1996 seadoo xp won't crank with spark plugs in

[lilskipp84]

At first it wouldn't crank for more then a heavy clunk, tested battery and was 100% fine with load tester. Then checked starter and that was fine. Pulled plugs and hit start and it cranked flawless. Put in one plug and it crank, then put in back plug and it wouldn't crank, almost like a seizing sound where it can't overcome the compression. Was letting it crank without plugs to spit out the fogging oil. At one point I got it to crank full with both sparkpligs in but it didn't take, so I tried again and the non cranking problem happened again. Any ideas or suggestions?...

 

[jhjesse]

Check all battery cables for corrosion/bad connection.
If that is not it, then the starter is probably weak and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. I would NOT purchase the cheap ebay starters. They are junk. Get a rebuild kit and rebuild it yourself. Super easy to do.
If you don't want to do that, then get a good used OEM starter from Minnetonka.

 

[Coastiejoe]

How did you check the starter?

If you KNOW the batter is good, you have a bad starter, bad or poor connection cables.

What did the voltage drop to when the battery was load tested?

 

[lilskipp84]

Well the starter fired when jumping it outta the ski, i connected it to the battery with jumpers and it spun cleanly under power. The starter was fine end of last season, is that something that can randomly go over the winter? This is all my first startup for the season gettin ready for summer. Voltage was 12.6 and then in the 10s under load, I have two skis and both battery's fire up the other ski fine, but neither fire up this one in question. like I said, it seems to not be able to overcome the compression for whatever reason. Would the fogging oil be holding anything up from wonterizing?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Well the starter fired when jumping it outta the ski, i connected it to the battery with jumpers and it spun cleanly under power. The starter was fine end of last season, is that something that can randomly go over the winter? This is all my first startup for the season gettin ready for summer. Voltage was 12.6 and then in the 10s under load, I have two skis and both battery's fire up the other ski fine, but neither fire up this one in question. like I said, it seems to not be able to overcome the compression for whatever reason. Would the fogging oil be holding anything up from wonterizing?

Your battery is the issue. The Seadoo can NOT crank on 10.6 volts. Further, the MPEM can not work at 10.5 volts. Under a load it needs to be 11.8 ish for it to work in a Seadoo.

 

[lilskipp84]

Then why would they both fire the one ski up but neither fire up the other

 

[Coastiejoe]

Then why would they both fire the one ski up but neither fire up the other

The "other" ski probably has a good starter, cables and cable connections. The one that will not starter has one of those items that is staring to fail. But I am certain that 10.6 is simply to low of volts. This is especially true for a non OEM starter. Once they start to fail they require major volts and amps.

Does the ski have an aftermarket starter?

Is your other ski the same engine? If so, swap the starters and see what happens. It will answer the question...

 

[bajaman123]

Maybe I am out in la-la land but, it sounds like a classic case of 'hydro-lock' to me, in that your fogging oil or some other liquid is incompressible in the cylinder(s).
If it was me, I'd crank the living crap out of it with the plugs out and make sure there isn't anything in the cylinders.
If it STILL acts up, follow Coastiejoe's lead.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Maybe I am out in la-la land but, it sounds like a classic case of 'hydro-lock' to me, in that your fogging oil or some other liquid is incompressible in the cylinder(s).
If it was me, I'd crank the living crap out of it with the plugs out and make sure there isn't anything in the cylinders.
If it STILL acts up, follow Coastiejoe's lead.

Certainly worth confirming as it is free. I just assume this isn't the issue as the OP stated he had the plugs out and cranked it. But again, not an issue pulling them and see if any liquid comes out...

 

[lilskipp84]

In was doing that to pump out the oil, got hung up by a 3 yr old so I'll continue tomo....I was gonna swap the starter but it's such a a pain in the ass doing, let alone doing it to both

 

[bajaman123]

In was doing that to pump out the oil, got hung up by a 3 yr old so I'll continue tomo....I was gonna swap the starter but it's such a a pain in the ass doing, let alone doing it to both

Amen to that, brother!

Heck, I'd buy a second known-good starter before I took TWO off!!!

 

[lilskipp84]

I'm going to get these battery's tested at advanced auto on a better machine...what numbers are considered best?...what at sitting and what at load?...thanks brotha

 

[Coastiejoe]

Problem solved, bad battery.

