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Water test

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Malkel123

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Hi again...after all the help from this forum great people over here...we got the boat running...we went today for a little test and this is what is doing....it would hit 4000 rpms WOT around 17 mph and thats it...any causes...i would tried to post the video i took.
 
Hi again...after all the help from this forum great people over here...we got the boat running...we went today for a little test and this is what is doing....it would hit 4000 rpms WOT around 17 mph and thats it...any causes...i would tried to post the video i took.

Are you firing on all 6? Are you getting fuel delivered on all 6? While you are on the water, after making a test run, feel each spark plug after you shut off the engine, (unless you like getting shocked by about 40,000 volts). Hot plugs are firing; cold ones are not. Make note of which are cold. One bad coil can cause 2 dead cylinders. Have you checked fuel pressure? Has compression been checked lately?
 
Are you firing on all 6? Are you getting fuel delivered on all 6? While you are on the water, after making a test run, feel each spark plug after you shut off the engine, (unless you like getting shocked by about 40,000 volts). Hot plugs are firing; cold ones are not. Make note of which are cold. One bad coil can cause 2 dead cylinders. Have you checked fuel pressure? Has compression been checked lately?
Didn't check spark plugs...l may do it again tomorrow...but outside the water with no load , on the trailer and hose...the boat would go above 6800 rpms if i do the no no...put it in forward and throttle...and everytime can go above 6800 rpms...any ideas...l would check regardless tomorrow again on water.
 
Didn't check spark plugs...l may do it again tomorrow...but outside the water with no load , on the trailer and hose...the boat would go above 6800 rpms if i do the no no...put it in forward and throttle...and everytime can go above 6800 rpms...any ideas...l would check regardless tomorrow again on water.
Oh fuel pressure was ok 36 psi that i remember.
 
Revving like that with no load means nothing. It could fire on 1 cylinder and reach that rpm.
Check your trigger, too.
Ok so put it on the water...run it...shut it down and check the spark plugs too see which one are hot or cold...cold it may be the coil(cdn) not sending spark to that cylinder.
 
Another question...lm still a bit confused with this engines...so if compression is not good would the engine still turns on?
 
Ok check compression 120 psi all 6 at WOT...
 

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Ok check compression 120 psi all 6 at WOT...

If you checked compression at WOT, then your numbers are low. It should be 135-140psi. Low numbers will result in low performance and increased fuel consumption. Yes, the engine will still run.
 
Hi...sorry to bother so much...i have another question.. l just found an air leak coming from the intake manifold gasket(already order a new one)...would this has anything to do with rpms and idle?
 
Hi...sorry to bother so much...i have another question.. l just found an air leak coming from the intake manifold gasket(already order a new one)...would this has anything to do with rpms and idle?

Vacuum/air leaks in the intake stream can cause erratic idle rpm and lean WOT conditions. Lean conditions can be destructive to a 2-stroke engine. Also check your air bleed hoses for cracks and splits; especially at the ends. Those are the small black hoses that run around the engine on the intake side.

If you are replacing the gasket behind the throttle body, this would be a good time to have the injectors serviced.

Did you find any cold spark plugs on your test run?
 
Vacuum/air leaks in the intake stream can cause erratic idle rpm and lean WOT conditions. Lean conditions can be destructive to a 2-stroke engine. Also check your air bleed hoses for cracks and splits; especially at the ends. Those are the small black hoses that run around the engine on the intake side.

If you are replacing the gasket behind the throttle body, this would be a good time to have the injectors serviced.

Did you find any cold spark plugs on your test run?
Hey Tim75...the leak is coming from the seal of the cover of the intake...the piece that the efi computer sits...l didnt want to run the boat until i received the new seal and replaced so no, l havent check for cold or hot plugs...once i get the seal i be running another test...i think im coming close to have this thing running good...or thats what i hope for
 
Number 17 is the seal that's leaking
 

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I thought you were referring to the gaskets behind the throttle body. You will still have most of the bolts out that hold the throttle body and injectors.
Well i order that one also just in case...so yes i would follow your advice and send the injectors to be service...but yes the one with the leak is the seal in the front.
 
Well i order that one also just in case...so yes i would follow your advice and send the injectors to be service...but yes the one with the leak is the seal in the front.
Got the injectors service($80) got the new gasket on...just waiting on the seal today to put everything back together...thanks Tim for the injectors tip...2 of them were completely clogs...now they all spraying perfect.
 
Got the injectors service($80) got the new gasket on...just waiting on the seal today to put everything back together...thanks Tim for the injectors tip...2 of them were completely clogs...now they all spraying perfect.
I hope you were very careful installing the fuel rail. The o-rings on top of the injectors are easy to damage. You can check with soapy water and compressed air.
I would hate to have to do all that work again..................
 
Hey Tim...are you talking about the actual o rings for the injectors or the ones by the side conectors to take the fuel rail out...now the boat seen to be over flooded...cold start good but i put it forward(l know it should not be done) try to give it throttle and it died...once its warn it would not start...i already change the temp sensor...i also check just in case the psi at VST and i got 36 psi once the electric pump stop...it drops to 30 psi...and if i take the key off, it drops slowly i.would said 45 sec to 1 minute...but the boat wont start...and the spark plugs seem wet and with smell like gas...now im running out of ideas.
 
Hey Tim...are you talking about the actual o rings for the injectors or the ones by the side conectors to take the fuel rail out...now the boat seen to be over flooded...cold start good but i put it forward(l know it should not be done) try to give it throttle and it died...once its warn it would not start...i already change the temp sensor...i also check just in case the psi at VST and i got 36 psi once the electric pump stop...it drops to 30 psi...and if i take the key off, it drops slowly i.would said 45 sec to 1 minute...but the boat wont start...and the spark plugs seem wet and with smell like gas...now im running out of ideas.

The o-rings I refer to are the one on top of each injector (where the fuel flows in). But in fact, all the o-rings are easy to damage.

No carb's on this engine. Fuel injected.

Have you checked the function of the emergency kill switch? If it fails, it will allow the engine to crank, but not start.
 
Tim you mention the kill switch...i doubt that it work...reason why is cause i was starting the boat without it...but again i can tried it.
 
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