The stereo journey begins! - Updated July 30th, now completed

[Sako7STW]

You know it Karl! I have pretty limited resources around here for stainless so I tried to get everything stainless that i can. That, that i cant find in stainless I am giving a second shot of zinc coating and then coated with a corrosion inhibitor.

As for the electrical connections, I am using a deoxifier/cleaner on all the connecting points, connectors, fuses, ect. That will make for a much better connection and maximize the transfer of current (a little trick I learned back in the competition days). Once the connections are made I then have a non-conductive corrosion protectant spray that I will apply to all the connections as an overcoat to further protect them. Both the deoxifier and spray, will repel water. I will take a picture and post it tonight of the products so everyone will know what I am using.

 

[Sako7STW]

Since this is now stickyed and the pressure is on i will do my best for good descriptions and picture from here on out. :hurray:

Well I made more progress today. I got alot of the wiring ran and mounted the hideaway unit under the dash. I will take another picture of that area once all the wiring is done. Kinda looks like a birds nest right now LOL. I got the speaker wire ran for the wakeboard tower speakers to where there will be a quick disconnect to be able to remove the tower for storage. I then got the 6 1/2's and tweets mounted in the stock locations. I used a 2" hole saw to make the hole for the tweeters. I used a razor blade and patience to make the cuts in the vinyl. I had to do a "Y" connection here to run the leads for the next set of mids (more on that in a second).

I sealed the cubby hole that is going to become my sub box. tomorrow I will cut out the excess foam and check everything. Depending on time, I cant decide, but i may go in and reinforce it all with some more fiberglassing but thats messy and I hate doing it! I like doing things right though so we will see. No pix on this yet.

It rained alot today so the first half of the day was spent taking the tower off, backing the boat into the garage, drying everything out, and a trip to town. So there was alot of progress but not the type that would necessitate pictures.

A few pointers. I like to use solder shrinks when i have to make "Y" connections in marine applications. They are not cheap but they are a butt connector that you put your wires into both sides that you wish to join. You then use a pencil torch or a Bernz-o-matic(Sp?) type one to heat the whole connector. At the right temp the solder melts, fusing the wires and the heat shrink will shrink and seal the whole deal. The pic is crappy but oh well.

I also took a picture of the three chemicals I am using to protect my connections. The red squeeze bottle is my favorite stuff in the world. It is a deoxidizer that is non-entrensical that I use on plug jacks and RCA connections. The stuff is liquid gold I tell ya, De-Oxit by Caig Industries, GET YOU SOME!! The other two you can see the names and you can get them both in the electrical section at Home Depot. The white tube is simular to di-electric grease but WAY cheaper. I use it to coat my bare wire ends and connectors before connecting. The spray I use to coat everything once it is all connected to give it a overcoat of protection. It can be used for lots of other stuff to, just look on the can.

:rant: OH CRUD, I JUST REALIZED I FORGOT TO RUN THE SPEAKER WIRE FOR THE SUB! THATS GOING TO BE MORE WORK NOW!! :rant:

 

[Sako7STW]

Here is the chemicals and the connectors.

 

[jimmy2litre]

Thanks!!!

I can't thank you enough for taking the time to document this... I will be taking all this info - and the info to come to my installer... I'm thinking he is maybe pushing me towards wakeboard tower speakers... but I want to put that project off for a year... right now I just want to add some serious sound to the boat itself... please keep the pics coming of the locations where you are putting everything... curious on how the subs will work in the walkthrough area... and any subs that you want to put under the back bench area... How exactly are you going to do that?... will you incorporate (cut and make use of) the existing shell storage into your installation? My guy says I need to use at least 10" inch sub(s)... and that they just can't fit under the bench...

again - so happy you replied to me thread...!!!!!!

 

[Sako7STW]

Jimmy, just so that you are clear on what I am doing. Like i said in your thread, I was going to put the sub under the passenger dash and was going to utilize the space that is now housing the amps to build the box in. Problem is the dash was glued to the boat and without risk of damaging it I couldn't get it out. So now I am mounting my sub in the side panel behind the drivers seat. That cubby hole is an ABS plastic or fiberglass enclosure mounted to the boat and then has some carpet stuck to it. So like I said i sealed off the seams and will build a front panel to hold the sub and will seal it all off making for a full sealed box. Strength will not be prime, I know that, but it will be good enough for an open environment like a boat.

If I would have thought about the 10" subs in the sides, I would have went that route but since i already had all my stuff, I am sticking with it. I know it will still rip though. Speaking of the 10" route in the sides, I would bet prefab boxes could be found and used pretty easily for that.

I just ordered another set of 6 1/2's and tweets for the bow. I found when I removed the side panel for the sub install that there is a hole already cut into the boat for a speaker to go there so i decided to take advantage of that and putting the 2 sets I already have in the back section of the boat and the new ones in the bow. Phoenix Gold says their amp is not 1ohm stable, I am going to see if it is 1.3ohm stable LOL.

 

[jimmy2litre]

are you saying that you think I can still put a 10 inch sub in the lower walkthrough part?... would I access that through the front bow backrests?...

or - do I need to put it behind drivers' seat... also, you said there are pre-cut holes in the bow for speakers?... do I access them through the backrest as well?...

