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What is this mystery part?
- Thread starter Arkansan
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also, it may be easier to remove both clamps off the other boot, and gives you more space to work with, i usually replace both boots when i do it, i figure i dont want to do the job again, -- lol, if you want to replace other boot also, remove both clamps and just cut other boot off, and then you have room, sometimes you can take a block of wood and push where your thumb is in the picture, but, you will need to slide pump back on ...
Griz, thank you. We have the pump back on, but the stainless ring simply will not move back without pulling the driveshaft with it. AND while feeling around for a tire spoon that I dropped while trying to use one of Dr. Honda's suggestions (from another thread), I found the C-clip in the bottom of the engine compartment. As I said, we couldn't see a ring or clip in the first groove comparable to the one on the other driveshaft. This clip did NOT fall out today. SO, there is no c-clip to remove. (I really figured that there would be a c-clip rather than the original ring because this engine was just installed last summer.) Since there isn't a c-clip in place, shouldn't the driveshaft just slide right out? Because it doesn't. Believe me on this: It doesn't. Should we wiggle it around to try to loosen whatever is holding it to the stainless ring, or would that cause more problems? We can pull it pretty far back -- you can see a half-inch or more of the PTO-end splines. (Then when we push it back in, it clangs against the PTO, which makes me wonder if whoever installed this driveshaft put a rubber bumper on that end.)
We also found the remnants of zip-ties down by the drain, so that explains why we didn't find any Oetiker clamps after the PTO boot tore up. Sheesh, what a mess.
We also found the remnants of zip-ties down by the drain, so that explains why we didn't find any Oetiker clamps after the PTO boot tore up. Sheesh, what a mess.
here is what you are looking for when we say c clip http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=123_189_195&products_id=4
The stainless ring IS bigger than the shaft. If you can't pull it towards the PTO, something is blocking it.
Run your finger around the driveshaft groove to make sure nothing is in there. The only other element are the 2 o-rings inside the stainless ring (make sure these are in place when you put everything together). But they shouldn't impeded the shaft sliding out through the back of the boat.
It may help to remove anything holding the PTO side (smaller) rubber boot that covers the grease nipple to the shaft. But mine pulled out even with the oetiker clamp on there (it just wouldn't go back in).
Run your finger around the driveshaft groove to make sure nothing is in there. The only other element are the 2 o-rings inside the stainless ring (make sure these are in place when you put everything together). But they shouldn't impeded the shaft sliding out through the back of the boat.
It may help to remove anything holding the PTO side (smaller) rubber boot that covers the grease nipple to the shaft. But mine pulled out even with the oetiker clamp on there (it just wouldn't go back in).
And here's what I found in the bottom of the boat. 
It did NOT fall out today when we were pushing the stainless ring back, and nothing like that is in the first (front) groove under the stainless ring. Believe me, Griz, this thing is not behaving as it should. I know how this should have worked: With effort, the stainless ring should move backward, collapsing the accordion boot, to reveal a c-clip (or original ring) which should then be removed. After that, take off the pump and just pull out the shaft. That's how it should work. But even with much effort using block of wood, hammer, tire spoons, pry bars, everything anyone has suggested on any thread, the stainless ring does not move backward more than the first groove (and only barely that far) because it is pulling the shaft with it. There is no c-clip in the first groove, and it still doesn't move back and forth. (The shaft will TURN independently of the stainless ring, but the stainless ring will not move backward independently of the shaft.) We've taken the pump off and put it back on repeatedly to try to just pull the shaft out, but that didn't work and the pump is currently back on. But maybe, since we now know that the c-clip isn't the problem, we should take the pump off again and manhandle the shaft to see if we can break whatever is holding it to the stainless ring.
