• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Wont run

Status
Not open for further replies.

justinb

Active Member
Hi All

I am new here and just bought my first jet ski , I have a seadoo bombardier 2002 gti .

I have taken it out a couple of times, I ran ok , until the last time I took it out.

Rode it a little Harder and played in the waves my ski generated.

Anyway it stopped and would not start, I took it home and did the following things

1. Recharged my battery incase it went flat.

2. Sprayed all the electrical switches with contact cleaner .

3. Replaced the spark plugs with new ones .

4.checked the spark plugs for spark ,which where good.

5.getting 2 beeps on my lanyard when it's fitted.

6. Starter starts and engine cranks over

7. Motor tries to start for a split second.

8. Poured a mix of fuel and oil down the carb and each cylinder

It starts up and as long as my finger is on the start button it sounds like it's running , If I let go it stops .

Is there any other checks I can do ,

Thanks guys
 
Check the compression.
Sparkplugs out and wires grounded on the orange posts. Fuel OFF and hold the throttle wide open and crank until the gauge stops climbing.
Perfect compression is 150 psi per cylinder.
 
How is fuel usually fed to the carbs......fuel pump? My DI has a fuel pump buzz when I put the key on to prime the fuel pressure so if its got a pump you can start there maybe?
Almost sounds like not enough fuel is getting to the carbs
 
On a 2002 GTI it is a vacuum operated fuel pump that is part of the body of the carb.
It is not an electric fuel pump.
 
Compression gauge.
A lot of people have had issues with the Harbor Freight ones. You can get one on loan from Autozone and O'Riley's.
 
Thank you , let's just say the compression is right ,what do I do next lol

the plugs are definitely got spark as I tool them out and cranked the motor having
It touching the top of the motor frame
 
The fuel system would be next but a compression test is a good diagnostic before tearing into things.
 
Check the compression.
Sparkplugs out and wires grounded on the orange posts. Fuel OFF and hold the throttle wide open and crank until the gauge stops climbing.
Perfect compression is 150 psi per cylinder.
Hi gauge arrived going to do the test , just a quick one obviously I take the spark plug out of the one I am testing do I Leave the other spark plug in and attached ?
 
Hi gauge arrived going to do the test , just a quick one obviously I take the spark plug out of the one I am testing do I Leave the other spark plug in and attached ?
Take both plugs out, make sure the plug boots are grounded to the orange grounding posts
 
Take both plugs out, make sure the plug boots are grounded to the orange grounding posts
Hi , it's been raining here so did not have a chance to do the test until now, good news I did the test 3 times on each cylinder all times I got the same reading 145 psi , which I hope rules out blown motor ?
 
Any Tempo lines on it? Grey fuel lines. If there is they would need to be replaced, then probably best next step IMO would be a carb rebuild with genuine Mikuni parts, also do a pop of pressure test
 
So one of the things the guy did who I bought it from was replace all fuel lines

Let me try the premix and see what it does ,can u advise the ratio of oil and fuel and how many mills do I put down the carb
 
hey guys so I put some premix fuel in , it started and ran at very low not for long

quick question I removed the 2 fuel lines of the carb to see if fuel was coming out ,can't say much came out moved the fuel level to normal and to reserve same story , I would of though fuel should be dripping out the end of lines , could the lines be blocked ?
 
You could try running new fuel line directly from the tank to the carb for testing. I’m going off of what I’ve read and not from experience here so take it for what it is, but I believe this should eliminate it being a possible fuel selector valve and/or possible leaking fuel strainer/water seperator, A couple things, have you emptied out the old fuel from the tank? You said you ran it a few times since owning it? How long did you run it? What did it do when It stopped working for you? Is the oil injection still being used? I’m wondering if the previous owner had the carburetor rebuilt or not? if not or even if he did this would be a good place to start.
 
so let me start by saying this the guy I bought it from advertised the following stuff he just did ,

1. New fuel lines
2. New starter
3. New soilnoid
4. new fuel selector

He said a major service too, I have no reason to belive none of this is true

Anyway I must add I have never owned a jet ski so this was my first time , I took it out at first I ran into issue trying to run it figured I forgot to turn the fuel line on so I kept trying to start it with fuel not getting to it , I drained the battery so the first ride was a 5 min ride .