I'm one of those guys who is very nervous about taking things apart... because I'm not a handy guy at all and am afraid I'll never get it back the way it is...

I was thinking 4 speakers, a 4 channel amp(?) with the speakers paired (?) and a sub... should I be considering a pair of tweeters? problem is all 4 speakers will be towards the front - using the original spot (is that 6 1/2"S) and now the bow spot if it is already cut...

your input would be appreciated...

 

[jimmy2litre]

RFoster

I checked out your thread of your build... very nice ... I'm going to get my installer to register and log-in to help him with my boat... he could use all your guys' help...

by the way - is your hydroturf molded diamond or cut diamond? I'm waiting for my samples before I order...

 

[RFoster130]

Thos connectors are exacly what I need for rewiring my trailer. Do you have a link to them somewhere?

Also, the way my boat is with the twin engines there was not any way possible to get an type of enclosure in behind the fiberglass to mount the subs. they are just bolted directly to the fiberglass. The hull makes a great enclosure by itself. It really rocks. Jus an alternative. The kicker 10" marine subs are considered free air's according to kicker.

 

[Sako7STW]

are you saying that you think I can still put a 10 inch sub in the lower walkthrough part?... would I access that through the front bow backrests?...
You can get a good look at the area through there to give you a better idea of just how much box would fit.
I am thinking this box would work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-L5-L7-10...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e5bce5a51
With that box you would use this sub:
http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-2008-S10...Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item5d28ef270d
or - do I need to put it behind drivers' seat... also, you said there are pre-cut holes in the bow for speakers?... do I access them through the backrest as well?...

No, dont put it behind the seat. No, there are not precut holes in the bow, the pre-cut holes I spoke of are in the side panels, behind the upholstered trim panels, by the back seats "Oh Chit" handles. You can in Fosters pic a speaker in nearly the same spot. Almost the same spot as his Sub actually.

I'm one of those guys who is very nervous about taking things apart... because I'm not a handy guy at all and am afraid I'll never get it back the way it is...

I was thinking 4 speakers, a 4 channel amp(?) with the speakers paired (?) and a sub... should I be considering a pair of tweeters? problem is all 4 speakers will be towards the front - using the original spot (is that 6 1/2"S) and now the bow spot if it is already cut...

If you want to stick to the K.I.S.S. system of doing things, I would not go with separate tweets. I would get a good coax like these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Kicker-KM6000-0...=ViewItem&pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item1c12a98d4b

or like these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clar...0aQQitemZ290431904778QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo

This amp would be a good option for your entire system, this is a brand new one but if you look you can find used and refurbished ones for far less but just showing you an example:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...ewItem&pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item1e5bd7e4be


your input would be appreciated...

I hope this helps you out some more.

 

[Sako7STW]

Thos connectors are exacly what I need for rewiring my trailer. Do you have a link to them somewhere?

Here is a link to some Ebay. The things are not cheap at all but they work wonderful. I think they are the cat's meow for doing trailer plugs and am actually about to convert mine to a 7 pin and might have to use a few myself. If you know anyone who sells Kar Products/Barnes, Lawson, or Fastenal, they carry them. I have seen them at Walmart even, and I know for sure most NAPA's have them. They make these in terminals to, not just butt connectors. I recommend a pencil torch or hobby torch. They are much easier to use with them. I give my solder ring a light crimp before applying heat so that it holds the wire in place. These things cost to much to ruin one from the wire slipping out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heat...ewItem&pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item27aef8926b

 

[Sako7STW]

I got alot done today but I am beat so I will work on it tomorrow and will have a bunch of pictures for ya. Night all!

 

[jimmy2litre]

great info!!! Do you guys think I need a box for the sub?... or can the space in there work as the enclosure itself?... Foster said he used the hull of the boat as the enclosure and it worked... but he has his in a different spot and a different boat... does the passenger side walkthrough location open up underneath to the rest of the boat?...

just wondering... I'm such an amateur... I'm thinking my installer will know alot more not that he has a starting point...

 

[jimmy2litre]

can you guys suggest a deck?... I need ipod usb capability and would like it out the back so I can put ipod in glove box - and to see the ipod info on the deck display... remote control... my guy showed me a clarion unit (Clarion AM-FM MP3-WMA 5-CD Marine Deck (CMD5) that seemed ok or a sony deck...

 

[RFoster130]

I went with the Clarion M475. But I had a few reason why I chose it. It was really the only radio that had all the features I wanted. First, I wanted one that had 3 preamp outputs. I wanted it to have an ipod hookup. Sirius ready, and the ability to hook up a wired remote. I plan on finally adding that to the swim deck this week. It also comes with a wireless remote. For me it was the best choice and it was also vey affordable. You can find the refurb unit for $120.

