throttle cable adjustment

[esg]

I'm in the process of making all the adjustment on the carburetor per the maint. manual, there's one adjustment, the "full throttle adjustment with proper slack"
calls for a .4mm or 1/64 gap between throttle lever and throttle stop anyone ever done this adjustment, any help would be appreciated. Thanks,

ESG

 

[kustomkarl]

Be sure you get full throttle and the cable snaps back to idle position too. There needs to be a small amount of play at the end, that's what the manual is referring to.

Karl

 

[timmyboy76]

cables...

esg...you still need those cables, you hit me up about.

 

[esg]

Throttle cables

Yes, I'm waiting for your response, last I heard from you was that you were going to WU to inquire about sending and receiving money.

 

[esg]

So, the manual refers to the thottle lever as the lever in the console?, and what would be the thottle stop. The small amount of play would be at what end.

 

[kustomkarl]

All adjustment should be with enging not running. First adjust the cable at the closed or idle position...with the control handle at idle position. carbs throttle valveshould be all the way shut. NO play at cable. Then push the conrtoll handle to full position.The carbs should be open at 90degree position. and wide open. there should be a small amount of play on the cable at this position.

Karl

 

[esg]

Ok, thanks

 

[esg]

I'm also in the process of bleeding the oil injection lines the first step as I understand it is, to open the bleed screw on the pump and crank the engine so that the pump sucks the oil from the tank and at the same time bleed the lines of air. Is this correct?

 

[kustomkarl]

No just open the screw on the injector pump and let gravity do it's thing... If the engine is running it will pull air into the lines going into the engine...

Karl

 

[timmyboy76]

also, after tightening the bleed screw, when you go to fire the motors, hold the oil pump arm, at wide open, to fill up the injection lines.

 

[esg]

Ok, thanks fellows, I knew it had to be somewhat easy just wasn't sure.

 

[esg]

I loosened up the bleed screws and there's no oil getting to the pump, the oil stops at about 7 or 8 inches from the pump. I closed the bleed screw held the pump lever wide open while cranking the engine, oil in lines is in the same position.

 

[seadoosnipe]

I loosened up the bleed screws and there's no oil getting to the pump, the oil stops at about 7 or 8 inches from the pump. I closed the bleed screw held the pump lever wide open while cranking the engine, oil in lines is in the same position.

The oil pump is vapor locked. The gear type pump is not really designed to move air. Are you sure you have the bleed screw open all the way?

Once you get the oil into the pump, you can wind the cam all the way back while someone is turning over the engine and move the oil to your intake. It's just getting it past the pump. If you can, you might try and take the hose loose right at the connection at the pump. Bleed the air out and then, slide it back on. I usually put a shop rag under the magneto and do this. If your able to see well enough, you can get the line close to the edge of that nipple, then angel it to the side a bit and the air will be expelled as the oil moves forward. Then put the line on just as a few drops of oil come through.

The oil filter has a good bit of resistance to it. So, it's kinda hard for that oil to free flow easily.............:cheers:

 

[esg]

I loosened the bleed screws to the point where there's only a couple of threads holding them, should I removed them completely? I would try removing the line at the pump but the clamps securing the lines are the crimp type, crimping a new one in place will be practically impossible due to the tight space. There's no way I can crimp the clamp with the special pliers. Any other suggestions?

 

[seadoosnipe]

Bleed screw...

Yes, take the bleed screw all the way out. The oil will not come pouring out. It moves through the line very slowly. So, when it finally reaches the pump, you'll be able to put the screw back in. Keep a rag under the mag area in case oil runs down the cover, you'll be ready for it........:cheers:

 

[esg]

Would you recommend replacing the crimp type clamps that secure the oil lines to the pumps for the screw type clamps, I would like to try removing the oil line as you suggested, if the bleed screw procedure doesn't work.

 

[timmyboy76]

nope...i'd use zip-ties there...no "load"/pressure, being created, for any ther type of hose-clamps.