winterizing 96 gtx

[bond67]

I am a little confused on where to put the antifreeze. I had found this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkH4saY0P0o

for an 01 i figure it would be the same procedure, but is this correct? I still not sure which hose needs to be clamped.

Also what else can I use for fogging oil? I have some of that Gunk Silicon Spray that I use on the engine and everything else after each time i ride at the lake. would that be ok to use as a fog spray? Also what what kind of oil can i spray in the cylinders, just the normal seadoo oil?

 

[seadoosnipe]

Geographical location...?

A lot of what you need to do with winterizing depends on your geographical location. Since I have no idea where Mizery (I think that's how you spelled it), I can't tell from what part of the country your from.

You don't have to buy anything seadoo for doing this........but I need to know where your location is.

I've got to go to work now, ....so it'll be later in the day before I can come back to this .......

Had you had the state listed, I could have answered this now, before leaving. I'll check in on this thread later...........

 

[bond67]

oh sorry, I live in Missouri, get pretty cold here. I didn't know that there was a certain way you winterize in different geographical areas. We occassionally get severe ice storms

 

[kustomkarl]

The difference is either you do winterize or you don't...I live in Florida...I don't winterize. I did live in Upstate N.Y. till 1996...I did winterize. The key is if it gets below 32*f you winterize. Freezing water is freezing water even at -20*f below zero...it is still freezing. If you do a 1/2 winterize...you will be doing a full rebuild if you crack the cases from freezing temps. It takes less than 30 minutes to winterize your seadoo correctly...why do short cuts, just do it right the first time.

This information is for the 2 stroke 1996-1997 engine Pwc or Jet boat.

You need to add about 1 qt.of anti freeze mixed 50 /50 to the cooling line going into the head from the rear of the seadoo. There should be an arrow on the head pointing the direction of water flow. It is the one closest to the exhaust. The other hose is the return or exit hose. Remove that one too...it is on carb side. Both of these hoses are on the rear of the engine. If your engine has a clear engine drain line you need to pinch that one off so the anti-freeze just doesn't run out. It is usually clear and under the exhaust manifold. That is the one to pinch if it has this line. Attach a hose and use a funnel to add the anti freeze to the hose nipple closest to the exhaust at the rear. Re attach the 2 hoses. On the front head cooling line is the hose going to the exhaust. Add about 3 oz. of anti-freeze to the exhaust line also. Re attach the hoses and remove the pincher from the engine drain line under the exhaust manifold if yours has it. Spray your engine and components with wd-40 and silicone spray...store the battery in a warm dry place and you done.

Karl

 

[lovetoride]

do you need to be precise

I was going to do mine tomorrow, but i am worried about how much to put in.
I was thinking that if i put to much it might go into the cylinders and not enough it will freeze. I live in CT. can i just pore it in until it comes out the other line or just pore in one quart. I know you just explained it but i am still a little unclear.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Coolant...?

I was going to do mine tomorrow, but i am worried about how much to put in.
I was thinking that if i put to much it might go into the cylinders and not enough it will freeze. I live in CT. can i just pore it in until it comes out the other line or just pore in one quart. I know you just explained it but i am still a little unclear.

That year, the SPX was available with either the 717 or 787, depending on model. I'll assume you have the standard model with the 717 engine in it.

On your engine, you will probably have to remove the back flush line from the head or preferrably behind it so you can use that small section of hose. The backflush line is on the right hand side of the head. Once you have that hose disconnected or a short piece of 1/2" hose connected with a funnel, you'll be ready. You'll need to pinch the coolant inlet line from your pump. Thats the water line on the left side of the head. Then, with a gallon of 50/50 mix, you can buy at any auto parts store like Advance or Autozone, elevate the line and funnel above the engine and start pouring it in. When you see the coolant seep out from the "tell tale" line, that means your entire engine is flooded with coolant. Stop pouring and release the hose pincher from the cooling water inlet. All the coolant will run out of the motor. So, if it's not enviro friendly, you might want to put a catch basin under the pump. Your water jacket is now protected from freeze.

When you do this, you'll probably see a little fluid leak from the exhaust pipe. That's because the TLCS has a drain line on the bottom of your heads at your exhaust manifold. If you see it, you can pinch it. But, the coolant will leak out of this fitting fairly slow, so you should be able to top off the coolant before it leaks past that fitting......:cheers:

 

[seadoosnipe]

Geographical locations.....?

oh sorry, I live in Missouri, get pretty cold here. I didn't know that there was a certain way you winterize in different geographical areas. We occassionally get severe ice storms

BRP puts together the winterize requirements in shop manuals that will take care of ALL geographical locations. But, in reality, there are several areas that don't freeze in the winter time (like Karl stated) and there are some that freeze over solid. So, the procedure is set up to cover everyone.

Here where I live in Alabama, we might spray our linkages down, fog the engine and that's it. But, I have a friend in N.Y. who does all the standard procedures, then uses the 75 watt light bulb hanging from a garage shop light (it has a metal cage) to help keep the block warm.

So, when I mention geographical locations, it's to determine the severity of the temperature swing. Whether you live in an area of light freeze or hard freeze.

Your about middle of the road, so I'd do all recommended procedures as outlined in the shop manual. One thing not mentioned in the manual is "water holding in your bilge". I usually recommend that everyone use a shop vac and remove all standing water. This will help control the humidity that builds the little water droplets across the top of the motor and keep if from settling on your linkage and springs.....:cheers: