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The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread

He's using the straw and spraying directly into the hole where the pilot/low speed jet screws in. NOTE: when you reinstall the low speed screw to build more pressure to those holes, use the OLD rubber O-ring on the low-speed screw. The carb cleaner isn't too friendly on rubber parts. No sense weakening the new one when you've got the old one right there.

Awesome thank you for the reply, I will give that a try and nice heads up on using the OLD rubber O-ring. Thanks
 
I am checking over some Sea-Doo carbs from a 787 and found I can't blow though the accelerator? jet, pictured, which has a number 7 stamped on it and the outlet hole is on the engine side.

Do these jets have check valves?
IMG_9834.jpg
 
OK, I removed the elbow and found it has a check valve.

I also tried to unscrew the jet with no luck, so I knocked the elbow back in with a drop of Locktite and then tried a bicycle pump, and the jet squirts fine.

I just don't have enough puff ! :-)

(and the pics in reverse order)

IMG_9846.jpgIMG_9845.jpg

IMG_9841.jpgIMG_9836.jpg
 
Hi I
I am checking over some Sea-Doo carbs from a 787 and found I can't blow though the accelerator? jet, pictured, which has a number 7 stamped on it and the outlet hole is on the engine side.

Do these jets have check valves?
View attachment 44728
I used some shrink tubing and connected the carb cleaner tube to this one on the outside. The carb cleaner tube wouldn't fit inside the inlet.
 
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Do you know what carb this is? I think the instructions that came with the oem kit show more gaskets than you used in your illustration. I may not have the stock carb for 1998 challenger 1800
And on the diagram which one is the mylar large one?
Thank you for your help.
 

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Do you know what carb this is? I think the instructions that came with the oem kit show more gaskets than you used in your illustration. I may not have the stock carb for 1998 challenger 1800
And on the diagram which one is the mylar large one?
Thank you for your help.

Once you get into it you will see that one carb uses more gaskets than the other, but the OEM carb kits come with enough gaskets to rebuild the carbs that have all the gaskets/seals. It's hard to explain since I've only done it once. One carb has the fuel pump built in and one does not, hence the extra gaskets.
 
Does the PTO carb have a diaphragm on the fuel filter side like the one on the MAG carb between carb and fuel pump?
 
Not a diaphragm, just one of the rubber gaskets. No clear plastic part.

D0E28F76-F846-473A-91ED-3225C9C3F883.jpg

One of the attached?
Ordered a dual carb rebuild kit from OSD parts and only received one of these and queried it with them, they say this should only go on the MAG carb and therefore I only need one and they supplied me correctly
 
Listen to Mikidymac, he knows his stuff. I haven't done a set of 40s in a minute. I did do my 38s this summer and now I'm wondering if I should crack the PTO carb and see exactly what I did. I know it runs well.
 
Just wanted to say THANKS for this thread. Just finished the mag carb and it is really nice to know I did it right. Let me just say that the gasket material under the pulse diaphragm cover is the toughest thing I have ever had to remove from anything, ever. Paint stripper wouldn't even touch it.
 
Just wanted to say THANKS for this thread. Just finished the mag carb and it is really nice to know I did it right. Let me just say that the gasket material under the pulse diaphragm cover is the toughest thing I have ever had to remove from anything, ever. Paint stripper wouldn't even touch it.
Tell me about it.
 
I just finished FINALLY rebuilding both carbs for my '96 GTX....I CANNOT emphasize enough about the TESTING part at the end of the STICKY.....I had everything together, took my time, checked, checked and triple checked everything. I could NOT get the PTO carb to pop-off or hold pressure....I would have never found that out without a pressure test....I had (god only knows how) inadvertantly used the OLD shaped O-ring gasket during the re-assembly....it was a bit dried out and lacked enough resiliency to form a proper seal with the pump cover.......Thank you Mikidymac for the original sticky post and the tips along the way.

Thank you RTW for that diagram too...most helpful.....this damn '96 will run again....even if it KILLS me. :rolleyes:
 
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