Ill check it when I get home today and see. If no go ill pull the carb and try to clean it also ill probe drain the gas tank down and start again with some good clean stuff. As for spark they seam to be lighting up. Nothing big but a little blue flicker. Why does it push water only when it fires up and not when it’s cranking over? Oh and again thank you for all the direction, this site has made the difference between dumping the doo and trying to get it running.
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Starting issue 95 XP
- Thread starter club69
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When it is cranking it is firing slower than when it is running. That is why the starter stops cranking as it can't keep up with the running engine. More rpm's = more compression coming out the exhaust, which pushes out any water left in the exhaust path. Keep us posted.
Karl
Karl
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
I all ways thought that the wd40 flash point was closer to charcoal fluid or kerosine and that is why I did not allways have good results. I will look that up and report back with my findings. :cheers:
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
flash points are all in celsius. wd40 44* gasoline -40* starting fluid -49*. Karl If you took away the minus sign from the gasoline thin yes you could say that the flash point is close to wd40. I always thought that the flash point of wd40 was close to kerosine but I was not sure. If you would like some starting fluid with oil in it, it is out there. http://www.superkleendirect.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1006 :hurray::hurray:
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Ok, im about done. cant get the carb bolts to turn and ive pulled the fuel line from the seperator and when turning over it has no suction so im going with the carb is funked and needs off to clean. Ive foud a dealer who with check it out for a min of 40 bucks and charge me 80 bucks an hour to tune up. I see no other options.
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
Sory I did not read some of your post until today. you do have some sort of fuel problem. do you still have gray fuel lines. If so you need to replace them as they are defective. what I did 2 weeks ago may work for you. I have a 9.9 johnson that has not been started in about 2 years. It would not start by chokeing it I had to spray starting fluid in it and choke the crap out of it for some time before it would run off of choke you can spray oil in carb before starting fluid to add lubercation. choke and more choke may be the answer It does not work with all fuel isues so good luck. :cheers:
You could replace the fuel lines youself, if you measure the length and go to autozone and request the same size with a sample and add a few inches just in case you are short. Replace them one for one till you get it done.
Karl
Karl
I think im done. Ive got good gas, spark, and all the rest but no running even if it fires and dies teh plugs come out with oil on them. so since i cant get the carb bolts off to try and clean the gunk myself im headed to the dealer on sat. Hopefully thats all it is is none winterized gunky carbs. Thanks again for all the help. I made it allot farther to a fix without a dealer with all the help.
detonation....
Your pix on page one are classic pix of "detonation".....they should be smooth across the top. They are not. They look like BB's got caught in it and beat the hell out of the piston.
Detonation is caused from running to rich. To much oil, etc....
You look like your close to a new re-manafactured engine. Don't waste to much money at a shop. They'll let you keep bringing it back and back and back and back and back..........there is no end with them.
Google detonation.............
Your pix on page one are classic pix of "detonation".....they should be smooth across the top. They are not. They look like BB's got caught in it and beat the hell out of the piston.
Detonation is caused from running to rich. To much oil, etc....
You look like your close to a new re-manafactured engine. Don't waste to much money at a shop. They'll let you keep bringing it back and back and back and back and back..........there is no end with them.
Google detonation.............
Would a proper tune resolve detonation? Fuel-oil? Ive gone over just about everyting and i know from not properly winterizing it the carb is full of junk. when i bought it an dit didnt run two years ago t eshop tuned it and said its good now im sure thought yeah it will run ok for awhile but youll be back. Id spend 40-80 bucks for another 2 summers. Can they turn the oil down a bit? Id like to turn th eoil off long enought to get it to run then open add the oil back in. It seams the plug is wet with oil before it gets any gas and i also noticed the fuel line when cranking doesnt seam to have any suction or vacume on it? I could be making all this up in my head because i want it to run real bad. 
Ok does this make any since? I called the dealer guy back and he walks over the last few days of what ive done and claims before spending the 40 bucks or 300:ack: it may cost i should continue to clean the plugs and with fuel in the cylinder fire it up. He claims from sitting and cranking it over the motor has lots of oil in the bottum and its blowing out the plug when it does fire?????? He suggests i try to get it to fire, get it to fire try to burn off and or blow out this extra oil? Oh and not to pinch the oil lines to pause the flow of oil while it starts up?? Wouldnt it make more since to pull a plug, or some drain in the block to let this oil out and start fresh? Does the block have a drain like this?
Don't pinch the oil lines. It doesn't send that much oil into the engine any way when it is trying to start. Even with the condition of the pistions, it should start if it is getting fuel/air and spark, at the right time. There is no drain on the engine as such. Did you say the compression was good...better than 100psi? 150psi is ideal.
Looking and having good compression are two different things. You need to check the compression. If the compression is like 50 psi...it will never start, due to lack of being able to suck in fuel or compress the fuel to fire it in the combustion chamber, which forces the piston down the bore to exhaust than to suck in more fuel and repeat the action. The engine needs 2 revolutions or 2 strokes to complete the cycle to be able to run. Compression is very important.
Karl
Karl
Here is how to do it;
You'll need a compression tester. Go to Auto Zone. I think they sell for like $25.00. The compression gage, will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)Screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression gauge, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot and there is a problem. I hope this helps you.
You'll need a compression tester. Go to Auto Zone. I think they sell for like $25.00. The compression gage, will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)Screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression gauge, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot and there is a problem. I hope this helps you.
Ok shes done. After running her to check the compression and filing the gas tank then pulling a few gas lines off to drain any lingering old fuel shes broke. Full battery and while cranking what i thought was not for an extended time it became slow aall the sudden and spun???? hit the starter and the flywheel my term spins freely as if its no longer connected to the crankshaft. I will note the front tested at 125 psi and the back at 106. Id say my summer will be a dry one.
Compression that low means it needs some TLC. That's an old seadoo also. It might be worth rebuilding it, with pistons and rings with a hone job and some o rings and such. Installing a re-manufactured engine complete will set you back about $800.00. Look here for some ideas; " www.sbtonthenet.com "
Keep us posted so we can help you get it running.
Karl
Karl
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