 

[RFoster130]

Something else I forgot to mention that saved me a ton of money. If you are like me and use ebay for almost everything it works great. You can sign up for an account on microsoft's search engine called bing. then you just type what you are looking for into the bing site and click on the ebay link. You have to use paypal to pay and use buy it now on stuff. It varies on the amount they give you back, but the lowest is usually 8%. I caught it at 14% one day and that is when i ordered a lot of stuff. Saved me over 100 bucks on everything. You can google it and see how people do it.

 

[Sako7STW]

I am going to have to look into that Bing. I am about to buy me a new laptop and am looking at a few on Ebay, Bing might help save me some money. Thanks Foster!

 

[Sako7STW]

can you guys suggest a deck?... I need ipod usb capability and would like it out the back so I can put ipod in glove box - and to see the ipod info on the deck display... remote control... my guy showed me a clarion unit (Clarion AM-FM MP3-WMA 5-CD Marine Deck (CMD5) that seemed ok or a sony deck...

This is the unit I bought and I am in love and haven't even turned it on yet. the ipod goes inside the stereo where it is sealed off and protected from the elements. 3 pre-amp outputs as well:

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Marine/KMR-700U

I think I give $217 new, not refurb. Havent seen any refurbs on these yet. No CD though, but I dont use my CD's anymore.

 

[jimmy2litre]

Some more questions

okay - I'm sold on the Alpine PDX5M amp... looks like a deal at $422 on amazon(?)...

sub-woofer - Foster - did you get the kicker sub that comes in the sealed box?.... is this what I should be considering?

Sako - I am considering the Alpine Type-R SWR-M100 - Marine subwoofer driver - 300 Watt - 10"... and putting it in the walkthrough part passenger side and using that area as the chamber/enclosure.... would this work?... would the vibration shake the crap out of the glove box and dash area above it?

is this a decent sub? $106 plus - on amazon...

thinking clarion CMD5 for head unit... future shop here in Canada has them for $200 right now...

speakers? - looking for recommendations...

 

[jimmy2litre]

that kenwood unit looks real good... my head hurts - I hate not knowing anything about this stuff...

 

[RFoster130]

The alpine amp is worth every penny of that. If you did the bing trick i mentioned and bought all your stuff on ebay you would save a lot more. I just bought the kicker 10" marine subs. They dont need a box behind them. Cut your hole in the boat and mount them in. If you want all kicker to match you can find the 6.5's on ebay also.

For 4 speakers and 2 subs and the amp, you can use the bing search feature and get it all for $665 shipped.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-KM620-MA...=ViewItem&pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item5d2931f9eb


http://cgi.ebay.com/2-KICKER-06KM10...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f2b6dc79

http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-PDX-5M-M...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item335ba0a956


You could throw in that kenwood unit for 166.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Kenwood-KMR-700...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b0b9cfc8

Nice system for a total of $831.

 

[Sako7STW]

The alpine amp is worth every penny of that. If you did the bing trick i mentioned and bought all your stuff on ebay you would save a lot more. I just bought the kicker 10" marine subs. They dont need a box behind them. Cut your hole in the boat and mount them in. If you want all kicker to match you can find the 6.5's on ebay also.

For 4 speakers and 2 subs and the amp, you can use the bing search feature and get it all for $665 shipped.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-KM620-MA...=ViewItem&pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item5d2931f9eb


http://cgi.ebay.com/2-KICKER-06KM10...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f2b6dc79

http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-PDX-5M-M...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item335ba0a956


You could throw in that kenwood unit for 166.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Kenwood-KMR-700...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b0b9cfc8

Nice system for a total of $831.

That is a killer price!!

 

[Sako7STW]

I promise guys, a whole bunch more pics and write up to come. I am kinda in the half done here , half done there, then half done here and half done there again stage. So I want to get more done before I take more pictures for better before's and after's. So far I got the second battery in, all the power wiring ran (which turned out sick), did a pretty trick install spot for the capacitor, and 3 out of 4 of the mid and tweets are done. Half the sub box is done and I am going to be working on the rest of the sub box at work over the weekend. I will be taking pictures as I go on that too.

Still to go:

Sub box
mount 4th mid and tweet in side panel with sub
Drill holes and run wiring through wakeboard rack
remount wakeboard rack on boat
mount wakeboard rack speakers
finish power wiring from distribution blocks to amps
Wire in relay for remote turn ons
Wire switches for remote turn on's (2 amps)
wire switch for memory lead on head unit
install wired sub amp remote gain control
Install wired head unit remote (as soon as extension cable shows up)
Install 3rd set of mids and tweets in bow when they arive

I think that bout covers it. :ack:

 

[RFoster130]

Sounds like you are moving right along. I am excited to see the pics.

 

[Sako7STW]

I have to admit, this has taken a lot longer than I thought it would. I have installed systems that were just as complex as this in 1/3 the time I have in this so far. My legs feel like I have done 500 squats from climbing in and out of the boat. I think I have dug out 15 or 20 fiberglass slivers out of my hands and have a bunch left to still get out. I am being really meticulous with the connections and stuff and that adds a bunch of time right there. The numerous trips to town have really delayed things but as much as I would like to, I don't have a hardware store in my garage. It may sound like I am complaining, and I am some, but really, I am loving every minute of it!!!!!!

 

[RFoster130]

any updates?