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Water In Cylinders

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I pulled the motor and soaked it with Liquid Wrech silicone spray. I let is sit for a few days, drained the counterbalance shaft, let it sit for a few days, everyday I would soak the motor with spray. I put the motor back in and did the procedure right this time. It did fire and it is running fine, for how long I do not know. Is it worth running it ? I only ran it for a minute or so a few times on the hose, letting it cool down in between each start.
 
I just had the same thing happen to my 99 GTS. Actually I didn't remove the drain plugs and the engine compartment filled up with rainwater...up the the level of the rear vent under the rear of the seat. Mine has possibly been underwater for 2 wks. I pulled plugs and drained water from cylinders (as much as cranking would push out. I started it but it wouldn't idle up (also was slow to crank). I was at a remote lake location (where it is stored) and didn't have replacement plugs. I hope the low rpm (engine never would spool up) was due to fouled plugs.
 
Don't know if anyone's ever tried this or if it's even possible, but removing airbox and flame arrestor, pushing open carb butterflies gives straight view down to crankcase. Would be easy to use fluid evacuator or similar to suck most water/oil in case of flooding and being as easy as possible for starter motor.
 
Don't know if anyone's ever tried this or if it's even possible, but removing airbox and flame arrestor, pushing open carb butterflies gives straight view down to crankcase. Would be easy to use fluid evacuator or similar to suck most water/oil in case of flooding and being as easy as possible for starter motor.

you still wouldn't get it all out, and the rotary valve would block the way. what i did when mine got tipped over the wrong way and then my friends moron BF burned up the starter was spray as much wd40 as i could down the carbs and plug holes and turn the motor over by hand. i managed to pick up a rebuilt starter from 99spxxx on the drive home and installed it, cranked the rest of the water i could get out of the motor and got it running at 10pm at night in the garage. so it was about 36 hours between flooding and first re-fire. I fired it up every evening for a few seconds to get the motor hot and a couple days later i was able to get to the lake and ride it hard for an hour or so.
 
Don't know if anyone's ever tried this or if it's even possible, but removing airbox and flame arrestor, pushing open carb butterflies gives straight view down to crankcase. Would be easy to use fluid evacuator or similar to suck most water/oil in case of flooding and being as easy as possible for starter motor.

Yes it's totally possible. I did it last season to diagnose a water flooded engine. I used my Mity Vac hand pump and sucked oil and water out of the crank case through a 3/8 od piece of tubing to show the guy before I did any more diagnosis. The best thing would be is to take the tubing and take it to a shop vac adapter and use the shop vac to suck it out.

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you still wouldn't get it all out, and the rotary valve would block the way. what i did when mine got tipped over the wrong way and then my friends moron BF burned up the starter was spray as much wd40 as i could down the carbs and plug holes and turn the motor over by hand. i managed to pick up a rebuilt starter from 99spxxx on the drive home and installed it, cranked the rest of the water i could get out of the motor and got it running at 10pm at night in the garage. so it was about 36 hours between flooding and first re-fire. I fired it up every evening for a few seconds to get the motor hot and a couple days later i was able to get to the lake and ride it hard for an hour or so.
You obviously can crank the engine a bit with starter or turn it by hand to get the rotary valve for open position... This helps to get most fluids out, rest is done with starter.
 
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