Buy a MARINE QUALITY battery. An acid cell will be right around $100-$120 and a gel cell a bit higher. Do NOT use a cheap battery. Mine last 4 or 5 years on average. I just replaced my OEM batter in my 2010 with another OEM battery purchased through Autozone. A bit more affordable but proven quality.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[lilskipp84]

Just a follow up, after back and frothing with removing one plug and cranking, removing opposite plug and cranking, I ended up borrowing a buddy's battery and it turns out these brand new battery's purchased from advance auto (autocraft power sport battery)....only lasted one summer...so won't be buying these cheap $89 battery's again...thank you all!

 

[racerxxx]

Dang, that sucks. I think my HX is going on the 3rd season with one---hopefully. To lessen the sting you really need to google for advanced coupon codes. I think I was paying like $60 shipped at one point.

I know you won't buy another one but here's a for instance:

You can add a T16L battery ($89.99) and a $1.49 pack of dielectric grease (part#09980) to get you to $91.48 + $10 core. Use promo code HUGE30 and the battery will end up after you return the core $65.17 with tax and a little pack of grease. I have tons of those little packs of grease just to get me over the price hump. If there is other stuff you need you can get X off $100 or more some times.


Did you charge the battery or just figure it was good to go? I didn't read that you charged it.

Did you let it sit outside all winter, our wither was really cold this year and that isn't good for a battery in my opinion. I always bring mine in from the toys to the mowers.

 

[lilskipp84]

T16L battery...is that what I should get?...mine now is a autocraft etx16L and its crap...

 

[lilskipp84]

Yes I charged them both on 2 amps with an auto off charger...and they were in the shed on the bench all winter

 

[racerxxx]

They don't list the etx16L, that used to be the prior battery they sold under the Extreme Magna Power name. But it could have carried over to the Autocraft name for a short while. They're both made by Deka. So is that 2 amp charger a battery tender of sorts? If so it's possible that that fried the battery or that it's not charging properly. I don't own a tender, I've always had good luck with batteries. I just remove the batteries in the fall and then put them on a real battery charger in the spring for the day. I figure if I get 2 or 3 seasons out of a battery that is good enough for me, last thing I was is a battery taking a chit on the river or in the ocean. Everyone has their own formula and I'm not here to debate that.

 

[lilskipp84]

I bought a cheap tender of Amazon for $40...had auto off and all...apparently either fried one battery or something cuz after a full charge it dropped to 8V on a load...the actual charger is high end, 2amp 10amp all auto off...one from work, isn't cheap...but you guys were right, I thought no way these new battery's are shot, went as far as ripping down to the starter, all for nothing... Thanks for the smarter advice fellas!..I shoulda listened and dug a lilt deeper into the battery!

 

[mikidymac]

My friend had the exact same thing happen with the Walmart Everstarts. Two identical new batteries and they would both start his 1997 GTX with no issues at all but in his 1997 XP neither would crank it with plugs in but fine with them out. I kept telling him it was the battery but he swapped starters, solenoids and even on/off buttons with no cure. As soon as he tried a good NAPA battery it has fired every time.

 

[howie099]

Sounds like a weak battery. The starter could get rust in it over the winter if the seal leaks but that usually keeps it from engaging. Get a good battery and I bet it will turn right over.

 

[bajaman123]

these sort of threads need to be 'stickies' for all to read and learn from. Note that the experienced guys were saying "battery...battery...BATTERY!" all along.
There is no substitute for experience.

 

[mikidymac]

Experience is great but unfortunately most of us have gotten it from making these mistakes in the past. Glad we can help other avoid it.

I also agree we need to revamp the Stickies.

 

[Raymond 88]

Hey Guys,
I am having the exact same problem with a 1999 GSX RFI that I bought late last year. Started out as hydrolock and I have cranked the heck out of it with no plugs to get as much oil out as i can. I have a question about the failed battery. If you were to boost the questionable battery with cables from another sea doo battery that was taken out of the machine, shouldn't that give you enough juice to get the starter cranking with the plugs in? On my 787 it does not seem to make any difference whatsoever in the umphhh sound from the starter even when boosting with another fully charged battery. Would the starter turn over the engine fine with no plugs if there was a bad connection.? thanks

 

[lilskipp84]

mine turned out to b full blown battery...was reading good but on a load had like 7V....grab a new battery..use a advanced auto code and get the 30% off....mine fired right up with the brand new battery...