It did NOT fall out today when we were pushing the stainless ring back, and nothing like that is in the first (front) groove under the stainless ring. Believe me, Griz, this thing is not behaving as it should. I know how this should have worked: With effort, the stainless ring should move backward, collapsing the accordion boot, to reveal a c-clip (or original ring) which should then be removed. After that, take off the pump and just pull out the shaft. That's how it should work. But even with much effort using block of wood, hammer, tire spoons, pry bars, everything anyone has suggested on any thread, the stainless ring does not move backward more than the first groove (and only barely that far) because it is pulling the shaft with it. There is no c-clip in the first groove, and it still doesn't move back and forth. (The shaft will TURN independently of the stainless ring, but the stainless ring will not move backward independently of the shaft.) We've taken the pump off and put it back on repeatedly to try to just pull the shaft out, but that didn't work and the pump is currently back on. But maybe, since we now know that the c-clip isn't the problem, we should take the pump off again and manhandle the shaft to see if we can break whatever is holding it to the stainless ring.Thank you, MLebauer. There is nothing holding the pto side. That's what started this adventure -- the rubber boot on that end tore off, something we discovered by chance when the boat was running like the wind. We found no oetiker clamps (as are on the other PTO boot), but this engine was installed last summer, and we found the remnants of zip ties. At any rate, there's nothing on the PTO end but the shaft entering the PTO, and it moves in and out readily -- as much as the stainless ring will let it, anyway. I hadn't thought of trying to pull the stainless ring forward, toward the PTO. There is nothing in the front groove (closest to the PTO), so I'll run out and give that a try. (My husband has just about given up. This morning, he took two non-working lawnmowers and made one working lawnmower, so he's not clueless. This driveshaft just isn't playing by the rules!)
That's the C-clip for sure that should hold the stainless ring in place. The "manhandle" idea could work. One of you (your husband, if it's to be "manhandled" & not "womanhandled" 
) grab the pump end from the back. The other hold the stainless ring. Push the shaft in & out, and listen and watch to see what's causing the ring to catch on the shaft. Once you get an idea where it's catching you could twist the shaft to see if you can find the obstruction. It could be something stuck in the stainless ring, but it'd have to be on the PTO side of it.
This is a frustrating procedure, I just went through it twice. 2nd time because I stupidly :banghead: forgot to put the o-rings in the new stainless ring before putting it all together. But my C-clips were there when I started and shaft slid right out once I got it out (that took some strain and elbow grease), so I didn't have your problem.
) grab the pump end from the back. The other hold the stainless ring. Push the shaft in & out, and listen and watch to see what's causing the ring to catch on the shaft. Once you get an idea where it's catching you could twist the shaft to see if you can find the obstruction. It could be something stuck in the stainless ring, but it'd have to be on the PTO side of it.This is a frustrating procedure, I just went through it twice. 2nd time because I stupidly :banghead: forgot to put the o-rings in the new stainless ring before putting it all together. But my C-clips were there when I started and shaft slid right out once I got it out (that took some strain and elbow grease), so I didn't have your problem.
OK, MLebauer and all, the stainless ring does not move forward (toward the PTO) either. Not a smidge. And there's nothing in the front groove, although earlier we did find a little curly piece of black fiber that I assume might have come from one of the o-rings inside the stainless ring. After all this effort, I really hate to pay a mechanic to do what we should be able to do. On the other hand, the mechanic is the one who installed this engine last year, and I assume had to install this driveshaft when he did it.
on yours, being stubborn like this, at this point, take off both clamps, cut off the other boot, and here is a picture of your driveshaft for a 1998 sportster 1800 http://www.shopsbt.com/sea-1998-dspr1800/74-101D-08.html
it shows 3 grooves, problem is you are not getting stainless sleeve back far enough ... i know you dont wanna here that, but, it is a stubborn thing to do sometimes, i have had to lay a block of wood at the pto, and then use a prybar on the sleeve, IT WILL GO BACK,
it shows 3 grooves, problem is you are not getting stainless sleeve back far enough ... i know you dont wanna here that, but, it is a stubborn thing to do sometimes, i have had to lay a block of wood at the pto, and then use a prybar on the sleeve, IT WILL GO BACK,
You are right, Griz: I don't want to have to tear up another piece that looks perfectly fine. Especially when we have done the block of wood and prybar routine to no avail. There's a Seadoo dealer a couple of miles from our house, but that's 80 miles from where we keep the boat, so we can't just run out for parts, and we can only work on this thing on weekends. Our plan was to get the driveshaft out, install the new PTO boot, put everything back together and get on the water this afternoon or tomorrow at the latest. But since we spent hours and hours on this today and haven't even come close to getting the shaft out, I guess we need to give up on the idea that all it needs is a PTO boot, oetiker clamps and grease. 
Guest_User
New Member
Ark, you need a ton of patience, stamina, flexibility and deep pockets to repair these boats. otherwise make friends with a dealer regardless of how far they are...
When you`ve given your best effort to no avail, then it`s time to have someone else just do the job, and then enjoy the rest of the season...
It kills me to see people struggle with their boats. Good luck and hope you get to spend more time on the water.
When you`ve given your best effort to no avail, then it`s time to have someone else just do the job, and then enjoy the rest of the season...
It kills me to see people struggle with their boats. Good luck and hope you get to spend more time on the water.
