alexd51
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Well comparing prices HF at $29 and $23 at sears but not craftsman. I'll keep doing my research.
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Time to rebuild Challenger 1800 or to sell ?
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Toolanddiemaker
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I bought this one and I really like it http://m.sears.com/craftsman-compression-test-kit-used-for-automotive-motorcycle/p-00947089000P
But there are more options I'm sure others will chime in
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alexd51
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Dude that's creepy i was looking at the same one. Looking thru Craigslist and I'll pass by some of the pawnshops in my area see what i find.
Toolanddiemaker
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Lol! Man I wish you lived close you could just borrow mine! It seems to be my shops community tester everyone seems to want to borrow it.
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Not bad advice, I just never had luck. Yes, I do worry sometimes about the rubber mounts but the ones I have popped off had taken very little effort when bolted down to the ski/boat and use the clothsline. One I did out of the ski and I chased it all over the shop floor until I wedged a block of wood between the engine and belly pan(a 720) and vowed to never make that mistake again. I also got ahead of myself on my 96 and tore the engine down without removing the PTO. Well, that crank had to be used as a core for BRP and I didn't want to eat the $200 core charge on a F'd up crank so I let the dealer take it off and ship it back to me. They had it so hot and a pipe wrench to get it off. Just trying to help point out mistakes that can be caught well before we start to yank the engine and make it easy for Alex.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
The PTO is the rear flywheel, it's threaded onto the crankshaft so gets progressively tighter as the engine torque is applied. Also my have a thread locker applied to the threads before it was installed.
Some transmission fluid mixed with acetone 50% applied to the front magneto flywheel keyway and allowed to soak a while will help to make pulling the magneto wheel off with a proper wheel puller a bit easier.
Some transmission fluid mixed with acetone 50% applied to the front magneto flywheel keyway and allowed to soak a while will help to make pulling the magneto wheel off with a proper wheel puller a bit easier.
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alexd51
New Member
If im going to rebuild just the top end , do i still have to remove the PTO?
alexd51
New Member
I dont know yet how bad or good these motors are yet, in the inside i mean. So lets see when i start taking it apart. Still have not gotten a compression tester so lets see what that tells me.
Is it wise to just do a top end rebuild and leave the bottom alone?
alexd51
New Member
I knew that was the answer just wanted to calm the other voices in my head.
This might be a stupid question but i imagine they sell complete rebuild kits right? Any you guys recommend?
Toolanddiemaker
Active Member
http://www.fullboreonline.com/rebuilt_seadoo_engine.htm
http://www.seadooengineshop.com/
http://www.shopsbt.com/jetski/sea-doo-engine-787-800-xp-gsx-gtx-spx-challenger.html
I used full bore for a top end before,and ses for a full rebuild. But if your in Florida sbt might be a good idea due to shipping cost plus the warranty. If you get everything separate and decide to build it yourself full bore has a kit that includes a top end and rebuilt crank, that's assuming your counter balance shaft is good along with your brass rotary gear and seal. http://www.fullboreonline.com/sea_doo_800_top_end_rebuild_kits.htm
Prob better off having a shop rebuild your motor because they will rebuild everything and warranty it but do the install yourself to save the $. I rebuilt one of the motors in my boat myself with a top end from full boar and a rebuilt crank from sbt along with new crank seals from sbt. Its been running great along side of the motor I had rebuilt by a shop and actually had better compression lol I prob just had beginners luck! But with the 800 you have more variables such as rave valve Clarence on a new top end and the counterbalance shaft. Sometimes when you do the math it's actually cheaper to have an engine shop rebuild it plus less stressful if it's new to you.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
You should be able to "rent" a compression gauge from vatozone I think? No need to tear anything apart or spend money until you measure compression and inspect the jet pumps carefully to see if they need rebuilding, IMO.
No need to waste money doing unnecessary work.
Did you say the RAVE is still stuck in one cylinder? If you're really careful not to bend the shaft then see about threading a small slide hammer on the end. You can make a slide hammer by using a threaded coupling to attach on the valve shaft and piece of all-thread rod, and maybe a big socket and washers/nuts or some kind of weight.
I use a slide hammer if possible or you might try a block of wood lying on the motor and a claw hammer for leverage to extract the valve. Another idea is to wrap a rag around the shaft to avoid scratching it and use vice grips to get a good grip to pull and provide a bit of weight to help.
However you do it, be careful not to bugger up the valve by bending the shaft so pull straight b/c if it's damaged (imperceptibly fractured) it can break off later and fall down inside the cylinder while the motor is running and that would be quite ugly.
No need to waste money doing unnecessary work.
Did you say the RAVE is still stuck in one cylinder? If you're really careful not to bend the shaft then see about threading a small slide hammer on the end. You can make a slide hammer by using a threaded coupling to attach on the valve shaft and piece of all-thread rod, and maybe a big socket and washers/nuts or some kind of weight.
I use a slide hammer if possible or you might try a block of wood lying on the motor and a claw hammer for leverage to extract the valve. Another idea is to wrap a rag around the shaft to avoid scratching it and use vice grips to get a good grip to pull and provide a bit of weight to help.
However you do it, be careful not to bugger up the valve by bending the shaft so pull straight b/c if it's damaged (imperceptibly fractured) it can break off later and fall down inside the cylinder while the motor is running and that would be quite ugly.
alexd51
New Member
Already called all the major ones in the area and none rent it. I asked why they all said it was not a specialty tool? But they rent a regular wrench set? Thats a specialty tool?
I'm buying one sometime this week or next, saw one at Sears but closest sears is a bit out of the way .
Toolanddiemaker
Active Member
Well I think 787's are supposed to be 155psi with no more than 5psi difference between the two cylinders so I think your looking at two fried motors or at the least top ends.If it were me I would take the heads off and have a look at the cylinder walls if they are bad take the jugs off and access the damage. Those numbers don't look good, I had bad compression with a 93xp that had low numbers and a big difference between the cylinders and that top end was toast.The crank can also have pieces of metal tossed around in it so that should also be looked at checked and or have rebuilt. I guess see what others say before you tear everything down but your compression numbers are pretty bad.
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alexd51
New Member
Yep sounded bad to me too. I was already planning on SBT motors. I rather start from 0 with SBT motors than take these 2 apart and find all sorts of crap. Hey already found out the hard way last owner lied to me big time so im not going to venture into the abyss with these motors nope ,no sir SBT it is.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yep, sorry to hear that.
alexd51
New Member
Well guys im sorry to inform that im getting rid of my 97 challenger 1800 . I was going to get 2 SBT motors but this past month the company i was driving for got sold and im out of a job. I was planning on using my tax return to buy the motors but now i need that money for something else. I don't want to leave the boat in the garage just gathering dust and rotting away so I'm just going to sell as is at a loss just to get rid of it. I don't want to part it out because 2yrs from now i will still have parts laying around. After i get back to a better $ place i might buy a old ski or depending i might even consider buying a Spark but for now i will be saying goodbye to the boat. Anyone interested I'm in Orlando, FL.
Toolanddiemaker
Active Member
That sucks sorry about you losing your job hopefully you find something soon. Good luck to you!
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alexd51
New Member
Yes it sucks, i though by now i would be in the water or about to be.
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