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Starting issue 95 XP

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club69

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Ive got one. if the 95 xp is low on oil not empty but low will it keep the unit from starting? Ive put a new battery, new plugs, and im getting a clunk when i hit the starter. The only thing i havent done is fill the oil res.
 
First off the oil reservoir has nothing to do with the starting. It will beep to tell you it is low on oil. I would check the starter to see what the problem is. First the wireing...positive+ and than the ground-. If all is good pull the starter and look it over, it might be bad.

ScubaDoo
 
So even low on oil, with a new batt. and plugs it should crank over? When hitting th estat button should you get power to the spark plug? Ive pulled the plug wires off and hit the button while testing for 12volts at teh plug wires with no result.
 
Make sure the lanyard switch is on and is working. You should have spark at the plugs. Leave the plug caps on the spark plug and check it. You need a ground from the spark plugs to complete the circuit.

Karl
 
Ok, this gets better. Fuses are good, starter relay is good now ive pulled the starter and it’s good. So I moved to trying to turn the pump shaft on the back side of the motor and it’s locked up. So then I pulled the head/cover? Either way exposing the pistons and found them pretty crusty. This could be due to not properly winterizing last winter as the doo stopped running end of summer I felt due to low oil. So now I dabbed some oil around the rings and tapped lightly on the piston freeing it up now allowing them to move freely. So I plan to put the starter back, the "valve cover" back and see if she runs. I’m thinking maybe it ran low on oil and got hot or just sat all winter with no lube. Tonight will tell if she lives or dies. ( all this due to my buddy riding it, Now if he had listen to me and parked it asap when the oil light came on it may not have gotten hot and or broken in the first place.)

I added a few pics.
 

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Don't be quick to blame you "buddy" the light comes on to indicate it is low ...not out of oil. I should run for like 4 hours on "low oil light. The seadoo doesn't use much oil in the variable injector system. I believe the problem is not winterizing the seadoo peoperly...not the oil idiot light. I would use some marvel mystery oil Few Oz's and see if you can get some of the corrosion off the cylinder walls.

Karl

Karl
 
Hum, without blaming my buddy im back to no answer on why it died and wouldn’t restart end of summer. Story goes- it was running fine then the oil light came on so I say he’d straight to the dock. He goes and messes around on his way and ends up stranded it won’t start back up halfway back to the dock. Then it was parked and a weekend or two later I tried to fire it up and get it on the trailer with no luck so we swam it on and parked it in the lake garage. I’m not saying the lack of a full winterization was good on it but it had and issue leading up that I thought was low oil and my idiot buddy. Maybe it was a flook?
 
I wouldn't Blame you "buddy for the problem, The low oil light is just that. It doesn't mean it is out of oil...just that it is getting low. You could run it for almost 3-5 hrs depending on how fas you go. The variable flow oil injector uses very little oil. How often do you have to re-fill the injector tank ...2 times a season? I believe the problem is from not winterizing the seadoo properly at end of season. I would add Marvel mystery oil to coat the walls of the cylinders and install a new "o"ring on the head. Fire it up, and then take a compression test to see what condition the rings are in. The compression ideally should be 150psi per cylinder. The pictures don't show any scoring or seizing from the problem. Assemble and hope for the best. Keep us posted on you findings.

Karl
 
I’m crossing my fingers until tonight when I put it back and try to start it. What is marvel mystery oil and should I clean the piston tops? Yes the walls seamed clean the pistons are just covered in funk. Really it should at least turn over now with the pistons broken free? Bearings must be ok it the starter didn’t spin the crank freely so im hopeful.
 
The piston tops looked fine in the pictures. If you try to clean them all that crap will fall down around the piston walls and collect on the rings. So I would leave it. Marvel Mystery oil can be bought at walmarts or any auto parts store.( red can with black letters) It is great as a lubricant to free up frozen bearings and the such, and is enxspensive. It might smoke a little when it fires but it's just burning off when it is started.

Karl
 
Ok, so can this oil be mixed with seadoo oil? can it replace seadoo oil? or should i just use a little around the rings before putting it back together? And ill leave the funk on the piston i hadnt thought about it falling around the rings and maybe doing more harm than leaving it. Maybe i should change the gap on the plug to burn some of it off? Do we have a forum area with torque specs for the head cover bolts? Thanks for all te help as well, i now hav ea much better chance of saving her with all the info.
 
Ok now the BUDDY claim sit was low on fuel and the oil light was on when it stopped and wouldn’t restart. It did crank and turn over so the lock up would appear to be the lack of winterization and we won’t know until tonight.
 
The Marvel Mystery won't hurt anything. It is just to allow better lubrication so it won't seize up. Use the regular oil for everyday use. It will burn off as soon as it starts. The Head Screws should be torqued to 24N.m or 17lbf.ft Let know how you make out. We're here for you to get it running again. It sounds like you buddy just ran out of fuel, or it would have seized...make sure to full oil tank.


Karl
 
Ill report tonight or in the morning. Ill head to the dealer for some oil and walmart for MMO on the way home and hope it was just low on fuel. If so its a lucky day for me. I tested the saftey switch as far as plugged in it would try to crank or clunk and unplugged it did nothing but turn the gauges on.
 
