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Worthless ski pylon?
- Thread starter scooper77515
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Dad has since retired. I was thinking this fall about borrowing the shop and making maybe 5 or 10 of them.
Gotta wait til the weather cools down. It is too hot to sit in front of a lathe for 8 hours.
I still have my original one if someone wants it. The stock one.
Gotta wait til the weather cools down. It is too hot to sit in front of a lathe for 8 hours.
I still have my original one if someone wants it. The stock one.
It is a very simple design. You could pound them out in minutes with a cnc. Mine was made by hand and i changed the stock design just a touch.
I made the head a bit bigger. If i did it again i would make the knob out of stainless and run a bolt down the top to hold it on. Or make it from larger stock and make it all from one piece. But that would end up wasting a lot of material.
I made the head a bit bigger. If i did it again i would make the knob out of stainless and run a bolt down the top to hold it on. Or make it from larger stock and make it all from one piece. But that would end up wasting a lot of material.
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moosehead
New Member
Thanks for the idea and making the proto happen Scooper.
When the primary alternative is an $800 tower (minimum), the stainless ski pole replacement should be in demand at a price that makes sense for an entrepreneur to produce.
Sorry if this has been beaten to death, but are there any other alternatives such as a traditional surface-mount hook and loop higher up on the transom (vs. the lower transom loops used primarily for trailer tie downs)?
When the primary alternative is an $800 tower (minimum), the stainless ski pole replacement should be in demand at a price that makes sense for an entrepreneur to produce.
Sorry if this has been beaten to death, but are there any other alternatives such as a traditional surface-mount hook and loop higher up on the transom (vs. the lower transom loops used primarily for trailer tie downs)?
There is the taller pole that you can mount to the floor and use guy wires (guide wires?) that go out 4 different directions to hold it stable.
A little too much for me. My boat is already pretty tight.
My dad's old boss owes me some money for some computer repairs, and is an old family friend, so i am confident he would let me use the shop whenever I wanted. I used to do some machine work for him as well.
If this thread is revived around October or when the weather cools off, I will go in and make about 10 of them. I am pretty sure they would sell for at least the cost and time it takes to make them.
A little too much for me. My boat is already pretty tight.
My dad's old boss owes me some money for some computer repairs, and is an old family friend, so i am confident he would let me use the shop whenever I wanted. I used to do some machine work for him as well.
If this thread is revived around October or when the weather cools off, I will go in and make about 10 of them. I am pretty sure they would sell for at least the cost and time it takes to make them.
I own a Utopia which has no ski pole at all. The only option is the transom mounted eyelet. I looked at the Big Air pole that sits in the middle of your boat with the four straps. I would like to hear if anyone has ever used one before investing ~$300.
I am also trying to figure out if I can mount something to my swim platform that would be sturdy yet removable. Maybe somehow attach a low profile base and rig the pole so it gets it's support by connecting to the transom mounted eyelet.
Anyone have any ideas?
I am also trying to figure out if I can mount something to my swim platform that would be sturdy yet removable. Maybe somehow attach a low profile base and rig the pole so it gets it's support by connecting to the transom mounted eyelet.
Anyone have any ideas?
I was thinking about something like that, a pole that mounts on the platform, with straps going to the rear cleats for pulling support, then maybe one down to the rear of the platform just to hold it up when not being used.
I am sure it would cost me $300 in parts before I got it all set up the way I wanted it to be...
I am sure it would cost me $300 in parts before I got it all set up the way I wanted it to be...
Just talked with the owner of the shop and he said no problem with me using it on the weekend, or at least during a slow time during the week.
So I will try to pound out 10 or so of these.
Starting another thread to see how many people might want one.
Let me know the model number if you join that thread, and I will try to find the dimensions.
I will put approx prices up after I find the material and make sure it is still cost effective to make them.
So I will try to pound out 10 or so of these.
Starting another thread to see how many people might want one.
Let me know the model number if you join that thread, and I will try to find the dimensions.
I will put approx prices up after I find the material and make sure it is still cost effective to make them.
ACABThomas
New Member
Replacement pylon found
It looks like you can get a replacement OEM pylon from http://www.worldofpowersports.com
I found a replacement one for my 2006 Sportster here for $37.49 + $11 for S&H.
I haven't replaced mine yet, so can't vouch for this site, but looks like a decent option. Certainly not as strong as a solid stainless one though.
It looks like you can get a replacement OEM pylon from http://www.worldofpowersports.com
I found a replacement one for my 2006 Sportster here for $37.49 + $11 for S&H.
I haven't replaced mine yet, so can't vouch for this site, but looks like a decent option. Certainly not as strong as a solid stainless one though.
Hi Guys ,
I have a 2004 Seadoo Speedster 200 .. The factory pylon i've got is pretty good however when wakeboarding the low height of it causes problems.
I was wondering if anyone knows of a way to extend the height of the pylon to 6 or 7 feet...or some alternative to the expensive tower.
Any help would be appreciated.
thanks
I have a 2004 Seadoo Speedster 200 .. The factory pylon i've got is pretty good however when wakeboarding the low height of it causes problems.