Took it home and charged the battery , started up fine and took it out the following week end rode fine no issues

only thing I found whilst riding it at full taps , after about 30 seconds it would feel like it was dying took my hand off the accelerator and after a few seconds the power would come back did this regular, felt like it was been starved of fuel .

Anyway took it home , the following week end took it out again , again rode fine no issues starting it etc , just found it did the same thing as above Whilst riding at higher speeds

however this time only thing I did different was play in the waves I made from driving in circles so a slight splash of water on me and the haul hitting the water hard after a few times of doing this it instantly died at first I thought the impact of water on underside of haul caused it

I notice when I tried to start it I could not hear the start engaging

So though the wheel got mis aligned from impact

anyway took it home charged the battery up stated it same thing could not hear the start engaging

I took the starter off to manual test it as I thought maybe it was blown , Whilst testing it off it worked fine

put the starter back in this time I took the face plate off of the fly wheel to see if I could see it all engaging and it did , so I think buy pulling it out and putting it back in fixed the issue of the start not engaging into the fly wheel

Same story through it would not start at this point I checked and changed plugs spar was good etc

only thing I noticed the fly wheel has some surface rust on it in places , I also recall seen water in the haul not alot so not sure if that is cause from having water in the haul so from the ski moving around in water slight chance so water managed to get in where the fly wheel engages the starter?
 
so let me start by saying this the guy I bought it from advertised the following stuff he just did ,

1. New fuel lines
2. New starter
3. New soilnoid
4. new fuel selector

He said a major service too, I have no reason to belive none of this is true

Anyway I must add I have never owned a jet ski so this was my first time , I took it out at first I ran into issue trying to run it figured I forgot to turn the fuel line on so I kept trying to start it with fuel not getting to it , I drained the battery so the first ride was a 5 min ride .


Took it home and charged the battery , started up fine and took it out the following week end rode fine no issues

only thing I found whilst riding it at full taps , after about 30 seconds it would feel like it was dying took my hand off the accelerator and after a few seconds the power would come back did this regular, felt like it was been starved of fuel .

Anyway took it home , the following week end took it out again , again rode fine no issues starting it etc , just found it did the same thing as above Whilst riding at higher speeds

however this time only thing I did different was play in the waves I made from driving in circles so a slight splash of water on me and the haul hitting the water hard after a few times of doing this it instantly died at first I thought the impact of water on underside of haul caused it

I notice when I tried to start it I could not hear the start engaging

So though the wheel got mis aligned from impact

anyway took it home charged the battery up stated it same thing could not hear the start engaging

I took the starter off to manual test it as I thought maybe it was blown , Whilst testing it off it worked fine

put the starter back in this time I took the face plate off of the fly wheel to see if I could see it all engaging and it did , so I think buy pulling it out and putting it back in fixed the issue of the start not engaging into the fly wheel

Same story through it would not start at this point I checked and changed plugs spar was good etc

only thing I noticed the fly wheel has some surface rust on it in places , I also recall seen water in the haul not alot so not sure if that is cause from having water in the haul so from the ski moving around in water slight chance so water managed to get in where the fly wheel engages the starter?
The first ride only lasted 5 minutes because the battery needed charging, if the machine was running I would think you should be able to keep riding so I would get a new battery or before doing that if you can get it running do a test to check the output if the stator. I believe a Volts reading on the battery while it’s running should tell you if the stator is working, you will have to search up what volts should be, I think it’s around 14 volts but not sure, also volts should go below 11.5 while cranking. May just be a bad battery though. Battery could also be the reason starter is not engaging. Once you know you have a good battery, if started that has been bench tested still doesn’t engage I would check and clean your grounds. By the sounds of it the previous owner was having some fuel issues as well, so I would rebuild the carburetor with a genuine Mikuni rebuild kit or at least take them apart, check your pop off pressure, check that the seat is not leaking, check the needle for wear and clean the remaining components of the carburetor, also have a look for signs whether genuine Mikuni parts are in there, Mikuni diaphragm that pushes on the lever raising the needle will have a red center, if you read through Mikidymacs carb rebuild thread you will find some other differences between genuine and aftermarket. Everything I have ever read says they will not perform properly with aftermarket carb parts.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top