Speedometer repair

[ID62]

Hi, just a quick information for those who has trouble with there speedometer. Mine wasn't working but I had a good signal from the paddle-wheel. When you spin it you must have a signal between 5 and 8 Volts. But you have to power-up your boat, means the DESS key must be in. Also you've to check if you have 12 volts at the plus wire on your speedometer.
If this is OK then it might be the same problem then I had. The connecting bolts are made from brass. There isn't a good connecting between those and the PC-board from the speedometer. I had a kind of corrosion between the bolts and the contact pads on the PCB. I opened the speedometer and removed the corrosion. After this assemble the whole device again but don't mount the glass and the aluminum ring. First you have to connect the speedometer to your boat and power it up. The needle is moving to the 0-point when it gets the power. Then you have to adjust the needle. Once you did this, it's the time to close your speedometer with the glass and the ring. This is the shitty work on it, because you have to border crimp the aluminum ring. But it saves your money ;-)

BR
Ingo

 

[ID62]

adjustment at the speedometer

Hi, just a quick information for those who has trouble with there speedometer. Mine wasn't working but I had a good signal from the paddle-wheel. When you spin it you must have a signal between 5 and 8 Volts. But you have to power-up your boat, means the DESS key must be in. Also you've to check if you have 12 volts at the plus wire on your speedometer.
If this is OK then it might be the same problem then I had. The connecting bolts are made from brass. There isn't a good connecting between those and the PC-board from the speedometer. I had a kind of corrosion between the bolts and the contact pads on the PCB. I opened the speedometer and removed the corrosion. After this assemble the whole device again but don't mount the glass and the aluminum ring. First you have to connect the speedometer to your boat and power it up. The needle is moving to the 0-point when it gets the power. Then you have to adjust the needle. Once you did this, it's the time to close your speedometer with the glass and the ring. This is the shitty work on it, because you have to border crimp the aluminum ring. But it saves your money ;-)

BR
Ingo

Hi fellows,

just brief backup from the speedometer repair. Once you have the stuff together don’t install the speedometer with the holder. Just stick it in the belonging hole at the panel. In the next step you need a gps, so you are able to adjust the speedometer. There is a small trigger behind the device where you can adjust the shown speed. Drive your Seadoo and set the speed to a clear value. I did it with 40 and 50 km/h. Maintain this speed for the time where you turn the trigger for the adjustment. You can see the changes very easily. If you do this on a river, prior to the adjustment measure the drift in the river. Simply switch of your engine and drift with the river and read the speed from the gps. And take care you correct the gps speed in the right way. (e.g. river speed 5 km/h; gps speed 45 km/h; speedometer must be adjusted to 40 km/h)
Mine is now working more or less accurate.

If you have still questions, feel free and ask.

Greetings from Germany
Ingo

 

[ID62]

the calculation sample is of course, when you are driving downriver )

 

[cheappc]

Hi, just a quick information for those who has trouble with there speedometer. Mine wasn't working but I had a good signal from the paddle-wheel. When you spin it you must have a signal between 5 and 8 Volts. But you have to power-up your boat, means the DESS key must be in. Also you've to check if you have 12 volts at the plus wire on your speedometer.
If this is OK then it might be the same problem then I had. The connecting bolts are made from brass. There isn't a good connecting between those and the PC-board from the speedometer. I had a kind of corrosion between the bolts and the contact pads on the PCB. I opened the speedometer and removed the corrosion. After this assemble the whole device again but don't mount the glass and the aluminum ring. First you have to connect the speedometer to your boat and power it up. The needle is moving to the 0-point when it gets the power. Then you have to adjust the needle. Once you did this, it's the time to close your speedometer with the glass and the ring. This is the shitty work on it, because you have to border crimp the aluminum ring. But it saves your money ;-)

BR
Ingo

Thanks, wow your in Germany?, when did you buy your speedster?, where do you take out your boat?

