Unknown electrical issue!? I’m going insane. Clicking noise when trying to start. Key sometimes worrks

[Lau]

Hello, this is my first post. I bought a 1997 gtx for 350. Guy told me it only had electrical issues and said something about a current module? Anyways to describe the issue. I’ve got everything hooked up. Buzzer is dead so no beeps to go of off however at times when the key doesn’t not word I hear a click . And rarely the key will work for about 10 minutes then stop and it is very rare that it works. Whenever it does work the engine cranks just does not fully start but my main concern is the start button only making a clicking sound and why the key is not being. Detected

 

[Grim]

Things I would do:
First download the maintenance manual for your ski, its free online, get the parts manual too, it will help.
***If you can get it to crank over, you need to do a compression test to verify it is still a good strong engine. I wouldn't do anything else until you know that info.
1. Replace the buzzard, it can give you an idea what is wrong by the number of beeps.
2. Use manual to test your start button, replace if bad.
3. Clean your key and if it is intermittent with the post on the ski, test you post, verify it is not defective.
4. Have battery load tested to verify it is good.

If the ski has been sitting for any good amount of time you may need to rebuild the carbs. There is a sticky on here on how to do it, look it over. I would also change your spark plugs and fuel filter.

 

[artr]

The buzzer should be fixed to tell you the ski is recognizing the key and alarm overheating conditions. The battery should be charged and load tested to make sure it is capable of starting the ski. Since you get a click when it does not turn over I would first use an insulated handle tool (screwdriver) to short across the top 2 posts of the start solenoid in the rear electrical box without the key installed to check the starter is cranking reliably. If not it could be the starter or the connections or cables to it. Next you could use a voltmeter to test if the yellow-red stripe wire at the base of the solenoid gets energized to approximately 12V when the key is on and the start button is pressed. If it does and the solenoid does not click, then check that the black wire at the base of the solenoid is shorted to ground. If it is not a reliable ground the the most likely cause is the bolt at the base of the coil that has a number of ground wires connected to it has corroded. It should be removed and cleaned along with the wire connectors to resolve the grounding issue. If the solenoid gets energized properly with a good ground at the base and does not click reliably or does not provide 12V to the starter connection at the top then the solenoid needs to be replaced.

 

[Lau]

The buzzer should be fixed to tell you the ski is recognizing the key and alarm overheating conditions. The battery should be charged and load tested to make sure it is capable of starting the ski. Since you get a click when it does not turn over I would first use an insulated handle tool (screwdriver) to short across the top 2 posts of the start solenoid in the rear electrical box without the key installed to check the starter is cranking reliably. If not it could be the starter or the connections or cables to it. Next you could use a voltmeter to test if the yellow-red stripe wire at the base of the solenoid gets energized to approximately 12V when the key is on and the start button is pressed. If it does and the solenoid does not click, then check that the black wire at the base of the solenoid is shorted to ground. If it is not a reliable ground the the most likely cause is the bolt at the base of the coil that has a number of ground wires connected to it has corroded. It should be removed and cleaned along with the wire connectors to resolve the grounding issue. If the solenoid gets energized properly with a good ground at the base and does not click reliably or does not provide 12V to the starter connection at the top then the solenoid needs to be replaced.

When I jump it the engine cranks, I also stated that the key sometimes works after turning the power off then reconnecting around 3p0 min later but this doesn’t work every time

 

[artr]

That's good that it cranks. Grim and I described other thing to check. You should download and look over the manual as Grim suggested. All the tests for DESS, start solenoid, start button, etc are described in the manual. That schematic is also there. I would first try to get it cranking and then maybe it will start and run. If it then doesn't run you could move on to the next steps to investigate why.

 

[burtshaver2021]

You have a lot going on in your message but to start a couple of things that jump out at me are 1. Never jump start these machines from a running vehicle, get a known good battery, have that battery load tested so you’re not chasing your tail due to that. 2. If it’s cranking over, it’s recognizing the key.

 

[MAL]

I am not sure if it is the same as a 96XP or not, but if it is there could be a fused relay in the electrical box that gets weak an needs a good strong battery charge or it will not work consistently. It can cause intermittent starting. The beeper will beep 4 times when it fails. You can try it with a fully charged battery and see if it starts consistently, but if the battery is just a little low it may not have the juice to activate the relay.

 

[artr]

That is the holder relay on 96 models with separate external CDI modules (XP, GTX). It can cause communication problems between the MPEM and the CDI modules (4 beeps) and a lack of spark but not problems cranking. In 97's and after I believe the CDI was integrated into the MPEM and there was no longer a need for a holder relay.