When I had this set-up, I cut a big notch on a piece of 2x4 so that it would fit over the SS ring, and then used other long pipes/wood pieces to push on it, by using the bottom of the boat as leverage, along with other cleverly arranged pieces, to make the job easier.
Removing this ring to me was always a PAIN in the rear... I would suggest spraying lots of lubricants in the area where the shaft meets the SS ring. there should be 2 rubber orings inside the SS ring... so it should not be this tight. a few whacks as you have applied also helped me when it got weird.
The reason my rubber boots would blow was over-lubrication, I was using too much grease, which makes them pop. When things to not work, try a different approach. Take a rest and look at it from a different light. Sometimes, things are not as they seem.
Good Luck!!!
Removing this ring to me was always a PAIN in the rear... I would suggest spraying lots of lubricants in the area where the shaft meets the SS ring. there should be 2 rubber orings inside the SS ring... so it should not be this tight. a few whacks as you have applied also helped me when it got weird.
The reason my rubber boots would blow was over-lubrication, I was using too much grease, which makes them pop. When things to not work, try a different approach. Take a rest and look at it from a different light. Sometimes, things are not as they seem.
Good Luck!!!
ok, this is going to be hard to explain i guess, but it will probably work, take an adjustable wrench, (your biggest cresent wrench) and im using the picture you posted in post 25, put wrench where your thumb is in that picture, and have it straight up and snug on that sleeve (right were your thumb is), then measure from there to the flat part on your pto and cut a piece of 2x4 to fit, lay it on the driveshaft between the wrench and pto, and then pull the handle of wrench hard as you can towards the front of boat, may have to put a pipe on it, this in turn will work like a lever -- cave men sat and thought about crap like this ....
Upallnight
Member
With what it will probably cost you to let a Seadoo shop align the engine and pump, you can buy the tool and have it for the next time or if you get rid of the boat you can always sell the tool on eBay.
Thank you Griz, IAlonso, Pale Rider and MLeBauer, and HALLELUJAH! We went back out, took the pump off and used a combination of MLeBauer's advice and Griz's advice: hubby manhandled it from the impeller end while I used a piece of wood and a prybar on the PTO end, and occasionally turned the shaft independently of the stainless ring. Finally, finally, finally THE SUCKER CAME OUT. And when it did, my husband fell on his butt. 
As I suspected from the clanging earlier, there was no bumper in the PTO end. The o-rings inside the stainless ring are intact. The c-clip that I found in the bottom of the engine compartment snaps smoothly into the front groove as designed. (And we didn't have to tear up the accordion boot after all, but Griz, I was prepared to do that in the morning!)
Here's our plan (for tomorrow morning -- it's getting dark now): We will put the single bumper in the PTO end of the shaft since it will be so much easier to pop a new one in the impeller end. Then we'll put everything back together with plenty of synthetic grease.
So now here's my last question of the evening: When we get it put back together, would it be crazy to give it a test in the water without the bumper on the impeller end of the driveshaft? Clearly it's been running without the bumper at the other end... Whatcha think?
As I suspected from the clanging earlier, there was no bumper in the PTO end. The o-rings inside the stainless ring are intact. The c-clip that I found in the bottom of the engine compartment snaps smoothly into the front groove as designed. (And we didn't have to tear up the accordion boot after all, but Griz, I was prepared to do that in the morning!) Here's our plan (for tomorrow morning -- it's getting dark now): We will put the single bumper in the PTO end of the shaft since it will be so much easier to pop a new one in the impeller end. Then we'll put everything back together with plenty of synthetic grease.
So now here's my last question of the evening: When we get it put back together, would it be crazy to give it a test in the water without the bumper on the impeller end of the driveshaft? Clearly it's been running without the bumper at the other end... Whatcha think?
I'm a risk taker.... you have worked so hard... If the bumper is the only piece you are missing to out tomorrow, I would go out without it, no questions... Some folks complain the bumpers are not very strong, and cut a piece of rubber from an old tire to size, and use that instead... Good Luck with whatever you choose. (I had to come back to see if you got it off today!)
never leave the rubber bumper off the pto side, cause it will let shaft go into pto and wont seal and you will take on water-- take something and stick in pto, and make sure bumper is not way up in the pto, put the new bumper on pto side, (i thought you guys bought 2 bumpers like someone said in this thread ), also, you could find something rubber (temporarily of course for impeller side, the same thickness as rubber bumper) and try it out perhaps ... but the correct answer is no ... if you guys do this, make damn sure your bilge pump is working ...
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