I was wondering if anyone knows of a way to extend the height of the pylon to 6 or 7 feet...or some alternative to the expensive tower.
Any help would be appreciated.
thanks
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Interesting thread here.
My son just bought a 97 Challenger (single engine) Can he use the pylon for a ski rope? It looks like they are not designed very well. I'd rather know going in if the pylon is likely to bend or break. The boat also has a rope tie lower where the water pees out. Should that be used rather than the pylon?
Sorry newbee here not sure of the correct terminology.
My son just bought a 97 Challenger (single engine) Can he use the pylon for a ski rope? It looks like they are not designed very well. I'd rather know going in if the pylon is likely to bend or break. The boat also has a rope tie lower where the water pees out. Should that be used rather than the pylon?
Sorry newbee here not sure of the correct terminology.
I have used the aluminum pylon and the tow hook, and since there really isn't much wake behind the 97 challenger, it doesn't make much difference. I still have the stock aluminum pylon, straight, if someone wants it. Ski shaft in link listed above says $0.00, so it is either free, or no longer available...
I have the pylon with the nylon knob at the top, and can sell it if needed. It worked for my 200lb butt on a wake board, two skis, attempted slalom ski, and on a surfboard, but I used the stainless one I made after hearing that they tend to bend if over used.
It extends to about 4 or 5 feet above the water, which is MUCH better than the near-water-level tow hook when it comes to pulling one up, but once up, not much difference in the ability to ski behind the boat. Less chance for the rope to catch in the wake, which can be annoying.
If anyone needs it, PM me, because i have sold the boat and no longer need it. It is just sitting in my garage wasting space.
And Phildoo is right, the tow hook is more for towing disabled boats and such. Where you don't mind the rope getting caught up in the wake. For pull sports such as wakeboarding, skiing, or even tubing, the higher you can get the rope, the better.
I have the pylon with the nylon knob at the top, and can sell it if needed. It worked for my 200lb butt on a wake board, two skis, attempted slalom ski, and on a surfboard, but I used the stainless one I made after hearing that they tend to bend if over used.
It extends to about 4 or 5 feet above the water, which is MUCH better than the near-water-level tow hook when it comes to pulling one up, but once up, not much difference in the ability to ski behind the boat. Less chance for the rope to catch in the wake, which can be annoying.
If anyone needs it, PM me, because i have sold the boat and no longer need it. It is just sitting in my garage wasting space.
And Phildoo is right, the tow hook is more for towing disabled boats and such. Where you don't mind the rope getting caught up in the wake. For pull sports such as wakeboarding, skiing, or even tubing, the higher you can get the rope, the better.
Final note, as for me making new ones out of stainless...Dad has retired and moved to Yuma, and I have pretty much severed ties with the owner of the machine shop (has stiffed me on a couple of computer repair jobs, so I don't call him anymore). So there is little chance of using his shop, even though he owes me, and knows it, and would let me use the shop to make up for paying his debts to me.
But I am not in the mood to mess with those debts...Letting bygones be bygones, and being gone.
But I am not in the mood to mess with those debts...Letting bygones be bygones, and being gone.
Try yours out, and if it bends, let me know, and I will use the original one I have as a template for stainless ones.
I can still use the guy's shop (he owes me), and live the next town over now, so much closer.
I can still use the guy's shop (he owes me), and live the next town over now, so much closer.
My 2008 Challenger 230 's not only bent it actually broke (snapped) and damaged the fiberglass hull at the same time. I have been going round and round with BRP about hull warranty and getting it replaced. It would appear that this is a larger issue than they think, because they told me that they don't have any reported problems with the retractable pylon. Imagine if that snapped off chunk of aluminum flew through the air and hit someone?
At any rate they want over $1,000 to repair my boat and replace pylon, which is where the light-post attaches also.
I'm glad I found this post and all of the others also... This is exactly what I needed to read. There is nothing in the manual that states you shouldn't use the pylon for tubes, there is also no known spec for the pylon's strength. I was told that I should have used common sense and that I exceeded the strength of the pylon, yet they (BRP Corporate) cannot find a spec anywhere stating it's strength or limitations......yet it's still my fault....Nice huh??
Anybody on here get them to replace their pylon under warranty?
If you have had an issue with your Ski Pylon on a BRP product, please pm me or post in here, I'm putting a little something together for us.
At any rate they want over $1,000 to repair my boat and replace pylon, which is where the light-post attaches also.
I'm glad I found this post and all of the others also... This is exactly what I needed to read. There is nothing in the manual that states you shouldn't use the pylon for tubes, there is also no known spec for the pylon's strength. I was told that I should have used common sense and that I exceeded the strength of the pylon, yet they (BRP Corporate) cannot find a spec anywhere stating it's strength or limitations......yet it's still my fault....Nice huh??
Anybody on here get them to replace their pylon under warranty?
If you have had an issue with your Ski Pylon on a BRP product, please pm me or post in here, I'm putting a little something together for us.
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TheBlueMartin
Member
I've been looking to update my '97 with a pylon. If anyone knows how to install one of these like the '98+ models have, please let me know!
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