Won’t stay running 240efi in 2000 islandia

[Snowie joe]

Hey,
So I have looked all over this site and am not sure about what my problem might be. I attached a video. Basically when I first got it it started and idled. Took it to the lake and it would go about 10 miles an hour. Took it home replaced the spark plugs. Compression test is good. Now it will only idle for a second or two then die. I filled it up with new fuel and cleaned out the fuel vapor separator and replaced a cracked fuel hose. Then it started and ran for a min or two. It was high idling and surging. Finally it died. Does this sound like anything you might be able to point me in the right direction with?
Thanks again
Joe
Ps. It has some wires that are not hooked up. And a fuel line is not hooked up but I don’t think that one matters
Ok no video

 

[Dr Honda]

Not sounding like any issue in particular.

So... we start at the beginning.

1) What was the compression. (on all cyl's)
2) Did you check for spark on all cyl's?
3) Did you check fuel pressure?
4) When it starts... have you tried to bring up the throttle?

 

[Snowie joe]

120ish on all cylinders

Fuel pressure at the tire valve is 28 when the fuel pump pumps. Then it goes down to 25 once it starts then it dies

 

[Snowie joe]

Spark is good on all cylinders. The top spark plugs look new and the 2 under on each side are covered in oil

 

[Snowie joe]

Also. I changed the spark plugs while I was checking spark back to the original recommend ones and it started up and seemed to be running fine?

 

[Dr Honda]

120ish on all cylinders

Fuel pressure at the tire valve is 28 when the fuel pump pumps. Then it goes down to 25 once it starts then it dies

OK... think we found the problem. 120-ish is low... but it should run. Asumming it's +120 and not -120. (like 118)

But, the real issue is the fuel pressure. it should be 36. at 25, you won't be spraying enough fuel to run.

 

[Snowie joe]

Do you think I need to Hone the cylinders and get a new pump? Which pump exactly? And the compression was at idle not wot. Would that make a difference

 

[Dr Honda]

The compression could be checked with the throttle wide open, but it won't make a huge difference. Yes... a quick hone, and new rings would help bring that back up. But you won't know exactly until the engine is apart.


The fuel pump is the one in the vapor tank. BUT, the pump may be fine. There is a regulator in the system, and it could be bad. Both parts will need to be checked. There is also a filter on the bottom of the pump. You may find it's just plugged up.

 

[Snowie joe]

Hi dr Honda,
Thanks for the guidance. I checked the filter in the vst and it was clear. I’m not sure how to check the regulator but I did see some info on how to make a new one for cheap so I might try that. I thought I had it running good after putting the old spark plugs in all be it smoking a lot. I took it to the lake and it wouldn’t go past ten miles per hour. My emp guage is not working so I don’t know how high it’s getting but it sounds very low. I’ve ordered new temp sensors and fuel filter so they will be here shortly. Any more suggestions? I have spark but I haven’t tested it other than looking and once feeling and it felt strong so I think the coils are good.

 

[Snowie joe]

Also ordered a new vst fuel pump so maybe that will fix it. Do you think it’s a rev limiter though? There seem to be a lot of wires not connected behind the steering wheel as well as the kill switch. Doesn’t matter if it’s got the plug on it or not it still cranks. Also doesn’t matter if it’s in neutral or not it still revs up on the trailer just not in the water.
Thanks again!

 

[Dr Honda]

If you still have a "Throttle Guardian" in the helm... take it out. it causes WAY too many issues.

Keep me posted with the regulator and pump.

 

[Snowie joe]

So just cut the wires and remove? Or do I need to connect Waite back together

 

[Dr Honda]

You can cut it out. But should have plugs.

 

[Snowie joe]

Looks like someone already cut the black with yellow stripe wire.

 

[Snowie joe]

Here’s the update. Changed out the high pressure pump. And the fuel filter. Started up and ran it in the driveway. But I turned the key off and it kept running. Had to disconnect the spark plug wires. Weird. Also have a throttle cable that’s not hooked up to anything. Any idea where it goes ? And a couple wires that are not hooked up to anything. Oh and it seems like a lot of oil is coming out of the exhaust in the picture which can’t be good. I’ll take it to the lake and let everyone know what the verdict is. I do need to get it to turn off though.

 

[Dr Honda]

the little cable is a throttle adder. It's hooked to the steering, so it bumps the throttle at full turn. It's supposed to help at idle speeds... but I think it's a pain in the butt. Mine is disconnected.


The black/yellow kills the engine. You obviously have disconnected it from the key switch. You need to make sure to trace that down before going to the lake.

The black 2 pin connector is a data connector. It's for diagnostic.

Oil out the exhaust is normal if you haven't run it hard enough to clear it out.

 

[Snowie joe]

Thanks for the invite dr Honda. I’m not sure about the black and yellow striped wire. I haven’t disconnected anything. The wire goes from the key to a box on the back of the engine and then to the coils I think. There was a wire that branches off from the key to a box in the dash but it was already disconnected. I’m gonna keep trouble shooting but if you have any ideas I’d love to hear them. Thanks. Take care

 

[Snowie joe]

Ok. So here’s where I’m at.took it to the lake and it wouldn’t start. Took it home and the starter gear is worn out. Bought a new starter gear and it looks like the flywheel is worn out to. Ive about had it with this engine. I don’t event know if everything I’ve done has fixed it or not because it’s just one thing after another. I will never buy anything like this online again. I’ve said it before but this time I mean it.

 

[Snowie joe]

Does anyone have a flywheel I. Good condition that I can buy and see if this dang motor will run?

 

[Dr Honda]

Almost looks like the gear is one tooth too small. Sure you ordered the right one?

 

[Snowie joe]

It’s 8 tooth. That’s what the one on it had. I didn’t have the parts catalog

 

[Dr Honda]

Yep... think mine is an 8 tooth also. But I know mine fits into the flywheel a little deeper.

 

[Snowie joe]

Ok. Got the it running again. Still seems that it’s not firing on all cylinders. I tried testing the coils with a meter and it’s not picking up any continuity at all!? Don’t know what I’m doing wrong. Even if I check every combination of pins there should be continuity somewhere right. What am I doing wrong dr Honda? The manual in the forum is for a newer model 240 efi. I have gen 1 and each coil only has 4 pins. FYI. To get the engine to stop I had to remove 3 spark plug wires before it would die.

 

[Dr Honda]

I thought both manuals were up there.... let me look. But the best way to test for spark is to get a few in-line testers, and just look while it's running.

If you needed it to stop... and you are in the engine compartment... just ground the black/yellow wire.


****EDIT****

OK.... looks like the descriptions got changed the last time they got organized. If you look into there now... I tweaked the descriptions and listed the proper manual as a "Gen1"

 

[Snowie joe]

Dr Honda.
How hard should the flywheel be to turn? I can turn it a little then it’s impossible. I think this is why the starter gear is wearing and the flywheel teeth are wearing down too. Also. When I put water to the engine via hose or in the water, it seems that there is a lot more resistance/ pressure to start. Any ideas? Am I hydro locking somehow?