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1997 XP - Just completed my first ride - I have questions

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Yes and chances are there would be leakage when in water running. But sometimes when extremely warn the boot looses some tension which can cause cavitation (air leaks or can vacuumed into the pump). If that is the case, you can loosen the clamp on in the carbon seal and slide the boot back on it as to increase pressure on the boot to push the carbon seal to seal up harder against its mating surface.
 
Yes and chances are there would be leakage when in water running. But sometimes when extremely warn the boot looses some tension which can cause cavitation (air leaks or can vacuumed into the pump). If that is the case, you can loosen the clamp on in the carbon seal and slide the boot back on it as to increase pressure on the boot to push the carbon seal to seal up harder against its mating surface.

There is very little water in the hull at all after i run. The seal looks really good. However, the metal it mates up to isnt' exactly inline with one another. They're off slightly, is that an issue?
 
The metal part of the carbon seal is tight on the drive shaft. The carbon ring is fixed to the rubber boot. The boot is going to "droop" over time. Sounds like that is what you are seeing, or motor needs aligned.
I just replaced my cs with the early style seal with the bearing.
 
The metal part of the carbon seal is tight on the drive shaft. The carbon ring is fixed to the rubber boot. The boot is going to "droop" over time. Sounds like that is what you are seeing, or motor needs aligned.
I just replaced my cs with the early style seal with the bearing.

That's possible. However, when I say that are not in line, I mean horizontally, not vertically. Which I imagine, droop; would be vertical. But there's also a possibility the engine isn't aligned. But i'm not taking on water and the carbon seal itself looks good. So is the carbon seal still a possible culprit?
 
Keep in mind that the intake grate not only keeps large things out of the impeller like feet and hands but it also directs water into the pump. The back of it actually fills a large gap in the bottom of the shoe and scoops water into the pump.
 
I'd put a boot on the shaft and a grate back on and see what you have. The grate may solve your issue but it is hard to say when we really don't know exactly what and when it's doing. Post up a pic of the boot and carbon seal if you can.
 
I'd put a boot on the shaft and a grate back on and see what you have. The grate may solve your issue but it is hard to say when we really don't know exactly what and when it's doing. Post up a pic of the boot and carbon seal if you can.


Well I have a boot on the prop and an intake grate.... still got cavitation :(. At this point i'm tempted to say it is the prop. I do see where when he installed the wear ring; the little seal that goes on before the pump is put back on has been "biten" by the prop. May have ripped a chunk out of it. Is that a problem?
 
Keep in mind that the intake grate not only keeps large things out of the impeller like feet and hands but it also directs water into the pump. The back of it actually fills a large gap in the bottom of the shoe and scoops water into the pump.

Well I have a boot on the prop and an intake grate.... still got cavitation . At this point i'm tempted to say it is the prop. I do see where when he installed the wear ring; the little seal that goes on before the pump is put back on has been "biten" by the prop. May have ripped a chunk out of it. Is that a problem?
 
Chances are much smaller that it is a prop issue. That is unless there is visual damage to it or someone has swapped it out from stock. For cavitation, it will most likely be wear ring or carbon ring.

I think it has been swapped from stock. The serial number is correct on it. But it's scratched off and re-written. It looks like someone took a prop from something else and made it work for mine
 
you shouldn't have anything that looks "bitten". and, if theres no major chunks or bends in the prop, you're barking up the wrong tree. 1st, you NEED to take a pic of the carbon seal setup and post it if you want help.

2nd, you say it was your first ride after rebuild.. did YOU install this motor? if your ski is flat in the water and if you don't punch it, but gradually hit the gas and you're getting that "spinning" feeling, your rubber coupler in between your two piece driveshaft may be loose, slipping, or the two metal couplers may be off kilter. did you install this motor and align it yourself? did you use the alignment tool? did you find any yellow, white or red chunks in the back of the ski inside of it? my rubber coupler went out and I had the SAME symptoms.
 
you shouldn't have anything that looks "bitten". and, if theres no major chunks or bends in the prop, you're barking up the wrong tree. 1st, you NEED to take a pic of the carbon seal setup and post it if you want help.

2nd, you say it was your first ride after rebuild.. did YOU install this motor? if your ski is flat in the water and if you don't punch it, but gradually hit the gas and you're getting that "spinning" feeling, your rubber coupler in between your two piece driveshaft may be loose, slipping, or the two metal couplers may be off kilter. did you install this motor and align it yourself? did you use the alignment tool? did you find any yellow, white or red chunks in the back of the ski inside of it? my rubber coupler went out and I had the SAME symptoms.

I did put the engine in myself. I aligned it myself as well. I have no chunks of anything in the hull and my plastic piece in there was red.
 
I think it has been swapped from stock. The serial number is correct on it. But it's scratched off and re-written. It looks like someone took a prop from something else and made it work for mine

The last 3 numbers are scratched out????? Seadoo was tweaking impellers and would take a stock impeller and re-pitch it and give it a new number. Very common. 97 was a hull change year so they were tweaking chit.


Do you have part#3 on the ski? It is a chubby o-ring that goes behind the bellow on the carbon seal set up. It's a "spacer" to push the boot further and put more tension on the carbon seal.




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Did you put a neoprene seal in on teh plastic pump support to help seal the wear ring to the pump support?





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The last 3 numbers are scratched out????? Seadoo was tweaking impellers and would take a stock impeller and re-pitch it and give it a new number. Very common. 97 was a hull change year so they were tweaking chit.


Do you have part#3 on the ski? It is a chubby o-ring that goes behind the bellow on the carbon seal set up. It's a "spacer" to push the boot further and put more tension on the carbon seal.




228.jpg

Is part #3 on the inside of the hull or the outside of the hull? I see part #20 when I look in there. Also yes the neoprene ring is what I'm talking about when I say a chunk is missing from that part. But now I feel like it's not that either. Before and after the wear ring replacement, there was absolutely zero change. The cavitation didn't get worse or better.
 
97' XP doesn't use the neoprene seal according to the parts diagram. Still not sure what their rhyme or reason was.
 
97' XP doesn't use the neoprene seal according to the parts diagram. Still not sure what their rhyme or reason was.

Correct,they relied on the lip on the wear ring to seal. They only show them on a few skis. I use them on every ski/boat I work on.
 
Correct,they relied on the lip on the wear ring to seal. They only show them on a few skis. I use them on every ski/boat I work on.

Okay well it shouldn't be a problem that mine wasn't installed correctly then? Also, is that ring on the inside of the hull or the outside?
 
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