Reports in and its not good. :ack: She now turns over but with the plugs in does not fire up. Two things to note one plugs out it sounds like a spinning wheel on a game show some what with htem in as well but not as bad adn plugs in im testing with a 12v light tester adn am getting nothing to the plug wire??? Is it poss. i need to prime the oil and fule lines? Also whith plugs in and cranking i worked teh throttle and it changed the tone as opening the t-body and closing it but never a fire up or kick.
 
you won't see 12 volts at the plugs. more like a couple of thousand. no amps though. won't light a test light. put a plug in and ground side of plug on top of motor. hit starter and look for spark jumping plug gap. or just hold plug in your hand and crank starter. if it has spark, you'll know. no spark? look for blown fuses on your mpem. most likely cause. then maybe the stator in the front of the motor. possible but not easy to work on with motor in hull.
 
you won't see 12 volts at the plugs. more like a couple of thousand. no amps though. won't light a test light. put a plug in and ground side of plug on top of motor. hit starter and look for spark jumping plug gap. or just hold plug in your hand and crank starter. if it has spark, you'll know. no spark? look for blown fuses on your mpem. most likely cause. then maybe the stator in the front of the motor. possible but not easy to work on with motor in hull.
sounds like someone is trying to send you to the electric chair. [or just hold plug in your hand and crank starter] :rofl:
 
correction I do have spark. I was testing the plug incorrectly and now see its turning over with spark. my next thought is fuel might not be getting in the cylinder either bad fuel pump? if it has one or gumed up carb?
 
I wouldn't test for spark with the plug in you hand! It will give you a huge Jolt. I would spray some wd-40 down the plug holes and see if it fires up in wd-40 Have both plugs in when you do this. It will fire for a couple seconds, until it burns off the wd-40. Wd-40 has lubrication in it so it won't do any harm. Look for the fuel separator and see what the fuel looks like in it. Dump it if it looks full of crap. It will fill up with the choke applied when it is cracking. If it does start on wd-40 is would be that the carbs might need cleaning. Or it just wasn't getting fuel past the separator you just cleaned. Keep us posted.

Karl
 
Status. could not get a start on wd-40 but with alittle fuel in the cylinder i did get it to start 2 seperate times spraying water out the back of the doo.(water from last fall??) I thought i was home free but nothing but turning over and thumping like it wants to start since. I did pull the seperater and yes it had funk in it so i cleand that. Not sure but i think i have to much crap in the cylinders now to start ie fuel oil wd-40 and so on. The plugs keep coming out with a black and clear fluid on them. Im sure at this point the lack of winterization is holding me back as the carbs are probably full of gunk. I guess now the question is do i pull the carbs to clean them or do i bite the bullet and take it to the dealer? Any last thoughts from everyone? :confused:
 
buy 2 new spark plugs and intall after you spin engine over for a few seconds without plugs. then try to restart without chokes or primer. if no start try to choke, or primer it a few times. if no start remove plugs and spin over again. reinstall plugs try to restart with starting fluid no choke or primer. if it tries to start repair carbs and fuel system. good luck Robin :)
 
Club69. Don't use starting fluid! it is made up of alcohol and will cause more problems than it is worth. It has no lubrication value at all. You can pull the plugs and place the spark plugs on the ground studs so you don't cause anymore electrical problems. Rotate he engine over to clear out all the extra fluid in the cylinders. You could put the plugs in the plug caps and with them grounded see a spark as it turns over. If you don't get a spark, you have an electrical problem. Let it set for a short while. Install 2 new plugs and it should fire up. The idea of wd-40 is to add a fuel that has a lubricant in it. Just a small squirt is needed...too much and it will be flooded. Straight gas isn't good unless it is premixed with oil, at a 40:1 ratio. Even if the carbs are full of gunk it should fire with new plugs and fuel(wd-40) in the cylinders.

Karl
 
It sounds like you all ready have plenty of lubercation as you have sprayed with wd40 and it should have been getting oil from injection pump. now as for wd40 it is crap for a starting fluid. starting fluid is highly combustable and is only to be used for starting you can not keep spraying into carb to keep engine runing or yes damage may hapen. this will allways show you a fuel problem if you have one. Try this with that wd40 bull poo starting fluid. and you will not always get the same result. Sory karl, I have just seen many times first hand where wd40 will not get the job done. :cheers:
 
Ok, ill hold on the starting fluid and the gas. Funny last night after i let it sit for and hour or so i hit the button and it kicked like fireing up and agin for the 3rd time spit a bunch of water out the back. How much water can it be holding? and is this water part of the issue? Yes it has spark i tested the new plugs again and have spark i think i just need to dry the area out.
 
Yes, let it dry out and see if it fires up. I think it might need the carbs cleaned. As for the water, that is why you should run anti-freeze in the seadoo if it is going to be stored below freezing. The engine will always hold water in different locations in the plumbing of the cooling system. Anti-freeze will mix with the water and keep it from having a freezing expansion problem with the water. Sum it up: The water spitting out the rear is normal when it turns over, it could be in the exhaust and the compression of the engine is pushing it out. If your spark is very week the starting fluid, because of the low flash point of alcohol will fire anyway, giving a false impression that the voltage is correct.(Alcohol will ignite from sparks of hitting 2 rocks together) WD-40 's flash point is close to gas/oil mix and also indicates if the spark is correct or close to the right amount of voltage to fire the ignition...If it doesn't fire it could be an electrical problem still, as it just doesn't have the correct voltage. Incorrect voltage under compression won't fire the plugs.(the presents of spark doesn't mean it is correct)

Karl
 
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