheap, not running as they had been sitting for 12 years. I have since rebuilt the carbs, ran new fuel lines, changed spark plugs, re-covered seats, and cleaned em. That's it. They both run pretty damn good, wish I had seen the carb rebuild sticky here before hand but things turned out well.

One is a 94' Seedoo XP, and the other is a 94 Kawasaki SS 750.

• What else should I check/replace before the maiden voyage?
• Is there engine/gear oil to change?
• Should I change the jet pump oil on em before testing in the lake for a bit?
• What should I check to ensure I won't be taking on water?
• How does the bilge system work on these?
• The seedoo has riveted footpads that are coming up, will those loose rivets cause me to take on too much water to test em this weekend?
• The trailer has stationary mount points for the PWC. The kawasaki is properly mounted with a rubber L bracket thing that a pin slides through into the front anchor hole. The seedoo however has a mounting point not directly on the front nose, but rather a loop underneath the bow. How do I properly mount this to the stationary pole on the trailer? is there some sort of other rubber bracket for it that I don't know about?

Any other advice or tips would be appreciated too! Thanks yall!

Installing a fuel primer system is a good idea. Make for easy starting saving battery and starter motor. But does involve removing the carbs to install primer line pick ups and blocks when you remove the choke butterfly.
I found plumbing the tee into the return fuel line works best. There’s lots of info from SBT. Other than removing and replacing the the carbs it’s not that big a job.

 

[R-u-n2it]

Best thing to take on your 1st outing (and every outing) is a tow rope and small needle nose vice grips.

 

[djcalied]

Installing a fuel primer system is a good idea. Make for easy starting saving battery and starter motor. But does involve removing the carbs to install primer line pick ups and blocks when you remove the choke butterfly.
I found plumbing the tee into the return fuel line works best. There’s lots of info from SBT. Other than removing and replacing the the carbs it’s not that big a job.

Will look into doing this over the winter on both skiis, along with oil block off kit possibly. Right now I am tackling the headache of running new oil lines and cleaning out the 4 stroke motor oil the dumb*** PO put in it. Luckily i noticed before taking the seadoo out on the water.

Definitely have a tow rope and the OEM tool kit plus some other stuff. I always bring a toolbox in the truck everywhere anyways

 

[JeremyD615]

I would highly recommend NOT installing an oil block off kit, as the stock oil system is dead nuts reliable and uses far less oil. I wouldn’t install primer kits on a stock ski either. For one, you remove the choke butterflies when you do that, and it requires some carb tuning once you change the airflow. Second, if you ever have a runaway issue, you will be very thankful that you still have the choke, as it’s about the only way to kill a runaway motor...

 

[mikidymac]

I agree on the oil injection and keeping the choke.
If your carbs are good there’s no need for primers and the choke works great.

 

[djcalied]

I agree on the oil injection and keeping the choke.
If your carbs are good there’s no need for primers and the choke works great.

Noted, thanks for the info guys

 

[R-u-n2it]

The only advantage a primer has is it injects fuel before start button is touched and you know when a primer works by the resistance felt when pushing it, and for the performance above all else freaks a tiny bit less air restriction. I don't remember if I had a choice with the Buckshot 46mm. And can't you just pull the lanyard for a runaway? If my ski was a little lean on idle/pilot and started to rev on the cart I'd just give it a shot with the primer to bring the rpm down so that works the same as a choke.