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The stereo journey begins! - Updated July 30th, now completed

Looking good so far! I am curious to see more pictures!

I just ordered the bulk of what I'm putting in, now I need some advise on the secondary battery and switch over for it. I'm sure if I put it in as-is, I'll never get her started again!:)
 
I finally fired it up last night. I dont have the tower done yet but the rest is done. I got big time delayed because I got a really bad infection in my gums under my tooth. I was in so much pain I could barely think straight. Thats why I have not done any updates. Infection started clearing up yesterday and I got to work. Left town this morning to go visit family and take the boat out while having a nice picnic. Hopefully the weather will cooperate.

As soon as I get back to my house, I will upload pictures and finish the write up. I promise. It turned out really good!
 
Sako7STW- looks good. I've done an install on my speedster. It's held up very well for several years now. Good attention to details and quality components make all the difference. You may search my info for my setup if would help in anyway. Good luck, and post a video walk around or more pics.
 
Was out on the lake today. Sub is starting to break in and WOW it is pounding. Enter Sandman By Metallica and The Unforgiven sounded incredible!. I cant wait to finish the tower so I can hear that too!

Only problem is, i blew a fuse somewhere pr missed connecting a wire back up that is the accessory power to the dash. My lights, engine blowers, evac system, horn, ect dont have any power I found out. going to have to trace that one down!
 
I have not heard of any news to upgrading the electrical system, did you increase the alt size or at least use a battery isolator and 2 batteries?

I am also wondering did you use all marine grade/rated wiring and connectors?

As only tinned wire is required for use as well as uscg approved electrical.

The reason I mention is because this is something I do for a living is marine electrical and systems, as well as mechanical as well. If you do not use marine wire and connections then no matter wha spray you use on them they will rot out over time.


Being 1200w of system does not really effect the charging system what does is the current/amp draw from everything on it if the system was mply ooked up to he main or a second battery you may find that it kills your batteries or the charging system.

Also marine audio is not water proof as they state, make sure to keep the amps out of direct moisture or they will fry, also seal very well around and any holes above the radio as they as well are not water proof only the face plate is and even then not as much as we would think, just a little water into the back holes on top of the radio will fry it, I repair/replace a lot of radios due to water entering them, I also replace wiring and connections and fuse/ground blocks all the time on boats because automotive stuff was used, a standard car audio power wire lets say that is only $8 per foot will cost one lets say $18 per foot, there is a reason for this and the customers that I get usually do not blink at the price, a 1200w system of goot quality would run a customer near what you paid but in just wiring alone could be $800 easy!

When I say that car audio/wiring is used in boats I do not mean most customers did that themselves, instead places like mad marks, underground audio and other big name audio shops around town all have used non marine rated wiring here and I always end up repairing it the correct way. If done right the first time even though it seems very expensive it will save you down the road in costs.

One of the last ones I worked on, the major audio shop used a car electronics ground block, a car fuse block, car wiring, car power and ground cables, as well they zip tied the sirius radio to the radio harness so every wave or bump in the road was pulling on the harness on the radio then they did not seal around the face plate so water was seeping downward into the holes on the rear of the radio, they also used cheap marine speakers so everything lasted the customer only 11 months before problems, on wet days the radio may or may not work or only certain speakers a wave would cause problems as well, the speakers you could push your finger through, I had to replace everything except for one amp, cost the customer just over $2000 to have the repairs done even the speaker wires where car audio and not marine.
 
Yeah I agree.I bought all marine rated equipment and wiring. I spent almost $500 alone on the wiring.
 
Need Pic's Sako..

Hired a professional installer to put my new stuff in and he would really appreciate any pic's of your install Sako...

Here is the equipment I've purchased - your opinions, comments and criticism;s are welcome...

Head unit - Clarion CMD6 Marine CD/MP3/WMA Receiver with USB Port

http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-CMD6-Marine-Receiver-Port/dp/B001OQEC0S

Amp - ALPINE 5 CH MARINE AMP - PDX5M

http://www.amazon.com/ALPINE-CH-MARINE-AMP-PDX5M/dp/B001THTL9Y

Subwoofer - Alpine Type-R SWR-M100 - Marine subwoofer driver - 300 Watt - 10"

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Type-R-SWR-M100-Marine-subwoofer/dp/B001BWZCCM/ref=pd_cp_e_2

Speakers ( X 4 )- Polk Audio AA2652-A MM651UM 6.5-Inch Coax Ultra Marine Speaker

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA2652-MM651UM-6-5-Inch/dp/B001E5PN2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1275567765&sr=1-1

I'm really hoping that this system will sound good...
 
Good choices. should sound good.

whew!!! - I'm one of those guys who does a ton of research before I buy and these items all semmed to get positive reviews from everyone...

Now the problem is - where do I put it???

the sub is going at the bottom of the walk-through... using the hull of the boat as the enclosure.... hope that works... and hope the installer can access that area...

the second set of speakers is tricky... Sako said about there been pre-cut holes near the back bench seat handles.. but I don't feel them or see them.. but have not taken off the upholstery yet... there sure isn't alot of room there... wondering if they changed the size of the cubby holes on the sides of the boat... mine been a 2002 utopia and his been a 2006 I believe...

