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Taking on water

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It's the same tubing used for the bailers I think [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] chime in
 
1of500 said:
Idk if it's at the joint cut it and reconnect
Click to expand...

I would hate to disconnect it, then find the hose split. If it's within a few inches of the end, cutting it could work. If it's not, I am back to where I am now.

BTW: vinyl has an op temp of 175F and 55psi burst.
 
Still taking on water!

Since my last post, I replaced the drain line tube and used SS clamps instead of zip ties. No leaks there anymore. No sooner did I fix that, and I got a 12 v Low. Had to replace the rectifier and that took some time to obtain and install. I launched it 3 weeks ago and noticed that it took on some water from the ramp to my dock, but did not have time to investigate.

So, today, I take it out, starts fine, runs fine, no more 12v Low, but in a 10 minute ride, I take on 1/2 gallon of water. The water is clear and lake temp, so I doubt it is going through the engine.

Tied it up and removed the seat, seat support and PTO cover. At least at idle, I can see nothing. No leaks from the intake hoses, drain hoses, no leaks from the water regulator.

The Carbon Seal feels loose. I can compress the bellows at least 1/4" with one hand and virtually no effort. I can also move it around on the Top Hat. At idle, there are no leaks there. Could it be that there is more pressure at speed and it only leaks then?

I R&R'd the pump last winter to replace the wear ring and rebuild the pump. I did not remove the driveshaft and, yes, I replaced the little rubber bumper on the end of driveshaft. Could I have reassembled the pump incorrectly? Even though I did not remove the bailers or the hoses (in the same OEM location, looped up against the back bulkhead) could water be coming in backwards from the bailers?

I am going to remove the ignition coil from the seat support and remove that support and ride it with no seat, hopefully, a little busy out there today, but I do not know what to look for ( other than water) or where to look.

Any help is appreciated!
 
I take it back. The water is warmer than the lake. It must be coming out of the engine or exhaust somewhere.

I just spent the last 2 hrs riding around without the seat and dodging Labor Day Weekend traffic.

I can't find anything. Nothing apparent from the exhaust, pisser is pissing, all Welch plugs in place and dry. It fills up to the bottom of the PTO flywheel which then picks it up and sprays it everywhere making further investigation impossible.

I pumped out 4 gals of water.

Any ideas?
 
Dave, With that amount of water I would guess it is coming from the case cooler. The cooler pan is most probably plastic like the DI's and it has cracked.
 
Just to make sure I understand, you guys are talking about part number 290811236, WATERCHANNEL COVER, which shows in the crankcase sub assembly parts list.

Right?
 
Also, looking at the Shop Manual, I cannot find any reference to this item. I think this is a picture of it while they discuss the assembly of the case halves:

47.jpg


But I cannot find any discussion on it at all in any section. That means I do not see how to bypass. This looks like a cover on the bottom of the engine block water jackets. I do not see any input, although the output is that drain line I replaced, I think.

Regardless, if that is it, I need to take it to my guy in So Carolina. I don't have the space or equipment to pull the engine and put it back.
 
On the mag end the fitting screws into the cover and the hose runs to the mag cooler. On the pto end the fitting screws into it and runs out the back.
 
If you find the leak there then the engine will have to come out in order to repair/replace.
 
jhjesse said:
On the mag end the fitting screws into the cover and the hose runs to the mag cooler. On the pto end the fitting screws into it and runs out the back.
Click to expand...

I know where the cooling hose goes into the mag cooler, it has a quick disconnect on it. I also see where it comes out. Looking at the picture, it looks like there is a threaded fitting hole on the mag side. If the output of the mag cooler goes to that fitting, I see how you can bypass. Simply route that to the drain line that connects to the fitting in the PTO side. Where I replaced the hose. Right?
 
Yes. I would do that for testing purposes, but not run it that way for and extended period of time. I know you won't, but it would be a good way to find out if that is in fact the problem.
 
jhjesse said:
Yes. I would do that for testing purposes, but not run it that way for and extended period of time. I know you won't, but it would be a good way to find out if that is in fact the problem.
Click to expand...

I see it in the water circuit in the Manual. They show the 2 fittings but conveniently do not show the water channel cover.

Thanks for your help, I think this is going to the shop. I could not bypass this and let my kids and grandkids ride. I still have my 2011 GTI LTD and my 1998 Donzi for the rest of this season (we pull around mid to late Oct), so time to plan a road trip, I think.

I will try the mirror tomorrow and report back.
 
Don't know if I was very much help, but I am always glad to help a fellow Georgian. Good luck.
 
1of500 said:
Get some hose clamps and pressure test the cooling side
Click to expand...

Hey man, just for shits and giggles, do me a favor, it'll be a $1.00 and 4 min trick that may or may not solve your problem. You mentioned that you pulled the bellows back a quarter inch with virtually no resistance. Go to the hardware store, buy a pack of standard zip ties, take your flathead screwdriver, unless the back clamp of the bellows, set the zip tie around it close to snug, then push that bellows forward as much as you can and simultaneously tighten that zip tie. Then retighten clamp. This puts added pressure on the bellows so you won't be able to pull it back as far. Please just try this and report back. If you're there anyway, it's a cheap and easy possible fix. Report back
 
96spxpos said:
Hey man, just for shits and giggles, do me a favor, it'll be a $1.00 and 4 min trick that may or may not solve your problem. You mentioned that you pulled the bellows back a quarter inch with virtually no resistance. Go to the hardware store, buy a pack of standard zip ties, take your flathead screwdriver, unless the back clamp of the bellows, set the zip tie around it close to snug, then push that bellows forward as much as you can and simultaneously tighten that zip tie. Then retighten clamp. This puts added pressure on the bellows so you won't be able to pull it back as far. Please just try this and report back. If you're there anyway, it's a cheap and easy possible fix. Report back
Click to expand...

I have zip ties.

Does it slip behind the bellows? That is, between the bellows and the hull?
 
Yes! Loosen the rear clamp but get the zip tie close to tight so when you push the bellows (accordion boot) forward with one hand you can get the zip tie snug with the other, then when it's in place, tighten it more. Helps if you've got 2 sets of hands w u
 
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