Stuck RAVE valve how to remove?

[alexd51]

So after reading the shop and owner manual and a lot of posts in here i finally got around to take the RAVE valves and surprise surprise. 2 of the Exhaust valve are missing and i have 2 sets of different bellows .


Is this normal?

Well from the 4 COMPRESSION SPRINGS 1 was completely rusted and in pieces .


Here you can see the 2 different bellows and might i say the O rings were missing from 2 of them and the ones that were still there are hard as a rock.


Ordered 4 new gaskets but i have 1 valve stuck inside the motor. I used some WD40 and its a bit lose it comes out about 1/4 inch and back in but it will not come out all the way. There is not much leverage to pull it out and of course its the valve next to the exhaust so even less space.
Any ideas how to get this one out?

Looks like the bottom part of the bellow fell apart and melted in there (my thoughts not sure if it actually happened) but the bottom part is nowhere to be found in either one of the ones missing.
I'm losing hope on this boat might put it on CL to swap for a smaller sportster or speedster with just 1 motor.

 

[jhjesse]

Make a slide hammer from a cheap pair of visegrips.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFdA01l32u8


Don't give up yet. These boats are a blast. Good Luck.

 

[alexd51]

Make a slide hammer from a cheap pair of visegrips.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFdA01l32u8


Don't give up yet. These boats are a blast. Good Luck.

Interesting tool but it will not work because of were the valve is , its a sideways pull and the exhaust is in the way plus theres thread at the top of the valve.

 

[Waterluvr]

I'm not a big fan of WD-40 for most things, but it's a great product to soften up carbon. Over the course of a couple days of spraying that valve several times it won't loosen it up enough to pull by hand I'd remove the cylinder.

At this point you don't know if the valve is still in one piece, if what you end up pulling out of there with the cylinder in place isn't 100% intact then your looking at getting into the whole motor instead of just one cylinder to find the pieces or inspect for damage from having been run with fragments in the crankcase.

 

[alexd51]

I tried again today and a bit more of WD40 and it moves still about 1/4 inch up and back down but it will not budge. A bit more of WD40 and i will try again in a day or two. If not then i will take drastic mesures. BTW Anyone can give me a rough estimate for replacing both motors?

 

[Spimothy Leary]

787's ?

$850 each at SBT and its only a couple hours drive for you to clearwater given your location that's definitely the way i'd go.

labor and materials will cost you extra

 

[alexd51]

787's ?

$850 each at SBT and its only a couple hours drive for you to clearwater given your location that's definitely the way i'd go.

labor and materials will cost you extra

[MENTION=29781]Spimothy Leary[/MENTION]

Thats what will kill me the labor, i just started another thread, found out 1 of the motors in this boat has been replaced before with a SBT and the labor was almost twice the amount of that of the motor.
$845.00 for the motor
$1500.00 For labor (15HRS @ $100HR)
=$2345
$2345 X 2 = $4690 not including parts just labor and motors......

1997 boat about $6000 fixing it and the resale value of almost just half of that.... I got some thinking to do....

 

[Spimothy Leary]

well, that's bullchit on the labor.... we can probably locate a qualified shade tree guy for you if we ask around, el-toro might know somebody, he's in your area, he's done a few swaps himself, but i doubt he wants to take on the project for somebody else....

dual engine swaps are a pain, but not $3000 labor pain.

 

[Dannyjd]

I just pulled both engines from my 97 challenger 1800 to replace the fuel tank.
Took less than 4 hours to R&R.
10 hours is just crazy!

 

[alexd51]

I just pulled both engines from my 97 challenger 1800 to replace the fuel tank.
Took less than 4 hours to R&R.
10 hours is just crazy!

I shuld have done this from the beginning. Tank had really old stale fuel and plenty of gunk inside that tank.
What happened with your tankm

 

[Dannyjd]

Mine was cracked!!
I had to make another one from alloy.

 

[alexd51]

Mine was cracked!!
I had to make another one from alloy.

Oh yes i remember your post. Awesome tank by the way. You are down under right ?

 

[Dannyjd]

Yeah mate, sunny Queensland

 

[Dannyjd]

However it's a nice cool day today

 

[alexd51]

Not bad in FL either.

 

[Dannyjd]

Nice, perfect to get out there and start pulling those engines out

 

[alexd51]

The only problem is it's midnight here lol

 

[Dannyjd]

Yup, that will do it. Lol

 

[Seadoodoc]

I went through living Seadoo hell on Rave valves all summer. Green bellows .. upgrade to 352 valves. Blah blah. Even machined out my own billet caps. Still leaking and melting. Got so pissed I built block off plates to eliminate rave. And..that dont work .

 

[alexd51]

I went through living Seadoo hell on Rave valves all summer. Green bellows .. upgrade to 352 valves. Blah blah. Even machined out my own billet caps. Still leaking and melting. Got so pissed I built block off plates to eliminate rave. And..that dont work .

Im no expert but from all i have read you can't or shouldn't run your motor without them?
Are those green bellows superior from the red ones?

 

[Seadoodoc]

Green bellows are the upgrade from softer red material. Best bet is loose the spring loaded retainer and use air craft wire to fasten base and top. Thorough cleaning and checking for smooth operation a must. Several varation in valves exist. 350 351 352. Some have grooves and some dont. There is supposed to sub 40 thous tollerance in valve to cylinder tolerance. My experience is Rave valve housing wears out. I could go on for hour.. lol .. btw running no valve just leaves motor in " high exhaust port timming" no harm to motor, just terrible bottom end.

 

[alexd51]

Green bellows are the upgrade from softer red material. Best bet is loose the spring loaded retainer and use air craft wire to fasten base and top. Thorough cleaning and checking for smooth operation a must. Several varation in valves exist. 350 351 352. Some have grooves and some dont. There is supposed to sub 40 thous tollerance in valve to cylinder tolerance. My experience is Rave valve housing wears out. I could go on for hour.. lol .. btw running no valve just leaves motor in " high exhaust port timming" no harm to motor, just terrible bottom end.

So im supposed to have a retainer spring on the bottom of the bellows Like the one in the middle? I wonder what ever happened to all 4 of mine lol. And im missing 2 of the bellows they were just not there.
Thank God im going to be rebuilding. Do you care to elaborate on the air craft wire? Like thickness and stuff?
I have this store close by it's like a candy store for adults and i might find this wire there,way too complicated to describe because is a mix of everything.
http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/
And please go on with the info im learning about this topic all i can . One other cuestion ,does it matter i have 2 diferent sets of pistons? And what i mean is the hard part on top of the bellowswere the valve screws into.

 

[Seadoodoc]

Please hold! Will get some photos!,

 

[Seadoodoc]

Wont let me post photos on this,forum dang it. Greenhulk tapatalk no issue. Wth?

 

[alexd51]

Wont let me post photos on this,forum dang it. Greenhulk tapatalk no issue. Wth?

Don't worry about it. I found some examples of the wire0.032 and i think that kind and that thickness i think it will just cut thru the bellows. Im going to use the zip ties with them i was told they are reliable and cheaper.