 

[ID62]

hello

Wow yes I’m in Germany and wow again, just now I’m in Brazil..... Unfortunately I’m travelling quite often and it’s tricky to find the time for driving the Seadoo. I’m driving on the river Rhein near to Basel but it’s not a very boat friendly area. Beside this I share also a DG800 with a friend. This is a soaring plane with an engine. So I’m just finished my licence for driving the motor-boats on the domestic river and also the coastal licence (including the licence for sailing boats). This is the old world and you must have this stuff. I bought the Seadoo in Germany but it seams initially it comes from Florida and it’s a 2003 model. I made some changes on it and I will post them soon. But it’s really a fun machine and everybody who tried it had a big smile on his face. I also found a solution for the gas spring at the storage hatch. It seams the gas spring is too short and therefore the storage hatch can’t be kept open in a save way. I extended it and now it’s working. Of course you can use a stronger gas spring but I have my doubt if nothing get broken due to this stronger gas spring. I will post some pictures very soon but for this I must be back in Germany ;-)

BR
Ingo

 

[cheappc]

Ok Great! Would love to see the pictures!

Ill Google Rhein River near Basel just to see how the water is!

 

[cheappc]

Wow!

I found a youtube of the river, amazing views of the castles along the way! would love to see your seadoo on here!! oh wow!

[video=youtube;U7E-2raWopo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7E-2raWopo[/video]

 

[twinpartners]

I know this thread is a little old, but it saved me a ton of money! I took the speedo apart and decided to give it a try. Hey, worst case I have to buy a new one anyway. Amazing! The connecting bolts actually sit right on the connection on the inside of the speedo circuit board. I pulled out some steel wool and cleaned off all of the connections on the board and the thru-bolts. I live in Florida on the coast, so we have a lot of salt in the air. Put it all back together and to my amazement...my speedo is working again. This after testing the paddle wheel and making sure I got between 5 - 8 when I turned it a 1/8 or so turn. Was about 2 seconds away from buying a new one. Heck...now I can charge people to fix theirs! I bet 90% of all speedos are because of the corrosion on the internal connectors. Only problem I have (it was the first time ever trying this) was getting the speedo apart without leaving some scratches. But, hey...I can live with that. Vielen Dank Ingo!!!!

 

[ID62]

Congratulation for the repair. So if the description helped you than it was worth to write it. I just working on the installation of a fuel flow manager into the cockpit. It’s not easy but it seems that I have almost done it.
Last time I’ve changed the oil sensor also because mine had the fault to beep when I started the engine. After installing the new version of this oil pressure sensor the problem was solved.
If you have further questions, just ask.
Best Regards
Ingo

 

[twinpartners]

I'm so glad you posted this thread. The new speedo's are getting very expensive. I searched everywhere and found many threads where people were having problems, but no where did anyone explain a fix like you did. Its well worth the time to try out your fix first before buying a new one or sending it off to repair. My only problem was getting that aluminum ring off without a few small dings thanks to my needle nose pliers. I should have been a little more careful because the dings are visible when I put it back in. Wish I could find a new one!

My other problem is fixed to. A lot of threads about problems with the fuel gauge everywhere. The older ones have a fix, but these newer ones don't (mine is a '04). Most of the time its the fuel sender not sending correctly. I jumped the pink wires and my fuel gauge would not move. Funny thing is that after the speedo fix, I took the fuel pump housing out and tested it. It was sending the correct ohms down the pipe. So, I took my fuel gauge out and took it apart the same way as your write up for the speedo. I cleaned the circuit board everywhere and used steel wool to clean the little brass pins where the connector clicks into the back. After putting everything back together...my fuel gauge is now working to! So, your write up gave me the little push to try that too. I was much more careful with the aluminum ring on the fuel gauge and you can't tell I ever had it apart.

Next is to install a Lowrance GPS/Fishfinder. See a lot of write ups where the tranducer is epoxied to the floor of the boat instead of installing it to the back of the boat and drilling holes in it. Where did you mount your tranducer or do you have GPS only (no sonar)?

Thx David

 

[ID62]

I’ve installed an Elite 4 device which works perfect. Transducer shoots thru the hull. Just be sure that you use enough epoxy! There shouldn’t be any air-bubble in the epoxy otherwise the signal wouldn’t be correct. So at this place my depth sounder and fish finder is working properly even when I’m driving with higher speeds. In my opinion this is the only good and perfect place at the 150 because it’s very well levelled at this place.
Currently I’m installing a fuel flow manager from FARIA. The only tricky thing is to get it fixed into the dashboard.
Just search for “ingo” then you find a couple of my post with some more or less useful hint’s.

Best Regards
Ingo

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?52173-new-SeaDoo-user-from-Germany&highlight=germany