Where is the "starter relay"??

[byebye]

I've been having electrical problems & my manual says "If battery is regularly discharged, check this fuse condition. Fuses for the charging system are located at the starter relay in the engine compartment".

I've located SOME fuses in the engine compartment & verified they are not blown - in the attached picture I've circled where I've checked the fuses.

Can anyone tell me where the "starter relay is"?

Thanks!!

Problems are dead/near dead battery, voltage light is coming on, engine cutting out & one long beep while driving (not at start), engine stalls when throttled back. I have a second battery as backup - basically I "recharge" my starting battery by hooking them up in parallel for a few minutes & then disconnect the 2nd battery to get the boat to turn over. Curiously, the boat does *not* turn over when both batteries are connected, which seems odd to me.

 

[byebye]

Here is a 2nd pic showing the whole engine compartment, in case that is helpful for anyone to direct me to the right spot:cheers:

 

[BMANN06]

The starter relay is the brown thing fastened to the back. Right between where your two red cirlces are.

 

[byebye]

Thank you!

I checked the starter relay & there don't appear to be any fuses IN it, the only near-by fuses I could find were the ones I'd already circled in the picture & those were all fine.

I did find another fuse box in the dashboard - i replaced the 5A fuse for the blower since it was blown - which was odd because the blower/fan was still working fine. It seems unlikely this would be the cause of my electrical problems though.

I was impressed to see that there were replacement fuses right IN the fuse cap.

I did recently install a stereo but it was a pretty straight-forward swap of wires from the old head unit to the new one. I don't believe in coincidences, but, I can't see how this would be causing my problems which are (again);

- dead/near dead battery
- voltage light is coming on
- engine cutting out
- one long beep while driving (not at start).
- engine stalls when throttled back

I have a second battery as backup - basically I "recharge" my starting battery by hooking them up in parallel for a few minutes & then disconnect the 2nd battery to get the boat to turn over. Curiously, the boat does *not* turn over when both batteries are connected, which seems odd to me.

So basically I can't seem to figure out this problem. I was hoping to have an idea what was wrong before I took it in to be serviced (thinking of Snow City Cycle as they are close to me).

Any ideas?

 

[BMANN06]

Start with this:

Get the boat running if on trailer, run it on hose. Connect Host to pump (DO NOT TURN ON WATER), get engine started and running. Then TURN ON WATER. Get a voltmeter and put it in DC mode put the probes across the battery and read voltage. Post that reading. Then TURN OFF WATER, then TURN OFF ENGINE.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

But DON'T run it on the hose for more than a minute or 2 at the most.

 

[byebye]

Start with this:

Get the boat running if on trailer, run it on hose. Connect Host to pump (DO NOT TURN ON WATER), get engine started and running. Then TURN ON WATER. Get a voltmeter and put it in DC mode put the probes across the battery and read voltage. Post that reading. Then TURN OFF WATER, then TURN OFF ENGINE.

This was done exactly as you suggested :thumbsup: reading started at 14.2 & climbed to 14.3 over about 20 seconds.

Before I started the engine it was 12.6. I did have to boost the battery to get the engine started, even though it's a new battery since I replaced the older one (perhaps unnecessarily) when I started having these problems.

EDIT: I noticed the battery cables were loose. Wondering if this could have caused my problems (might as well list 'em again);
- dead/near dead battery
- voltage light is coming on (for a second then out again)
- engine cutting out
- one long beep while driving (not at start).
- engine stalls when throttled back

 

[byebye]

Bumping in hopes of a response.

 

[BMANN06]

If u have loose battery cables that sounds like the problem. Have u tightened them up and still have the same symptoms?

 

[byebye]

If u have loose battery cables that sounds like the problem. Have u tightened them up and still have the same symptoms?

I've did tighten them up, but I'm back on the road now so no boat rides. Hopefully this weekend - I'll post results.

 

[pudder]

To me it seems you may have a bad battery.. have you tried using only your back up? Also does it stay running if you disconnect the battery or does it quit.

Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk 2

 

[Macster]

Try reading the 6th and 7th posts in particular. Cheers.


http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?48178-2008-Speedster-150-won-t-start-probably-electrical

 

[byebye]

OK, first thanks very much for all the assistance.:thumbsup:

I have this figured out, it was a combination of two different issues;

1. My new subwoofer was drawing current even when the stereo was turned off. Since the subwoofer is wired directly to the battery at this time, it was killing it even when the master switch was turned off.

2. The cables were loose - this was causing all the other problems like the engine cutting out.

Still want to figure out WHY the sub is drawing current even when stereo is off - the power/ant wire IS correctly hooked up so that there is no voltage on that wire when the stereo is off - but for now I have a plug on the sub I can just pull when the boat's not in use so no rush.

 

[Macster]

OK, first thanks very much for all the assistance.:thumbsup:

I have this figured out, it was a combination of two different issues;

1. My new subwoofer was drawing current even when the stereo was turned off. Since the subwoofer is wired directly to the battery at this time, it was killing it even when the master switch was turned off.

2. The cables were loose - this was causing all the other problems like the engine cutting out.

Still want to figure out WHY the sub is drawing current even when stereo is off - the power/ant wire IS correctly hooked up so that there is no voltage on that wire when the stereo is off - but for now I have a plug on the sub I can just pull when the boat's not in use so no rush.

I'd guess you haven't hooked up the amp / sub remote wire properly i.e. maybe you have the power and remote mixed up at the sub / amp end.

 

[renomaan]

I had my right starter become random as to if it would work or not-I went to the selonoid block and jumpered the big post with a pair of needle nose and the starter turned! so that took the selenoid out of the mix-I pulled the fuses hanging off the selenoid block and they bothe were corroded on the blades and contactors-cleaned greased and replaced -works great!

you can also on dual engine boats flip up the driver cover remove the cooler and swap connectors on the starter buttons to see if the other button will turn the starter-that will tell you if its a bad push button-then switch them back

 

[RFoster130]

OK, first thanks very much for all the assistance.:thumbsup:

I have this figured out, it was a combination of two different issues;

1. My new subwoofer was drawing current even when the stereo was turned off. Since the subwoofer is wired directly to the battery at this time, it was killing it even when the master switch was turned off.

2. The cables were loose - this was causing all the other problems like the engine cutting out.

Still want to figure out WHY the sub is drawing current even when stereo is off - the power/ant wire IS correctly hooked up so that there is no voltage on that wire when the stereo is off - but for now I have a plug on the sub I can just pull when the boat's not in use so no rush.

Thats a simple fix and you already answered how to do it yourself really........You have a battery switch. Move your amp power wire to the switched side of the switch...not the actual battery. That is the correct way to wire it.