• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

98 gtxl mag cylinder full of gas and clean plug.

No, your 951 carbs are different than your other skis.
K so I got the parts (back2oem) and rebuilt the carbs.
I think I got the pop off right, popping at about 21-22 and holding at about 18
Reassembled and hoped she’d purr like a kitten.
Sadly she do not.
I don’t think I can post a video on here but basically it’ll start if I give it gas but die if I let off.
Should go ahead and turn the throttle screw or is there still something else wrong maybe.
 
Did you replace levers too, they could be bent
I think one spark plug cable was loose oops! I clicked it down tight and it’s running better.
Gonna water test and report back.
Are levers the same as needle arms? If so then yes I did but I had to bend one down slightly to make it flush
 
Did you replace levers too, they could be bent
Ok so we went for a water test
She ran for about half an hour of pretty hard rippin.
But right of the start she was a little sputtery at idle but not quite enough to stall.
This seemed to worsen with time and soon it would stall if I wasn’t giving any throttle.
Eventually it started to stall even at just lower throttle positions, so we headed for the dock.
On the way back it started to stall repeatedly (and I noticed “12v low” on the display)
I managed to get back but by the time I did all it would do is start if I held throttle wide open, roar forward for a second and die.

I though it might just be my rectifier but I get 13.5v at 3000rp (it seems to be running fine on the trailer at home but is hard to start unless it’s just been running)
 
When they aren’t running right bring them right back to shore, when there’s a big or a hesitation that’s a sign it could be running lean so best to bring her back in and assess. Sounds like you guys had a good time, right on.
 
When they aren’t running right bring them right back to shore, when there’s a big or a hesitation that’s a sign it could be running lean so best to bring her back in and assess. Sounds like you guys had a good time, right on.
Thanks for the good advice. I’m new to this stuff so I’m not great with the tuning vocabulary.
Any throttle activity seemed to produce instant acceleration so to me I would think there was no bog/hesitation but maybe I’m not understanding the terminology right.
I certainly don’t want to be tuning in the wrong direction.

Now that I’ve rebuilt the carbs, checked the pop off and confirmed my new battery is being charged (I probably just got 12v low from all the starter use), I’m pretty sure it’s time to start fiddling with those high and low screws.

I’ve seen some videos on how to do it although it does seem to be either an art form or a science.

Also I’m unsure how dual carbs affect the process, do I always adjust both carbs equally when tuning?
 
Thanks for the good advice. I’m new to this stuff so I’m not great with the tuning vocabulary.
Any throttle activity seemed to produce instant acceleration so to me I would think there was no bog/hesitation but maybe I’m not understanding the terminology right.
I certainly don’t want to be tuning in the wrong direction.

Now that I’ve rebuilt the carbs, checked the pop off and confirmed my new battery is being charged (I probably just got 12v low from all the starter use), I’m pretty sure it’s time to start fiddling with those high and low screws.

I’ve seen some videos on how to do it although it does seem to be either an art form or a science.

Also I’m unsure how dual carbs affect the process, do I always adjust both carbs equally when tuning?
I’ve always set them to the factory settings from Seadoo source and luckily it’s worked out for me, I’m also always keeping them stock, no aftermarket parts. All I’m saying is, if it’s not running correctly bring her back in and figure out what’s wrong, I’ve seen so many threads that mention not running correctly but they thought that continuing to run it may help clear up the issue, but it doesn’t.
 
I’ve always set them to the factory settings from Seadoo source and luckily it’s worked out for me, I’m also always keeping them stock, no aftermarket parts. All I’m saying is, if it’s not running correctly bring her back in and figure out what’s wrong, I’ve seen so many threads that mention not running correctly but they thought that continuing to run it may help clear up the issue, but it doesn’t.
It sure didn’t in this case lol thanks anyway.
 
Update:
I finally did a compression test and got 133 on both
And checked my plugs and they look like this
(Sorry not sure if it’s the site or my phone but I’ll try to add the photo later, but the left one is toasty brown and the mag side one is a charred/oxidized black/grey)

My limited understanding tells me the magneto side cylinder is running lean but I haven’t the first idea why.
 
The one on the left looks almost perfect, one on the right looks rich. IF they were lean you would expect the porcelain to be white and dry.
 
The one on the left looks almost perfect, one on the right looks rich. IF they were lean you would expect the porcelain to be white and dry.
So with that being said should I go ahead and adjust the low speed screw on the one that seems off until it’s running right?

Or could there be another reason factory setting aren’t working?
 
I didn't see where you stated what carb rebuild kit you used and whether you did a pressure test. Normally you don't need to adjust the low or high. There is a thread on her about how and why for the adjuster, I would recommend reading that first before fiddling. They are not easy to get right.
 
Both lows should be 1-1/4 front and rear
Front high is 0
Rear High is 1/4
Both low “edit I mean high” are at 0 as per the info I found and how I found them. Runs great at high end though.

Low end is a mess. I may just give up and try re-assembling both carbs and re testing the pop off in the spring, or trying to find a pro.

Getting a bit discouraged lol and our season in Canada is about over.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Lows are never zero.
Open them to the correct 1-1/4.

All skis would be a mess at zero and is why yours is too.
 
Then you have something else wrong, the highs have nothing to do with it running at low speed or idle.
 
Then you have something else wrong, the highs have nothing to do with it running at low speed or idle.
Yeah that’s why I was inquiring about adjusting the lows.
To confirm: you don’t think I should have to do that and should try to recheck my work on rebuilding the carbs?
 
You should not have to touch the adjusters from factory settings.

When is the last time the ski ran well?
Have you checked compression?
Have you checked the reeds?
 
Back
Top