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Xp 800 won't run in water

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Dooxp787

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I am new to the forum and new to pwc's. I bought my 96 xp 800 last fall in pretty rough shape. I bought a new used haul and switched over all my components into the new haul. I got the engine running (first time I had heard it run) but it would not restart when it was warm. It would start fine cold, just a no go when warm, pulled the plugs and they where wet. I cleaned the carbs and put in new seat and neadle. Now the machine will usually start cold ok, but not great and will sometimes start warm but not always, if it's warm I can let it sit for 10 min and then it will usually start. Now this is all done while the machine is on the trailer (ran on garden hose) Yesterday for the first time I tried to start it in the water, it would not go. I pulled it out of the water and then it would start and run fine, put it back in and again a no go. So I pulled it out and fired it up, then quickly backed it up into the water, as soon as the prop is in the water the engine just bogs out. The high speed screw on the carb is at 0 the low speed is at I believe 1.5 turns out, idle at 3000 on the trailer. I checked the rotary valve and it is timed correctly. I can slide a .012" feeler gauge between the valve and cover with some drag, I think spec is .010" +- .002. It has bright blue spark in each cylinder when it is cranking over. Compression is 150 and 152. I know there are lots of other posts around on different forums about this issue, but I couldn't find any with the same symptoms as mine. Could this be a possible air leak, maybe electrically? I hope someone can help. I should also mention that the previous owner said the last time he had it in the water is was boggy for him so he decided to pull the top end apart to reseal it, he never had it running after he had done that.
 
Check under the ski at the prop with flashlight and see if u see rope or something restricting the prop. The boys here r riding they will talk u through some simple steps to diagnose. They riding now. Try that for starters.
 
It sounds like the cooling water is leaking into the cylinders. I suspect the previous owners "reseal" job is suspect.

Make sure the linkage did not fall off the carbs causing the rear one not to open.
 
But if it leaks water in the combustion chanber, the wouldn't it do that aswell when it's running on the garden hose? The spark plugs do not come out really wet when it dies in the water.
 
You can cut an old washing machine hose so you can fasten one end to your garden hose and the other going in the rear left(lower) side of the head. That way you feeding the engine the cooling water the same way that the pump does. As long as the engine is running you should be able to run the hose full blast without affecting the engines idle at all.
 
The mag carb has to suck fuel from the tanks fuel bafel, thru water separator filter and a selector valve. All these carry the suction from carbs pump. Each of these has fuel line clamps, and if just one is loose, or faulty, or restricted, the carb cannot push the fuel thru them and return unused back to tank. Hence: the engine gets too much air and not enough fuel for proper combustion to keep the engine running once a load is put on it..


Bills86e
 
Ok I might try feeding it water like that tomorrow then. And Bills86e now that u mention it, I did notice that there seams to be a lot of fuel flowing through the return line (noticed by very very small air bubbles in the line) and the fuel lines have been replaced and there are a lot of connections that have no clamps on them, but the lines fit on the fittings tight and don't leak fuel. It does seam like the carbs get enough fuel, the lines are always full and not many air bubbles. I will take a look again tomorrow.
 
Clamp all connections! They might not leak fuel, but they might suck some air. Also, are you going by ear on the rpm? Have you tried the choke pull while running and backing into the water? Sounds like a idle too low issue.
 
I set the idle with my multimeter, it has a rpm probe with it. I'll pick up some clamps from work tomorrow and clamp all the lines then.
 
I got the machine to run in the water, I bumped the idle up a bit from
The 3000, so I am at about 3400 now, I also richness the low speed screws, but I think now it is too rich because it's very boggy, and hard to get it to run at high rpm. I hope to put it back in the lake yet one evening this week to try it again.
 
Is your fuel on all the way? Choke cable not sticking? Did you trim your plug wires .25in back yet? Get a gallon of good fuel and stick a hose from it onto your carbs to make sure it's not your fuel lines/ selector switch. I always run my skis with a little inline fuel filter to keep junk out of my carb filters.
Last check is to pressure test the motor, but that's a pretty involved test and requires special tools and partial disassembly
 
It is sparking on both cylinders. And I also have a small inline filter before the carbs. I leaned the carbs back out a bit this evening and when runnin on land it doesn't seems to backfire and it seams to rev up ok, but again that's on land, I am hoping to try it in the lake tomorrow after work. I'll also cut the spark plug wires back a bit tomorrow.
 
Install new plugs and bypass the fuel selector switch and inline filter. Take fuel line from carb to "res" fitting on baffle. The fitting is to the left of the sending unit wires
 
I had it running on the water last night, I never switched the lines like u said, I have clear fuel lines and I can see that the line going into the carbs stays full and has no air bubbles in it. I forgot to cut the spark plug wires back a bit, the ski seams to run pretty good at high rpms but is still very boggy in the low rpms. The low speed screws are at about 1 and 3/8 of a turn out and high at 0. I am running without the complete air box so that making adjustments is easier. I still have the little mesh scream in place tho. It is still a hard or no start in the water but will start on the trailer, it will idle in the water for about 20 seconds but then will stall. I think I am gonna try lean it out a bit more because the spark plugs are a bit on the black side still. I also am gonna adjust the oil cable because I believe it is a bit rich on oil. FYI I did install new plugs last night
 
Sounds like leaky needle and seat. Or too low popoff pressure. Leaky needle will cause you to be too rich in low end, but will flow well at wot
 
Also don't run it with the airbox off. Those carbs were designed to have the high vacuum of the air box to run correctly.
 
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