I sure hope my installer can find a spot for them....

where does the amp go?... under the golve box???...

need those pic's Sako!!!!!
 
First my apologies, it has been a brutal couple of weeks and there has been zero computer time for me.

Here is my Charging system upgrade. I first moved the starter relay and ECM (I think that's what it is) mount. Put in a plate I built to hold the second battery. Pretty basic, nothing fancy but I forgot to take a picture of it before I put the battery in and you cant see it in the pictures. Installed the second battery and a isolating relay on the end towards the end of the boat. I ran 2/0 cable with a inline fuse to a 1 farad capacitor that I mounted in the storage pocket on the drivers side. I then ran 2/0 cable to the amp area under the dash where I used 2 distribution blocks to split to the separate amps. The fuse block is car audio grade. I took and sealed it up with marine silicone so no moisture can get in it.

Everything else is car audio grade as well except the speaker wires for mids and tweets which is marine grade. While I understand the need for marine grade in some areas, I do not agree that it is necessary here. We live in a very dry and arid climate. You could completely drench your boat in the morning and it will be dry by afternoon. Moisture corrosion is not a problem here and never has been. This is not my first rodeo and I have never had problems in the past. However alot of what I did use is high end oxygen free wiring or at least industrial grade stuff.....uh.. don't ask! I feel 100% confident in what I used. Everything that is electronic is installed in probably the driest place in the boat so I am confident in that as well.
 
Here is a picture of the Capacitor. I like this thing alot. It is nice to have the digital voltage readout to monitor the battery with. I have found this system is a bit much when all three amps are going and at full volume. It will drain my battery after a full day. but I figure charge it up and only turn on the amps I need and turn down the sub some for just enjoyment and not sheer volume and when i did that, it kept up perfectly.
 

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For some reason my pics didnt attach to my message above so I am breaking them out I guess. Here is the bracket before and after pics.
 

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Here is the battery mounted before the addition of the bracket which I dont have a picture of. I would take one but really cant see anything enough to make it worth while. Then also the picture of cabling and fuse holder. Notice the stainless hold downs on the wiring to hole everything in place.
 

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Well the next parts I thought I would post about is the dash stuff on each side. I installed a wired remote for the head unit on the drivers side. it was really easy. I loosened the dash up and propped it up for clearance to cut it. i used my air cut off wheel to cut the lines i drew from the template that was included with the unit. Mounted it with the flush mount style. One thing I have to say, I was disappointed in Kenwwood with this. The remote only came with about 30" of wire. Why the heck would I need to mount a remote 30" away from the headunit? STUPID!! So yah it forces you to spend another $20.00 on an extension cable. I also mounted my sub amp remote gain control under the dash, just under the other remote. This was also simple and straightforward.
Having these remotes has been really nice. Definitely worth the extra money spent.

On the passenger side the headunit simply mounted in the stock headunits hole. i only had to drill new mounting holes where they were needed. this deck is sealed and does not require a cover. it houses your Ipod on MP3 device on the inside to protect them while in use. It is simply AWESOME!!

Next to the deck you will see 3 switches. One switch is wired to the memory wire for the headunit. i did this so that when i am out for the weekend or a trip, i only have to do all the settings once and just leave it be. BUT, I can switch it off for long term storage where battery drain is a concern.

One switch, turns on the sub amp and the other turns on the tower speaker amp. the boat speakers amp turns on with the headunit. I figure why tax the batteries and charging system when they are not always desired anyways. The headunits amp is not used.
So here are the pics for these.
 

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Looks good. I hear ya on the wired remote. I bought one to add to the swim platform. The clarion comes with no wire out of the remote at all. Just a plug. You have to spend $35 on the 24 ft cable.

I also ended up going with a RF remote that floats. I can control the tunes from the water. You can get one too at remotesthatfloat.com
 
I will have to check that site out tonight. I am going to try and post some more pics after work. If time looks good, I will do the whole sub install.
 
This is for Jimmy. These 2 pics best show the holes I had to cut out. The existing hole didn't quite match where I needed the speaker to be but it was easy to make the hole match with the hole saw! I hope these help.

I also installed a third set of 6.5" 's and tweets in the bow. Simple hole saws for both. Took about 30 min total including wiring to the amps.
 

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thanks Sako... truly appreciated... my install goes tomorrow and I will be referring him to this thread... I hope it goes well
 
Finally got some time so I thought I would finish this thread up with the sub install and tower speakers.

The sub went in the cubby hole behind the drivers seat. It is a 12" Kicker Solo L5. I sealed the plastic pan that forms the cubby hole with expanding foam. I added some aluminum rods to the inside of the panel for strength. and to minimize flex
 

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Ok here is more. I first cut out the opening in the panel so I knew where I wanted the sub to be. I then made a template for the wood panel that was attached to the boat panel for not only strength but also to bring the sub out for clearence
 

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